Problems charging at 110v on GFCI circuit

[myster2]

I'm charging from the UMC with a 120v NEMA 5-20 and bought the NEMA 5-20 adapter from Tesla.

If I'm having problems, it's going to trip right after plugging in the charger and the charge cycle begins. I would reset the GFCI receptical and usually I only have to reset it once for it to work normally. I replaced my 120v GFCI outlet with the best I could find at Home Depot but still have this problem a few times per week.

Day before yesterday though it would continually trip and I could not get it to start charging. I probably tried 15 times and all failed. During the troubleshooting I also tried switching back to the NEMA 5-15 adapter for the UMC with no luck but connecting to a non-GFCI outlet charged with no problem.

Now this is puzzling, I got the idea to lower the charging amps on the cars display to the minimum which is 5 AMPS, plugged in the car and it didn't trip. Started charging at 1mi/hr so I ramped up the amps back to 16 amps 6mi/hr (what it is normally) and no problem.

 

[EVDRVN]

No issues charging at 110V on a GFCI with a 50' extension cord. That same outlet did trip constantly when DW tried charging a Model X she rented for a few days.

You are using a 50' extension on 120V, that's not good on any circuit.

 

[eprosenx]

I'm charging from the UMC with a 120v NEMA 5-20 and bought the NEMA 5-20 adapter from Tesla.

If I'm having problems, it's going to trip right after plugging in the charger and the charge cycle begins. I would reset the GFCI receptical and usually I only have to reset it once for it to work normally. I replaced my 120v GFCI outlet with the best I could find at Home Depot but still have this problem a few times per week.

Day before yesterday though it would continually trip and I could not get it to start charging. I probably tried 15 times and all failed. During the troubleshooting I also tried switching back to the NEMA 5-15 adapter for the UMC with no luck but connecting to a non-GFCI outlet charged with no problem.

Now this is puzzling, I got the idea to lower the charging amps on the cars display to the minimum which is 5 AMPS, plugged in the car and it didn't trip. Started charging at 1mi/hr so I ramped up the amps back to 16 amps 6mi/hr (what it is normally) and no problem.

We have seen reports that some GFCI’s just trip with Tesla’s connected regardless. I have read some things that say RF noise on lines can cause spurious trips and that also too much filtering for noise can also cause trips since it shunts too much current onto ground. I am not sure what the Tesla UMC Gen 2 combined with the newer model charge circuitry on the cars does, but it creates issues sometimes.

I believe several folks on the forums have been successful in replacing the GFCI outlets with Eaton branded equivalent GFCI’s and then things were fine.

Home Depot mostly sells Leviton which I generally like, but it is pretty cost optimized to compete in the Retail space.

 

[omgwtfbyobbq]

You are using a 50' extension on 120V, that's not good on any circuit.

Yeah, there's a fair bit of voltage drop charging the 3. My guess is that X pulled way too much even on 120V.

 

[xspace]

Hrm, this should work just fine.

A whole ton of questions to troubleshoot this:

• Are you positive it is the GFCI circuit tripping and not just a regular circuit breaker?
• Is the GFCI unit the only plug on the circuit? Or are there multiple (this matters since the "fault" could be being caused by a downstream plug)
• Are you plugging directly into the GFCI outlet with your UMC or are you plugging in with an extension cord? Or are you plugging into an outlet downstream of the GFCI that is tripping?
• Does it always happen? Or only sometimes?
• Is it wet or raining at all when you are using the plug?
• Is the circuit it is on a 15a or 20a circuit? Do you know if anything else shares the circuit (upstream or downstream of the GFCI)?
• Does the actual receptacle you are plugging into have the sideways notch that indicates it is 20a capable? Do you have the NEMA 5-20 adapter for the UMC or just the 5-15 one that came with the UMC?

Basically I am thinking there are a number of possible issues:

1. The GFCI is defective - this is the simplest issue - they are $20 to $25 for a replacement. Simple fix. If it is outdoors, make sure to get a "WR" rated one for outdoor use. Hopefully you are on a 20a circuit - if so, make sure to get the 20a GFCI unit.
2. Something is wired wrong - I am wondering if ground and neutral are accidentally "bonded" (touching) somewhere downstream of the GFCI
3. If you are using an extension cord, perhaps it is damaged and leaking current from hot to ground or neutral to ground.
4. It could be an actual issue with the UMC or Tesla, but that seems less likely (note that the UMC is in and of itself a GFCI unit).

I can not say I have ever run into this... Happening after several hours is weird - that sounds like a failure induced once something gets warm.

Please report back! I am curious what the resolution will be... P.S. If it is a 20a circuit and nothing else is using it then I would recommend the NEMA 5-20 adapter for the UMC so you can get 33% faster charging than the 5-15.

I have exactly the same problem at a rental house I’m using. Did the same things. Tried two different dedicated circuits.

 

[jimmyz80]

I have exactly the same problem at a rental house I’m using. Did the same things. Tried two different dedicated circuits.

