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Preowned things to look out for?

Discussion in 'Model S' started by Naonak, Jan 8, 2016.

  1. Naonak

    Naonak Member

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    I can't seem to find a definitive thread on what to watch out for when buying a used Tesla Model S. For example, if I am buying a used 2014 or 2015, I'm pretty in pretty good shape as far as problems. However, if I look into earlier models, especially 2012s, I would imagine there are lots of things that I would need to be aware of as defects (either correctable or not) - but I haven't any any place that lists what I should check.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?
     
  2. AmpedRealtor

    AmpedRealtor Active Member

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    If you follow these forums, 2014 and 2015 Model S cars share some of the same problems that also affected 2012 and 2013 vehicles: Water and air intrusion, pano roof noises, headlight and tail light condensation, exterior fit and finish, battery replacements, drive unit replacements (front and rear), etc. There is nothing in a 2012 or 2013 build that would be classified as a "defect" that would not also be present on a 2014 or 2015 build. At least a 2012 or 2013 build would have had time for issues to be vetted and addressed, and any defective items would have been replaced.

    My Model S had most issues crop up early in the ownership experience. I've had it now for 2 ½ years and I haven't had any real issues in at least the 12-18 months.
     
  3. Naonak

    Naonak Member

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    Thanks Amped, that is good to hear. I didn't know if there were any significant changes due to problems encountered in earlier years than later years! I appreciate the input!
     
  4. Enadler

    Enadler Member

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    The biggest difference are the hardware features that have been added or updated as time has progressed. Obviously the biggest being the AP hardware added at the end of 2014, however there have been many tweaks along the way. i believe there is a wiki that keeps track of all the changes that have been made. FWIW I had an early 2013 build which i loved. It had some minor issues which were all fixed under warranty. I traded it in recently in order to take advantage of the Dual Motors and AP upgrade.
     
  5. whitecotton

    whitecotton Member

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    Buying my 2013 non cpo was definitely a learning experience for me. It had a fender well missing and cost $600 to replace, I just found out the rear tire will need replacing because it had been wearing on the inside that I didn't see. The point of my story is to pay close attention to detail and prepare to pay more than you would expect for every problem you identify. Let me know if I can help in any way? Happy ownership!
     
  6. CLLACAB

    CLLACAB Member

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    As Whitecotton said, it is important to spend a considerable amount of time inspecting the vehicle before you accept delivery. I identified a number of items that I wanted corrected. If they did not agree, I was prepared to walk away from the car. Fortunately Tesla agreed to take care of everything. I should have it back sometime next week. I've been told by my technician that they are qc'ing the car in detail to make sure I am totally satisfied with the car.
     
  7. whitecotton

    whitecotton Member

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    I sadly wasn't as lucky as cllacab in having a seller that was willing to help. Unfortunately I basically purchased the car as is, mainly because my excitement to finally be an owner allowed me to get ahead of myself. If I regret anything it is not preparing myself to walk away for the deal. Without a doubt my Model S was the best purchase of my life :) I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
     
  8. Naonak

    Naonak Member

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    Thanks for the tips, guys! I appreciate it. I will be headed out to look at the car next week before forking over the rest of the cash. I plan on getting a P90D in the next 6 - 9 months, but wanted to test the waters with a cheaper car before plunking down so much for a new one. Maybe by then I can get a good deal on a CPO P85D with Autopilot, too... we'll see.

    CLLACAB, when you say spend time inspecting the vehicle, is there specific points I want to look for, or just a general inspection. It's not like popping the frunk is going to determine much. :)
     
  9. CLLACAB

    CLLACAB Member

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    Here are some of the things I looked at:
    -exterior: there was damage to the nose one, the spoiler had a scrape, the chrome splitter at the back was cracked and the chrome trim ring around the nose cone had cracked. I also looked at the inside tread of the rear tires and asked to see the alignment spec. The rear camber was in the red. There were also some paint scratches and some door dings they agreed to repair. The hood was not aligned correctly.
    -battery: I had them charge the battery to 100% so I could know how much loss occurred. I also asked them to tell me which series battery was on the car as I did not want an "A" series as they are know to charge slightly slower at the SC's.
    Bottom line- inspect the car carefully in natural light. My local center in Van Nuys has been working to correct everything. They have been great to work with.
     
  10. Naonak

    Naonak Member

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    Do you happen to have a link to more information on the A series vs B series battery? How can you tell what series it is?
     
  11. Roadrunner13

    Roadrunner13 Member

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    This is a picture of the Battery sticker, E-Version on a P85D.
    I was lucky and took it while the car was on a lift.
    In theory, you're suppose to be able to get a shot at this label from the front wheel well on the passenger side if you turn your wheels all the way to the...left (I think).

    Battery Pack Version.JPG
     
  12. Naonak

    Naonak Member

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    What am I looking at on that picture for battery series to tell if it's an A or B? Are there more series than A and B?
     
  13. Roadrunner13

    Roadrunner13 Member

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    Yes, mine is an E-Version: 1031043-00-E
    But all except A-version charge at the top/nominal speed.
    So only early cars have the A-version...like the one you are looking at could be.
     

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