If anyone needs supplies to do this, Ecolight makes stick on 12 volt LED lighting strips that work great. You need to splice into the existing lighting, but easy to do!
https://www.ecolightled.com/
https://www.ecolightled.com/
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Just picked up the LED light strips from Costco that was mentioned in post #42 instead of the IKEA version, since it was cheaper and I can always return if I'm not satisfied.
Based on some informal testing in the house, I think the motion sensor is infrared, so I think it will stay off if things move around in the trunk or frunk. Now I just need a car to install it in!
Based on some informal testing in the house, I think the motion sensor is infrared, so I think it will stay off if things move around in the trunk or frunk. Now I just need a car to install it in!
I am planning to do these mods as soon as I find some time.
What I am more interested in is additional lighting for the cabin. Particularly in the footwells and under the cubby (I don't have a CCI). Ideally I would like these to activate with the dome lighting. Does anyone know where I can most easily tap in to make this happen?
What I am more interested in is additional lighting for the cabin. Particularly in the footwells and under the cubby (I don't have a CCI). Ideally I would like these to activate with the dome lighting. Does anyone know where I can most easily tap in to make this happen?
jcadman22
Tesla Owners Club Maryland
I tried the drawer lights from Ikea and found that they are motion activated which leads me to believe they'll turn on with every little jostle. Back to the store.
Soulopoulos
Byron VIN:22999 & 151975
Here's an amateur version of your nice installsIt's not cool as your versions but for a non-engineer, it's a cheap, quick 10-minute install. The light shuts itself off after 30 seconds.
I got two motion sensor LED from Costco for $19.99. I added one to the frunk and one on the bottom side of parcel shelf, using only one side of velcro strip. It stick well enough to the car's
carpet.
I love your simple LED solution. Do you have a brand or Partnumber? We do not have a Costco in Belgium and I would love to three of those...
Here is a link to a Costco motion sensing LED that is battery operated.
LED Motion Sensing Ceiling Light 5-pack
You might also want to look for motion sensor LED lights on eBay. Many will be battery-operated (that's okay), and most could be rewired easily if you want to connect to the existing 12v in the car.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
My MS does not have the LED lights on either side of the inside of the trunk.
I am working on adding lighting to the trunk. After acquiring some parts and reading the how-to’s on TeslaTap.com and TMC, I thought I was ready. But my MS does not have the basic LED lights that it seems others do. So, I called my local SC and asked it there was a service bulletin or announcement that explained this. A few minutes later, I got a call back. Once upon a time, the trunk lights and interior lights were part of the Tech Package, but were separated. The lights were expanded and became the Premium Interior Lighting option.
There’s a cutout imprint for the LED lights in the corners, but not punched out yet. Since the lights are now an add-on as an option it would make sense that the harness is there and ready for the lights.
So, I looked. Even on cars without the side trunk lights, the connector for the LED Light is there behind the cutout imprint. The cutout imprint has a small cut already in it. You can make it a little bigger with a box cutter. Don’t cut too wide, you don’t want to completely open this as you want a part left to fill the hole since you don’t have the LED light. I fished my finger around inside the cutout, but could not find a wire.
So, I took my well cover out, removed the plastic carpet tacks that hold the carpet in place on the opening to the feet well. Then I wrestled the carpet arms on the outside of the well, up and out of the way. I was surprised I could pull the carpet up high enough to expose the pad in the center of the trunk (not that I was trying to get to the pad).
Once the foot well carpet arm was up and out of the way, I could see and more easily pull the LED light connector down and out. There was only about an inch of play. So, I opted to cut the cutout imprint a little and fished around for the connector and pulled it up and through the cutout. Now, I had about three inches of play and I could attach quick-connect patch wires to give me some working room. Then I pushed the LED connector and the quick-connected patched wires back through the cutout.
Now I have a power source for the LED strips. I added barrel connector w/wire to my power extension wires and my LED strip.
Left side. I tucked extra wire up around the inside plastic frame of the trunk until I got to the parcel shelf rail. With the wire tucked in, I pulled the tape and mounted the LED strip.
Right side. I could not locate the LED light connector. So I tucked two new wires about 4 feet long under the plastic lip just inside the trunk across from the left side to the right side. Once on this side I used the same barrel connectors w/wire for the connection to the LED strip. I connected the other LED strip and tucked the extra wire along the plastic of the trunk up to the right side parcel shelf rail like the left.
