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Preventive eMMC replacement on MCU1
- Thread starter widodh
- Start date
Tyger
Member
39 pages later, finally up to date.
@Slexs instead of using a lower voltage is it not easyer to find a reset line and keep the board from booting?
@Krash do you have a source for the tegra board not being default?
Coming from the electronics industry companies will ask manufacturers to create a custom version of something for there product.
Usually this means not mounting all parts on the board to disable functionality they do not use.
@Slexs instead of using a lower voltage is it not easyer to find a reset line and keep the board from booting?
@Krash do you have a source for the tegra board not being default?
Coming from the electronics industry companies will ask manufacturers to create a custom version of something for there product.
Usually this means not mounting all parts on the board to disable functionality they do not use.
Yes we recently had a car which had scheduled charging, and the car was stuck in non charge mode, It would not charge 240 or supercharge. I suspect chademo would also not start... It actually said waiting for scheduled start when at the supercharger. After pulling the fuse, the car started charging 240 also. Will test more, this may be a solution.
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@martinwinlow, There are reports that the eMMC dying prevents both and separately charging. More often the reports seem to say its home charging that's affected, not supercharging. And we have speculated and it looks like home charging interruptions/unable to charge are because Scheduled Charging (anywhere) was enable/setup. Best guess is that Scheduled Charging can't charge because the car/eMMC has lost its schedule or clock and now does not know when its supposed to charge, so it doesn't charge - an worse, won't let you manually charge.
Its been recommended that if you suspect your eMMC is dying to immediately turn off Scheduled Charging, and PIN to Drive. If your screen goes out/black, you can't enter the PIN. And you can't use the App, because the car stops communicating with the app.
Did EV-Fixme or I answer your question?
Its been recommended that if you suspect your eMMC is dying to immediately turn off Scheduled Charging, and PIN to Drive. If your screen goes out/black, you can't enter the PIN. And you can't use the App, because the car stops communicating with the app.
Did EV-Fixme or I answer your question?
@ EV-Fixme and Akikiki; "Did EV-Fixme or I answer your question?" Well, sort of! I'm pretty sure I had scheduled charging turned off when my MMU failed (I have tried re-booting it a few times since on the off-chance that it might work long enough for me to change my 'Charge to' setting to max - it is currently stuck at 110 miles - but to no avail). Interestingly, it will charge from 240VAC but only at 2A but I have not tried it during my usual scheduled charging window (0000 - 0700 hrs GMT). I will do so tonight to see if it behaves any differently.
Meanwhile, the only rapid charger on the island (an AC/CHAdeMO/CCS unit) is not working and unlikely to be repaired for a long time yet with all that is going on (they were pretty reluctant to come out to the island to repair it before the pox descended!).
Hopefully, if my Model S charges at all from 240VAC this means it may well work on a DC charger. I hope so or getting it to the service centre in Edinburgh (Scotland) will probably involve a recovery truck. I won't be going anywhere until the pox lockdown is lifted but I'll post an update in due course.
Meanwhile, the trunk got stuck closed the other day. So I'm busy trying to sort that out, too. Related to the MMU, maybe? I've had the Hella actuator off and it appears to work normally with 12V applied to the motor directly, forwards and backwards, pulling about 2.3A.
Thanks for your input.
MW
Meanwhile, the only rapid charger on the island (an AC/CHAdeMO/CCS unit) is not working and unlikely to be repaired for a long time yet with all that is going on (they were pretty reluctant to come out to the island to repair it before the pox descended!).
Hopefully, if my Model S charges at all from 240VAC this means it may well work on a DC charger. I hope so or getting it to the service centre in Edinburgh (Scotland) will probably involve a recovery truck. I won't be going anywhere until the pox lockdown is lifted but I'll post an update in due course.
Meanwhile, the trunk got stuck closed the other day. So I'm busy trying to sort that out, too. Related to the MMU, maybe? I've had the Hella actuator off and it appears to work normally with 12V applied to the motor directly, forwards and backwards, pulling about 2.3A.
Thanks for your input.
MW
Tyger
Member
Its all about the detailswe have a single post with all the infoConsolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) (Black Center Screen)
110 mile limit is a different issue. We have seen a few cars that stop charging way before it's truly full. All those cars charged fine after eMMC was replaced. We have not identified what causes this lower limit yet. In fact one of the cars got even less max range after a couple charges while bad eMMC was still in car, while the owner was on the way to our appointment.
Not sure on the stuck trunk condition. Are you having low 12V also?
Also please let us know if recovery is successful. We have noticed that multiple reboots after it has fail tends to have a lower chance of recovering the certificate.
You can't just swap the MCU, you have to get the replacement re-programmed for your car. (Which Tesla won't do for you.)
Replacing the emmc does not cost much more than 800 USD, and the replacment emmc is better quality
Tyger
Member
Oh, if you find someone to configure that for you you won't lose the radio. You'd definitely have them upgrade that too.
dark cloud
Active Member
Even if this was possible you are still getting an older eMMC with anybody's guess how many writes on it. What if it lasted 3 months and it died too?
If you want no down time, I believe Tony might still do a one-day turnaround, if you want to pay him the overtime rate.
dgpcolorado
high altitude member
Doesn't replacing MCU1 with MCU2 also require replacing the IC? Thought I'd read that somewhere.
Yes, you'd need the IC2 as well from the same donor from which you received the MCU2. I didn't think this was the case a year ago since the IC1 has its own CPU and doesn't care what MCU is connected. As it turns out, the IC is as much the limit if not more, so even if you could make MCU2 and IC1 work together, you wouldn't want to.
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