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Pretty stoked about this powered frunk

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I had the Hansshow kit in my X and everything was working fine. Then, the 12V battery died and a Tesla ranger came to replace it. After the replacement, the struts on the HansShow kit wouldn't move. All of the LEDs lit up and the latch retracted and the speaker beeped but it wouldn't move. I tried resetting it and checked everything and told the Tesla Ranger I'd take care of it since it had nothing to do with the battery. It took me 2 days to get a response from HansShow on WhatsApp and they even missed scheduled debugging sessions. Finally, I got ahold of someone and he suggested checking the ground (which had never been disconnected since my original install). It seemed tight but I went ahead and loosened it and tightened it again and it instantly fixed the problem and it worked perfectly after that. It might be something to check.
 
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I just received my TO V4 Automatic Frunk and am going to install soon. For those those that have the V4, can you elaborate what extra steps are needed to install the loop sensor if possible?

Thanks in advance!
Installation is same as V3. Only difference is an extra plug that goes into the frunk latch (see photo).
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I finished installing mine today and am loving it so far. Used it about 5 times in the last 2 days, which is the same amount of times I've used it since owning the car in June.

I'm impressed with TO's customer service. To make a long story short, I needed help getting it to work and reached out to them via WhatsApp late night on New Year's eve. I got in touch with them in Hong Kong within 5 minutes.

We communicated via chat and video recordings. He walked me through the install, step by step and got it all sorted out. It turns out I didn't activate the spring correctly and also bent some pins while connecting power to the struts preventing the struts from powering up.

The struts are definitely the hardest part of the install, in particular the driver side. You need extra skinny forearms to get in there.

I can confirm the software bug where the auto frunk gets out of sync when the car goes to sleep while the hood is open. Raymond said that the car sends a signal tricking the kit to think the frunk is closed. They are working on solving it.
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My forearms are not skinny, but I had no problem with the driver's side strut. I popped out the pin in the plastic cover, flexed it up, and reached under it with my left forearm. Once you loosen the strut pin with the strut still attached, you can easily spin the pin out. The trick is to make sure the hood isn't putting any weight on the strut.

The best place for the motor and control unit wasn't obvious to me. I'm happy with the locations I chose in the pics below. The pic of motor is facing the bumper with the motor attached to the bar behind the bumper. The large zip ties (not the ones in the kit) route under the foam on the front of this brace. There are another pair of zip ties on the top and bottom to prevent the two large ones from spreading apart. For the control unit mount, I had to tighten the large bolts on each side a tiny bit - the flats of the bolts need to face the control box for it to fit there. There is the included 3M foam under both the control unit and motor.

One more thing. The default speed for opening and closing is slower than the youtube videos I saw. You press and hold the button until it cycles 1, 2, ... 6 beeps and release for the fastest speed. The number of beeps is the speed; 4 is the default. Very happy with my TO gen 4 kit so far.
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Anyone know what's the difference between TeslaOffer frunk kit vs. SmarTesla frunk kit?

By the way, it seems that the people selling these are a 1-man crew. So are they just buying these kits wholesale from China and then reselling/rebranding it?
 
Anyone know what's the difference between TeslaOffer frunk kit vs. SmarTesla frunk kit?

By the way, it seems that the people selling these are a 1-man crew. So are they just buying these kits wholesale from China and then reselling/rebranding it?

I have the smart tesla kit, mostly the same, but struts are a different design not better or worse. However, the brackets that attach to the body are different, I so far have seen 3 different types, mine, at least on my driver's side is giving me a problem, I can't get the hood flush on the driver's side.

I am working with their us contact and their support in China. They are a small operation and if it were my guess and as you mentioned just purchasing wholesale from one of the other groups.
 
I'm a bit OCD when it comes to cable management so I took some time to get them routed closest to OEM as possible. Below is a diagram on how I routed the cables of the Tesla Offer Electric Frunk (MARK 4.0), hope it provides some ideas. My way is by no means the right way!
  • The Latch motor is tucked away behind the factory body frame/panel and zip-tied down in the area shown.
  • The main control box is held in place with the 3M double side tape provided. I cut up the large pieces to built a higher platform so it made more contact areas both on the black brace and control box. Others also slip a zip tie around and under the black brace to give it extra security, but the 3M tape holds the control box in place pretty well. I may consider using velcro in the future for ease of accessing the SD slot for firmware updates.
  • I followed and zip tied the cables to the existing OEM cables as much as I can.
  • The ground cable was pretty long, so I looped it up and zip tied it to an OEM cable hold right above the buzzer.
  • I routed the power cable below the black brace, around the 12V battery, and up the backside.
  • The BLUE connector cable is pretty long and is routed together with the LATCH connector.
Hope this helps and good luck on your install! :)

TO Frunk.JPG


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Just a heads-up on the Latch Motor placement (we have the TO Mk4):

The wheel well fabric cover on the front driver’s side of our 6/20 MY has slits in it so it looks like water & debris (likely from my power washer o_O) shoot right into the area where they suggest putting the Latch Motor, so I positioned it just offset from the latch and tucked toward the front bumper, similar to @MY-Y
 
Also, similar to other posters, our hood is now misaligned about 1/8” toward the passenger side and 1/8” lower on the passenger side as well. It seems like when I was tightening the mounting plate that it wasn’t very flush to any of the sides and might be slightly lower than the driver side.
The misalignment was much more severe (>1/4”) before I put the Frunk tub back in, so I may play with the bump stops to see if that helps. We have a SC appointment in a couple of weeks as the last resort to have the hood repositioned, hoping I don’t have to pay for that!
 
Just a heads-up on the Latch Motor placement (we have the TO Mk4):

The wheel well fabric cover on the front driver’s side of our 6/20 MY has slits in it so it looks like water & debris (likely from my power washer o_O) shoot right into the area where they suggest putting the Latch Motor, so I positioned it just offset from the latch and tucked toward the front bumper, similar to @MY-Y
76617438-2C5D-471E-B883-4CF78F65B6B3.jpeg