I've looked at Kranzel but struggle with cost comparison. Is there a secret place to get them for less?
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Pressure Washer Choice
- Thread starter DV_T3SLA
- Start date
I've looked at Kranzel but struggle with cost comparison. Is there a secret place to get them for less?
+1. All the electric pressure washers mentioned will produce sufficient foam. But if you want gas like foam from an electric. GPM is important...which is where the kranzle stands out. A cheaper alternative that has decent specs is the comet.
abwmma
Member
Hi, I have been using a foam cannon with my electric Karcher which stopped working since last week.So I'm thinking to replace with Sun Joe SPX2000. Where do I get the connect adapter for my existing cannon? Or do I have to replace with a new foam cannon made by Sun Joe $24 too? Thanks in advance.
MacGreiner
5YJ
Just be careful in Winter. I've cracked two cast pump housings from trapped water freezing within the housing. Not repairable.
What is a DI and what does it do?
What is a DI and what does it do?
Deionized water. It uses a resin to remove much/all of the TDS (total dissolved solids). This is basically all the salts and minerals in water. Doing this makes the water pure (more pure, there might still be some organic material and bacteria and stuff), this is useful in chemistry if you're trying to make a solution and need pure water to start with. For us it means it'll dry clear and you won't have water spots. Washing glassware in a lab and letting it air dry vs washing it at home and letting it air dry is amazing. It comes out crystal clear vs cloudy and with spots at home. The resin does get used up depending how hard (how much TDS you have) your water is so it could get expensive if you're washing weekly... but if it's a good system and really removes everything then it could be amazing having pure clear water that dries completely clear.
Erayd8
Member
Is this basically the same as using "Soft Water" from a water softener? Just asking because I'm looking to get a pressure washer as well, and plan on using soft water for the entire process.
I don't think so, water softeners usually use sodium to soften the water... I think there is still some ion exchange going on but I think it's replacing most the minerals with sodium ions. I haven't used soft water so I'm not certain if they tend to still leave a film or cloudy residue or not...
(Also, if you have a whole house water softener, make sure that includes your hose connections, it might not since most people wouldn't want to spend money/energy on making hose water soft
)
Erayd8
Member
I don't think so, water softeners usually use sodium to soften the water... I think there is still some ion exchange going on but I think it's replacing most the minerals with sodium ions. I haven't used soft water so I'm not certain if they tend to still leave a film or cloudy residue or not...
(Also, if you have a whole house water softener, make sure that includes your hose connections, it might not since most people wouldn't want to spend money/energy on making hose water soft
No worries. I have two faucet outlets on the front of the house. One for soft and the other for hard. Here in San Antonio our water is really hard. I always wash the car with soft water. Still undecided on the pressure washer though. I'll probably just pick one up from Home Depot and if it does not perform how I want it to for Foam Blasting, I'll just take it back. I have access to a Gas pwd one as well, but that thing is really loud and truly overkill for washing a car. I want something small, lightweight, that really just puts out a good amount of foam to coat the car, before washing it off.
I'm in Canada and picked up Powerplay Spyder from Costco, its an electric pressure washer at 2030 psi. I got this because if I have issues down the road, Costco offers great service. If I was in US, I would buy a Sunjoe on sale from amazon.com with similar specs.
I haven't had my model 3 for more than a month yet so it's not dirty enough to use my pressure washer but I have it used no problem detailing several other cars already. The rated PSI is fine for washing cars (do not use 0 degree nozzle, that will damage most things).
My current wash method:
I'm doing weekly wash with my 3. I park it in the driveway, rinse it with a garden hose, drive it back into my garage and do an one bucket rinseless wash. Next wash will be one month so I will bring out my wheel bucket to wash the tires and wheels as well then repeat the same method. When weather no longer permits weekly wash, my 3 will have more dirt caked on which I think is the ideal scenario to rinse with my pressure washer.
I haven't had my model 3 for more than a month yet so it's not dirty enough to use my pressure washer but I have it used no problem detailing several other cars already. The rated PSI is fine for washing cars (do not use 0 degree nozzle, that will damage most things).
My current wash method:
I'm doing weekly wash with my 3. I park it in the driveway, rinse it with a garden hose, drive it back into my garage and do an one bucket rinseless wash. Next wash will be one month so I will bring out my wheel bucket to wash the tires and wheels as well then repeat the same method. When weather no longer permits weekly wash, my 3 will have more dirt caked on which I think is the ideal scenario to rinse with my pressure washer.
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SomeJoe7777
Marginally-Known Member
No, it's not the same process.
Home water softeners use the ion exchange method. The dissolved solids that are the problem are calcium and magnesium salts (calcium bicarbonate, calcium sulfate, calcium chloride, magnesium bicarbonate, magnesium sulfate, and magnesium chloride) -- these leave the water spots. The ion exchange method exchanges the calcium and magnesium ions for sodium ions, resulting in the softened water containing sodium bicarbonate, sodium chloride, and sodium sulfate. The sodium compounds do not interfere with detergents/surfactants, so the cleaning power is increased and there is no formation of stearates (soap scum), no buildup of lime scale in pipes, and less galvanic corrosion. However, the total dissolved solids (TDS) remains the same, so softened water will still leave water spots. (These water spots will be a lot easier to remove than calcium/magnesium spots, but will still be there).