If it's a rental and you don't have a way to swap out the GFCIs for better ones, you may be out of luck. You could always get an approriately heavy gauge extension cord, and try to plug into a non-GFCI outlet elsewhere in the house.

 

[DaveL61]

Thanks to all on this thread - I was encountering periodic problems at my son's place. Sometimes would work - sometimes GFCI tripped right away. I just tried a power bar with a surge protector in between the outlet and the Tesla cord - seems to have done the trick.

 

[xspace]

If it's a rental and you don't have a way to swap out the GFCIs for better ones, you may be out of luck. You could always get an approriately heavy gauge extension cord, and try to plug into a non-GFCI outlet elsewhere in the house.

The car port at my rental has a utility closet, and in that closet is a non-GFCI receptacle. So, I’ve been using this, and it has worked flawlessly. We’re nearing the end of our 10 week winter get-away, and while I’m looking forward to getting back home to our 72A 230V Tesla Charger, I have to say that using this mobile charger has easily met all of my vacation needs, which were limited to only city-driving. I have a CHAdeMO, but used it only once this whole trip. Nice to have it for an emergency, but charging was far too pricey.

 

[afty]

I had a similar problem when I first got my Model 3. The GFCI outlet in my garage would trip immediately when I started to charge the car. I replaced it with a new Leviton GFCI outlet from Amazon, and it has been working fine since.

 

[xspace]

I had a similar problem when I first got my Model 3. The GFCI outlet in my garage would trip immediately when I started to charge the car. I replaced it with a new Leviton GFCI outlet from Amazon, and it has been working fine since.

Yes, I read here that others had done the same thing. My issue is that I’m renting down here in Charleston, just for a winter getaway. I cannot rewire the owner’s GFCIs.

 

[DamnitBennett]

Hey everyone. First-time poster here...
Not sure if this thread is still active or not? I recently put my order in for an LR M3. Before putting in my order, I had done a 24-hour test drive. This is how I discovered that my garage outlets would instantly pop when I plugged the charger into the standard wall socket. My house is brand new and only three years old, so I was pretty confused when this happened. Since I had lost power before to the garage I knew that wall outlet inside my house, had been popped. This outlet has the reset and test buttons on it pictured below. If I understand how the plugs in my house/garage are set up, the 3 standard plugs in my garage are tied to that GFI plug inside of my house.

Looking at previous comments, it sounds like my GFI plugs could be cheap and causing the problems. I've attached a photo of my panel outside that controls the GFI plugs in my garage and around the exterior of the house. The circuit says so 120/240v~ if I understand that correctly, that should be enough to use the standard home charge for my M3?

Side note, I have noticed is that the GFI outlets that have the reset slots on the outside of my house no longer have the green light on and no longer have power going to them. When I attempted to reset both of them, they did not reset. So I think I need to replace them both. I have purchased replacements that were linked above (https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-Self-Test-Resistant-Receptacle-Wallplate/dp/B0189B79IM/?tag=tmc064-20) Sadly won't be able to test if this worked as far as charging for another couple weeks. I was quoted ~4 weeks for delivery, and it has been one week so far.

It would be helpful if anyone had insight on this, especially if the circuit should be capable of charging.

Images:


Thanks

 

[CyberGus]

Not sure if this thread is still active or not?

Well it is now! ;-)

I've seen multiple GFCI outlets on a single circuit before, which is incorrect. They are difficult to reset in this configuration, you almost need to do them simultaneously like you're launching a missile.

If one pops due to the UMC and two others have already failed after 3 years, then I would find them highly suspect, and install quality replacements.

 

[DamnitBennett]

Well it is now! ;-)

I've seen multiple GFCI outlets on a single circuit before, which is incorrect. They are difficult to reset in this configuration, you almost need to do them simultaneously like you're launching a missile.

If one pops due to the UMC and two others have already failed after 3 years, then I would find them highly suspect, and install quality replacements.

Cool, assuming the breaker at 120/240v~ is capable of charging? just need to update the plugs?

 

[CyberGus]

Cool, assuming the breaker at 120/240v~ is capable of charging? just need to update the plugs?

Theoretically yes, but:

UMC + GFCI = YMMV

and

15A at 120V = slow charging (2-3 mph)

 

[Rocky_H]

15A at 120V = slow charging (2-3 mph)

It's not that slow. The old inefficient pigs of the Model S were 3 mph. Model 3 is about 5 mph.

 

[eprosenx]

Hey everyone. First-time poster here...
Not sure if this thread is still active or not? I recently put my order in for an LR M3. Before putting in my order, I had done a 24-hour test drive. This is how I discovered that my garage outlets would instantly pop when I plugged the charger into the standard wall socket. My house is brand new and only three years old, so I was pretty confused when this happened. Since I had lost power before to the garage I knew that wall outlet inside my house, had been popped. This outlet has the reset and test buttons on it pictured below. If I understand how the plugs in my house/garage are set up, the 3 standard plugs in my garage are tied to that GFI plug inside of my house.

