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"Proactive" 12v battery replacement - good idea or overkill?

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He also mentioned that they would be updating the battery to the Lithium ion battery (he sad LED battery, but I think he meant Li-on, or maybe I misheard him). Will update back next week when I have it installed, but I didn’t realize that they were installing lithium batteries now.

Don't tease us. If that's the case I'd consider a replacement if I ever need mobile service to come out for something else. Significantly cheaper (like x3) than something like OHMMU without any of technical issues. Call him now I don't have the patience to wait til next week!
 
He also mentioned that they would be updating the battery to the Lithium ion battery (he sad LED battery, but I think he meant Li-on, or maybe I misheard him). Will update back next week when I have it installed, but I didn’t realize that they were installing lithium batteries now.

Not to be a downer, but I’m guessing the technician was implying “… sometime in the future. Maybe.” instead of at this service appointment.

If it works out for you, that’d be amazing! But don’t be heartbroken if it’s just a “normal” 12V battery. That’s much more likely.
 
Not to be a downer, but I’m guessing the technician was implying “… sometime in the future. Maybe.” instead of at this service appointment.

If it works out for you, that’d be amazing! But don’t be heartbroken if it’s just a “normal” 12V battery. That’s much more likely.

Not to be a double downer, but for all the people who got the old headlights instead of matrix...have you checked what kind of 12v battery you received?
 
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My car is at the 2 year mark, and since I am planning a trip to AZ next month, I decided to go ahead and schedule a mobile service appointment for a proactive battery replacement. Got a call from the service advisor confirming that I wanted the replacement, since they didn’t see any errors. I confirmed, and the appointment is set for next week. Cost before tax will be about $117.

He also mentioned that they would be updating the battery to the Lithium ion battery (he sad LED battery, but I think he meant Li-on, or maybe I misheard him). Will update back next week when I have it installed, but I didn’t realize that they were installing lithium batteries now.
The lithium ion batteries are a different voltage and the upstream is a bit different too, so I really doubt you will get that but I guess you will see.
 
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My car is at the 2 year mark, and since I am planning a trip to AZ next month, I decided to go ahead and schedule a mobile service appointment for a proactive battery replacement. Got a call from the service advisor confirming that I wanted the replacement, since they didn’t see any errors. I confirmed, and the appointment is set for next week. Cost before tax will be about $117.

He also mentioned that they would be updating the battery to the Lithium ion battery (he sad LED battery, but I think he meant Li-on, or maybe I misheard him). Will update back next week when I have it installed, but I didn’t realize that they were installing lithium batteries now.
Haven't heard that one. The Lion used on later cars has a different connector. I'm sending a note to service since I have work coming to see if one will be offered in the future. (Just looked at the parts catalog - nothing new there)
 
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My car is at the 2 year mark, and since I am planning a trip to AZ next month, I decided to go ahead and schedule a mobile service appointment for a proactive battery replacement. Got a call from the service advisor confirming that I wanted the replacement, since they didn’t see any errors. I confirmed, and the appointment is set for next week. Cost before tax will be about $117.

He also mentioned that they would be updating the battery to the Lithium ion battery (he sad LED battery, but I think he meant Li-on, or maybe I misheard him). Will update back next week when I have it installed, but I didn’t realize that they were installing lithium batteries now.
I think you mis-understood him. The tech didn't say "LED Battery" he said "Lead Battery" as in Lead Acid.
 
Just got my invoice estimate, and it looks like it’s the lead-acid battery. I guess Smatthew was correct in his assessment.

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My car is at the 2 year mark, and since I am planning a trip to AZ next month, I decided to go ahead and schedule a mobile service appointment for a proactive battery replacement. Got a call from the service advisor confirming that I wanted the replacement, since they didn’t see any errors. I confirmed, and the appointment is set for next week. Cost before tax will be about $117.

He also mentioned that they would be updating the battery to the Lithium ion battery (he sad LED battery, but I think he meant Li-on, or maybe I misheard him). Will update back next week when I have it installed, but I didn’t realize that they were installing lithium batteries now.
This will be good news. I wonder the vehicle will need an firmware update so the computer knows there's a lithium battery. I want to do the same on our 2020 MY but I think I'll hold off a bit and see what is mention. That is a good price if they are doing the install.
 
This will be good news. I wonder the vehicle will need an firmware update so the computer knows there's a lithium battery. I want to do the same on our 2020 MY but I think I'll hold off a bit and see what is mention. That is a good price if they are doing the install.
Li-ion retrofit requires new hardware. The charging curves are different and the voltages are different too. Also requires a new washer fluid pump apparently.

And the reliability of the Li-ion batteries is unknown; apparently there's no heater and it's not supposed to be charged when it's under -10°C (or was it -20°C?). In any case, I'm not sure how they manage it in extreme cold and since this is Tesla we're talking about, I wouldn't be surprised if they pushed those out the door without adequate testing, just like they do with all of their software updates.
 
