TMC is an independent, primarily volunteer organization that relies on ad revenue to cover its operating costs. Please consider whitelisting TMC on your ad blocker or making a Paypal contribution here: paypal.me/SupportTMC

Procedure for exposing the nose cone charging lugs for the 12V battery

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by FlasherZ, Dec 13, 2012.

  1. FlasherZ

    FlasherZ Sig Model S + Sig Model X + Model 3 Resv

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2012
    Messages:
    7,019
    While the ranger was here, he showed me the easiest method for removing the chunk of nosecone to expose the two lugs.

    Using a trusty "multi-tool" (a/k/a hotel room key in my case), insert it along the bottom edge between clips and use it to get leverage on the bottom. Pry up slightly to pull out the bottom edge, then using your hand pull out on the bottom until you can pull down and remove the cone piece. You can then see the lugs -- positive covered with a red cap, ground exposed.

    See the pictorial -- and yes, I know my car is filthy. I haven't been able to wash it yet.

    To re-attach, insert the top edge then snap the bottom in, reversing the steps...

    CameraZOOM-20121213160737928.jpg CameraZOOM-20121213160758812.jpg CameraZOOM-20121213160808797.jpg CameraZOOM-20121213160816020.jpg
     
  2. Zextraterrestrial

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2010
    Messages:
    3,636
    Location:
    Humboldt/Los Altos
    Sweet, good to know!
     
  3. strider

    strider Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2010
    Messages:
    2,920
    Location:
    NE Oklahoma
    Does that only work for the Sig nosecone?
     
  4. FlasherZ

    FlasherZ Sig Model S + Sig Model X + Model 3 Resv

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2012
    Messages:
    7,019
    I do not know. Someone with a production cone should check to see if there is a removable piece.
     
  5. ckessel

    ckessel Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Messages:
    4,266
    Stupid question maybe, but why would you need to get to those?
     
  6. FlasherZ

    FlasherZ Sig Model S + Sig Model X + Model 3 Resv

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2012
    Messages:
    7,019
    In case the car appears completely dead, you may need to "jumpstart" those terminals. As I understand it, if the 12v battery runs flat for any reason the car will not function even if you have a full charge on the main battery pack. The car has a DC-DC converter and will charge the 12v battery if it senses it running down so in theory you should never have that need.

    It is also possible that you could jump-start another vehicle with those posts.
     
  7. Vger

    Vger Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2009
    Messages:
    1,683
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, BC, Canada
    From page 25 of the Owner's Manual:

    "NOTE: When the low-power consumption mode is active, the auxiliary 12V battery is no longer being charged and can completely discharge within
    12 hours. In the unlikely event this occurs, you may need to “jump start” or replace the 12V battery before you can charge. In this situation, contact Tesla."



     
  8. dsm363

    dsm363 Roadster + Sig Model S

    Joined:
    May 17, 2009
    Messages:
    18,235
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV
    Is low power consumption mode when you've driven to 0 on your range and the car goes into the hibernation mode? This must be different than the new 4.0 software setting to turn displays off to save power. Thanks.
     
  9. shokunin

    shokunin P85 & S40

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2012
    Messages:
    960
    Location:
    Irvine, CA
    That looks like a great place to somehow attach and stash the CA FasTrak License plate RFID tag. The regular square Toll tag may work but not sure if it's waterproof as the license plate tags are.
     
  10. Lloyd

    Lloyd Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2011
    Messages:
    4,885
    Location:
    San Luis Obispo, CA
    Zip lock and Zip tie?
     
  11. vfx

    vfx Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2006
    Messages:
    14,792
    Location:
    CA CA
    #11 vfx, Dec 13, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 14, 2012
    That kind of reveal needs some music to go with it.
     
  12. Vger

    Vger Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2009
    Messages:
    1,683
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, BC, Canada
    I believe that is correct, or if you leave your car unplugged too long, it will hibernate to try to prevent total loss of the big battery.

    Also from page 25 of the Owner's Manual:

    Italics added.

    I am not sure, but 5% is probably about 0 miles on the range gauge. On the Roadster, it stops reporting range at 10%, but the bar graph continues ticking down from there. The Roadster stops cold at about 5%. Yes, it happened to me twice, but never again! It scares the s--- out of you!
     
  13. brianman

    brianman Burrito Founder

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2011
    Messages:
    15,487
    @Vger - Might want to edit your italics to bold, as ninja italics in a quote aren't very helpful. ;)
     
  14. dflye

    dflye S Sig Perf 414, VIN 814

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2011
    Messages:
    569
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    Guess if you view the source, at least that preserved the italicized italics, which are now bolded for emphasis. :tongue:

     
  15. brianman

    brianman Burrito Founder

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2011
    Messages:
    15,487
    For the reputation haters, I wasn't nitpicking. I was honestly curious what Vger was trying to express.

    Good point re: workaround, dflye. Thanks!
     
  16. strider

    strider Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2010
    Messages:
    2,920
    Location:
    NE Oklahoma
    So I just spent about 15 minutes poking around the nose of my GP car and this is not possible on a GP car. The nose is one solid piece so there's no panel to remove like FlasherZ did. I gently poked around the nose and couldn't see a way to remove it so no guesses here.

    I also pulled the shrouds around the frunk and I can see the 12V battery but have no idea how I'd get to the thing.
     
  17. artsci

    artsci Sponsor

    Joined:
    May 10, 2012
    Messages:
    4,678
    Location:
    Timonium, Maryland
    The nose cone has to be removable -- I can't imagine access to what's behind it has to be through bumper removal or from the inside of the frunk. No doubt there's a procedure that's not obvious with a visual inspection. Some prying will have to be done, and the only question is where and how. My guess is that it pries loose from the bottom. I'll find out on Monday when I visit the store/service center in Washington, DC.
     
  18. sublimaze1

    sublimaze1 8Dec2012 / Leeroy Jenkins

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2012
    Messages:
    1,091
    Location:
    Basin City, TX
    It looks as if the pictures in the beginning of this thread are from the older Sig (as people are calling it) nosecone, whereas mine has the next iteration. As such, I was planning on using the same or similar method as in the pictures for mine. The tolerances, however, are a bit more precise and I have very little confidence in myself as a nosecone technician.

    Hence, I have chickened out as I don't want to be the first person to call a Ranger for a fractured nose piece.

    Maybe I will have another look at it later.
     
  19. artsci

    artsci Sponsor

    Joined:
    May 10, 2012
    Messages:
    4,678
    Location:
    Timonium, Maryland
    Why take the risk? I'm sure there's a trick, but you do risk damage if you don't know it. As I said, I'll try to find out the procedure when I visit the DC service center tomorrow. I'll also be finalizing a separate nose cone order at that time so I'll also find out what the piece costs.
     
  20. sublimaze1

    sublimaze1 8Dec2012 / Leeroy Jenkins

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2012
    Messages:
    1,091
    Location:
    Basin City, TX
    I will await your success. I am sure it is simple, otherwise, it would not be reasonable to put serviceable items behind it. Thank you for asking. A great thank you if you can video someone removing it.
     

Share This Page