Looking at previous comments, it sounds like my GFI plugs could be cheap and causing the problems. I've attached a photo of my panel outside that controls the GFI plugs in my garage and around the exterior of the house. The circuit says so 120/240v~ if I understand that correctly, that should be enough to use the standard home charge for my M3?

Side note, I have noticed is that the GFI outlets that have the reset slots on the outside of my house no longer have the green light on and no longer have power going to them. When I attempted to reset both of them, they did not reset. So I think I need to replace them both. I have purchased replacements that were linked above (https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-Self-Test-Resistant-Receptacle-Wallplate/dp/B0189B79IM/?tag=tmc064-20) Sadly won't be able to test if this worked as far as charging for another couple weeks. I was quoted ~4 weeks for delivery, and it has been one week so far.

It would be helpful if anyone had insight on this, especially if the circuit should be capable of charging.

Images:
View attachment 580514 View attachment 580532

Thanks

Lots of comments:

First, I would want more than 120v charging at home personally (also the Tesla would take the entire 120v circuit and limit your ability to use it for other things at the same time). A dedicated circuit is the way to go.

As far as the instant trip you are seeing, it is possible that there is a neutral to ground touching each other somewhere in an electrical box downstream of the GFCI that is causing the trip. Or as you state, it could be a cheap GFCI that the Tesla trips due to noise, etc...

The GFCI on the outside not working is interesting. That sounds like maybe a blown breaker.

Can you post pictures of your inside panel? It looks like you posted a picture of your outside panel (main?) which is only 150 amp. Pictures of any stickers on the panel door would be useful too. Note that adding circuits to the outside panel would probably be easy.

 

[justskipper]

...UMC + GFCI = YMMV....

GFCI is the intended use for the product as charging isn't presumably done in the living room. So I believe the formula can be reasonably reduced to, "UMC = YMMV."

 

[mswlogo]

So I don’t think this had anything remotely to do with the GFCI nature of the circuit.

I think quite simply something was not tightened sufficiently (or was a defective receptacle - which is unlikely). When wires are not tightened properly and carry sufficient current they can heat up massively and melt things.

Most residential circuits are daisy chained one receptacle to another. So if you are charging the Tesla on the fifth receptacle in the chain you are running he current through four other receptacles and you are relying on all those connections to be made properly.

This is one reason why NEC requires EV charging circuits to be dedicated (for a any new circuits you install).

Note that a GFCI receptacle or circuit breaker only protects you from faults to ground. In this case there was likely no fault to ground (just excessive heating which eventually caused enough voltage drop for the Tesla to detect an issue and maybe save you from a house fire). The regular over current function of the circuit breaker also would not have tripped since current levels likely were not out of spec.

If at all possible I would recommend installing a dedicated charging circuit (and perhaps upgrade to 240v and maybe higher amperage at the same time!)

Good post as always.

It also points out that EV Charging is a very a significant, fairly unique, load on what ever size circuit it's on. Not many appliances pull the 80% load constant for hours on end, through the night. If you have any weakness in the circuit, it will likely surface. As even this low amperage case showed.

It's another reason I highly recommend HARD WIRING your EV charging. As in, a Wall Connector. And it should be DEDICATED. The post you replied to said 1 Amp is minuscule, normally yes. But not when the EV is using the entire continiuos capacity of the circuit (80%). That "1 Amp" could put you at 85%.

Another common weakness on daisy chained outlets is when the installer uses "Quick Wire". I make it a point to NEVER use the "quick wire", for anything, why the code ever allowed it is beyond me. That was probably not the case here because I don't think GFCI Outlets ever have "quick wire", but the non GFCI Outlets could have.

It's not a bad idea to monitor temps at each connection point for EV charging during the middle of your first long charge. And even check it annually. Even proper dedicated installations have faults (another reason why I suggest hard wire, less opportunities for faults and better contained for when they do fail).

 

[leonar40]

Thanks to all on this thread - I was encountering periodic problems at my son's place. Sometimes would work - sometimes GFCI tripped right away. I just tried a power bar with a surge protector in between the outlet and the Tesla cord - seems to have done the trick.

Yes, I did the same. Seems counter intuitive, but I added one of those 6 outlet surge protectors that plug right into the socket on the wall and then plugged the 120V charger into that. That seems to keep the GFCI from tripping. This is no longer a problem for me since I got a dedicated Level 2 charger installed, but it's interesting that you had the same work-around. Must provide some kind of buffer that keeps the GFCI from tripping prematurely.

 

[mswlogo]

Yes, I did the same. Seems counter intuitive, but I added one of those 6 outlet surge protectors that plug right into the socket on the wall and then plugged the 120V charger into that. That seems to keep the GFCI from tripping. This is no longer a problem for me since I got a dedicated Level 2 charger installed, but it's interesting that you had the same work-around. Must provide some kind of buffer that keeps the GFCI from tripping prematurely.

I suggested a “power conditioner” (which is what you did) to this thread a year and a half ago I wouldn’t want to do that for my primary charging though. Fine for in a pinch or at say a family members house that you occasionally visit. Thanks for the follow up on your work around.

Problems charging at 110v on GFCI circuit