Li-ion retrofit requires new hardware. The charging curves are different and the voltages are different too. Also requires a new washer fluid pump apparently.

And the reliability of the Li-ion batteries is unknown; apparently there's no heater and it's not supposed to be charged when it's under -10°C (or was it -20°C?). In any case, I'm not sure how they manage it in extreme cold and since this is Tesla we're talking about, I wouldn't be surprised if they pushed those out the door without adequate testing, just like they do with all of their software updates.
yeah. plus it's not cooled either... how many Li-ion batteries are a-ok if they sit above 100F+ for extended times (thinking parking outside during a work day in Texas or Arizona) ? they might degrade worse than the lead-acid 12V battery.
 
UPDATE: Got a message from service yesterday afternoon asking if I wanted to change my appointment to this afternoon, so I said yes. Service guy just came.

Battery is the same lead acid that I had in the car (Hankook), so no Li-ion. Replacement took all of 10 minutes. He also checked tires and pressure, refilled wiper fluid, and resealed area around both front upper control arm ball joints. Total cost with tax was $125 and change. Can’t beat that. And I get some peace of mind for my upcoming trip.
 
UPDATE: Got a message from service yesterday afternoon asking if I wanted to change my appointment to this afternoon, so I said yes. Service guy just came.

Battery is the same lead acid that I had in the car (Hankook), so no Li-ion. Replacement took all of 10 minutes. He also checked tires and pressure, refilled wiper fluid, and resealed area around both front upper control arm ball joints. Total cost with tax was $125 and change. Can’t beat that. And I get some peace of mind for my upcoming trip.
it's not a bad deal but you replaced a 12V battery just under 2yrs... i've never had a 12V battery (even in Texas) in an ICE vehicle fail in less than ~5yrs. So at that rate you are spending $250+ on 12V batteries for 4 yrs...
 
it's not a bad deal but you replaced a 12V battery just under 2yrs... i've never had a 12V battery (even in Texas) in an ICE vehicle fail in less than ~5yrs. So at that rate you are spending $250+ on 12V batteries for 4 yrs...

If I wasn’t going to be taking a long distance trip in the car in a few weeks, I probably would have waited. But I’ve read about a bunch of Model 3 battery failures on this site and others at around the 2 year mark. Didn’t feel like taking a chance.

I‘m a sucker for preventative maintenance. $125 isn’t much, and Ive spent more than that on stupid stuff before.
 
Why doesn't everyone just load test the battery routinely? It's not hard to do.

From my experience you get widely different results if the 12V DC-DC converter is in operation. The only way I know to just load test the battery is to pop frunk, pull the plastic cover and wait for the car to go to sleep. At this point you can load test the battery. It requires a place where the car can be safely left with an open frunk for an hour or so and some forethought. OTH, for an ICE vehicle just pop the hood.
 
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From my experience you get widely different results if the 12V DC-DC converter is in operation. The only way I know to just load test the battery is to pop frunk, pull the plastic cover and wait for the car to go to sleep. At this point you can load test the battery. It requires a place where the car can be safely left with an open frunk for an hour or so and some forethought. OTH, for an ICE vehicle just pop the hood.
Yep, that's what I do. Pop the frunk and let the car sit, and wait for it to sleep.
 
From my experience you get widely different results if the 12V DC-DC converter is in operation. The only way I know to just load test the battery is to pop frunk, pull the plastic cover and wait for the car to go to sleep. At this point you can load test the battery. It requires a place where the car can be safely left with an open frunk for an hour or so and some forethought. OTH, for an ICE vehicle just pop the hood.
I try to understand what you mean by "load test the battery" ?

Do you mean, checking the voltage of the battery when the car is asleep?
You don't really need to wait for an hour. Typically a Model 3 goes to sleep in less than five minutes after you close your door.
There is this typical noise when the propulsion battery contactor gets disconnected, when the car goes to sleep.
But don't stay too close with your phone, or turn off Bluetooth.

Note: The car might be sleeping, but the Inboard DC/DC inverter might be running so you will not get the correct battery voltage.

Why doesn't everyone just load test the battery routinely? It's not hard to do.

I would recommend installing a 12 V monitor, so you can check on your phone the status of your 12 V battery.

Typically the battery voltage will be between 12.5 V and 13 V when the car is sleeping.
When driving, the Inboard DC/DC inverter get activated to avoid getting the 12 V battery to be discharged.,
and the battery voltage will then be around 13.5 V.
When the car is sleeping and the Inboard DC/DC inverter is charging the battery, the voltage is around 14.5 V,
After charging, the battery voltage is around 13.5 V

For what I observed, when the car is sleeping for few days, the battery voltage is dropping from 13.5 V to 12.5 V in about two days.
When reaching 12.5 V, the Inboard DC/DC inverter get activated and charge the 12 V battery for two to three hours.
 
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