Home water softener ion exchange resin can be recharged by pumping a high-sodium content brine through it to flush out the captured calcium and magnesium ions and replace them with new sodium. The resulting waste is flushed to the sewer.
DI water exchangers use the precipitation method (also called the lime softening method). Calcium hydroxide is added to the water to raise the pH, causing the calcium and magnesium salts to precipitate out. The precipitate is then filtered. This method lowers the total dissolved solids (TDS) so that no water spots can form. The DI resin bed cannot be easily recharged because the precipitate is trapped inside.
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
My summertime routine is that if it's just slightly dirty I just spray it down with waterless wash mix and wipe it off. If it gets dirtier than that, or in the wintertime, I spray it down with the pressure washer to get all the loose dirt off, then I do the same waterless wash routine. So far it seems to be holding up pretty good doing this.
I am ceramic coated and have seen people claim they can just rinse the car with a hose and dry it with a leaf blower but that is not my experience at all... you will still have to touch the car to get it clean even if it is coated.
I used to do the same and it works very well. I have a pressurized pump sprayer with a wand to do my rinseless washes.
With a garden hose and a garage now I find it less setup now to pull out the hose. I can also rinse down the wheel wells and flush out the roof panel gaps if there is debris.
Price isn’t for everyone. Again you can get by with the cheaper washers just fine.
But the Kränzle’s build quality is fantastic which you can feel and hear when using. Plus the advertised specs match the output in real life...where as the cheaper washers don’t actually output what’s advertised when tested. I’m not aware of any place to get it at a discount. A cheaper mid grade alternative that has tested similar output is the Comet. But that’s not as portable as the Kränzle.
+1 on the SunJoe SPX3000. I've owned mine since 2015, and haven't had any issues other than the original Garden Hose Adapter was made out of plastic (now metal) and eventually wouldn't hold a seal and would fall off.
I use 40% nozzle - initial run to take off dust and debris, hit it with a Chemical Guys Solution and a Foam Cannon, and then do another pass by hand using microfiber mitts and a two bucket solution, doing a single panel per mitt side before cleaning. Rinse. Hit the wheels with a Chemical Guys wheel cleaner, and wheel brush, and then Rinse. Use a large microfiber drying towel. Here is a brief video describing the two bucket solution: How To: The Two-Bucket Wash Method
Once a season, I'll do another pass with a Chemical Guys wax and applicator, and then buff off with microfiber towels. If I'm trying to get it up to detail quality, Chemical guys also have a finishing and detailing solution that adds an impressive shine and anti-static properties which they claim reduces dust buildup. I carry this bottle around if I need to remove bird droppings, tar, etc. I also use it to clean off the interior of the door jams.
Chemical Guys have got a good set of products for interior work as well, which add UV protection and do a great job cleaning. I recently picked up their waffle towel for glasswork, and it does a decent job.
I use 40% nozzle - initial run to take off dust and debris, hit it with a Chemical Guys Solution and a Foam Cannon, and then do another pass by hand using microfiber mitts and a two bucket solution, doing a single panel per mitt side before cleaning. Rinse. Hit the wheels with a Chemical Guys wheel cleaner, and wheel brush, and then Rinse. Use a large microfiber drying towel. Here is a brief video describing the two bucket solution: How To: The Two-Bucket Wash Method
Once a season, I'll do another pass with a Chemical Guys wax and applicator, and then buff off with microfiber towels. If I'm trying to get it up to detail quality, Chemical guys also have a finishing and detailing solution that adds an impressive shine and anti-static properties which they claim reduces dust buildup. I carry this bottle around if I need to remove bird droppings, tar, etc. I also use it to clean off the interior of the door jams.
Chemical Guys have got a good set of products for interior work as well, which add UV protection and do a great job cleaning. I recently picked up their waffle towel for glasswork, and it does a decent job.
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Luudcrs
Member
Sidebar...I noticed some posts about a DI spotless solution. I highly recommend the below unit for as a cheap(er) solution. Got it a couple months ago and about 4 washes already and working great. I use it only for final rinse to save the resin. My car is wrapped in matte vinyl so any spots is very noticeable. This solved it!
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Deionized-Spot-Free-Rinse/dp/B07H8MQTMD
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Deionized-Spot-Free-Rinse/dp/B07H8MQTMD
abwmma
Member
Bill Foster
I'm going home!
I get that people here will only use their pressure washers to clean their car.
I’m of the type that if I’m gonna spend xx on a pressure washer I’m good with spending xxx if it allows me to clean my sidewalk, do my house, do my fence.... ect.
I hate buying some lower grade tool and then it doesn’t work when I really need it to. Prob why my toolbox is filled with all snap on a matco