Update: Okay, after I determined that my car did have the harness even though it didn't have the trunk LED Lights, I ordered them through my SC. Cost was a little less than $12.00 each. I had them now.
When I started my LED Strip Light add-on project, I could not find the LED Light connector on the right hand side. So, I got bold and popped the plastic trim on the just to the inside right hand side of the truck out of the way. Then pulled the inter wall (felt pad) away from the inside corner. AH HA! With a flashlight I found the right hand wire and connector. Why, I don't understand, but the connector and wire was take to a harness further up into the corner of the truck. I would never have fished it out without pulling this stuff open. I cut the white tape securing the connector. There was enough slack to pull it down and out the LED Lamp hole. I pushed the felt padding back, replaced the inside truck plastic trim, then snapped the connector into the LED Lamp. Worked fine.
Now, my S has the factory trunk lights for only $24.00 and the LED strips I added like others here did. Every little bit helps.
****
Confident everything is connected, I opened the back door to trigger the lights, and bingo it all works. My strips could be brighter. (It is what it is.) I can easily though add two more LED strips along the curve of the inside of the trunk with ease. I may do that yet.
The best part of this is the new LED lights are on the same circuit, and controlled by the same timer that the lid’s single light is. This saves us the effort of a separate switch, mounting it, and remembering to turn it off every time.
Backing up a little, at first I was not sure this was a LED light connector. So, I put black plastic tape on two small safety pins and stuck one in each side of the front of the connector. Then using an ohmmeter tested for power. At first it seems dead. Then I checked that the hatchback lid’s light was off. So, I opened the back door to trigger the light. It did. Now the connector had power for a few minutes until it timed out. Next I temporarily wired an LED strip to the safety pins and tried again. This time the opened door triggered the LED strip. Perfect, now I know the quick-connector is in fact the LED Light connector even though the LED light is not present on my car.
Since I relied on TeslaTap for much of my how-to, I posted a version of this on his instruction thread. I hope it helps those that discover that they too don't have the LED Lights.
I am working on adding lighting to the trunk. After acquiring some parts and reading the how-to’s on TeslaTap.com and TMC, I thought I was ready. But my MS does not have the basic LED lights that it seems others do. So, I called my local SC and asked it there was a service bulletin or announcement that explained this. A few minutes later, I got a call back. Once upon a time, the trunk lights and interior lights were part of the Tech Package, but were separated. The lights were expanded and became the Premium Interior Lighting option.
There’s a cutout imprint for the LED lights in the corners, but not punched out yet. Since the lights are now an add-on as an option it would make sense that the harness is there and ready for the lights.
So, I looked. Even on cars without the side trunk lights, the connector for the LED Light is there behind the cutout imprint. The cutout imprint has a small cut already in it. You can make it a little bigger with a box cutter. Don’t cut too wide, you don’t want to completely open this as you want a part left to fill the hole since you don’t have the LED light. I fished my finger around inside the cutout, but could not find a wire.
So, I took my well cover out, removed the plastic carpet tacks that hold the carpet in place on the opening to the feet well. Then I wrestled the carpet arms on the outside of the well, up and out of the way. I was surprised I could pull the carpet up high enough to expose the pad in the center of the trunk (not that I was trying to get to the pad).
Once the foot well carpet arm was up and out of the way, I could see and more easily pull the LED light connector down and out. There was only about an inch of play. So, I opted to cut the cutout imprint a little and fished around for the connector and pulled it up and through the cutout. Now, I had about three inches of play and I could attach quick-connect patch wires to give me some working room. Then I pushed the LED connector and the quick-connected patched wires back through the cutout.
Now I have a power source for the LED strips. I added barrel connector w/wire to my power extension wires and my LED strip.
Left side. I tucked extra wire up around the inside plastic frame of the trunk until I got to the parcel shelf rail. With the wire tucked in, I pulled the tape and mounted the LED strip.
Right side. I could not locate the LED light connector. So I tucked two new wires about 4 feet long under the plastic lip just inside the trunk across from the left side to the right side. Once on this side I used the same barrel connectors w/wire for the connection to the LED strip. I connected the other LED strip and tucked the extra wire along the plastic of the trunk up to the right side parcel shelf rail like the left.
Update: Okay, after I determined that my car did have the harness even though it didn't have the trunk LED Lights, I ordered them through my SC. Cost was a little less than $12.00 each. I had them now.
When I started my LED Strip Light add-on project, I could not find the LED Light connector on the right hand side. So, I got bold and popped the plastic trim on the just to the inside right hand side of the truck out of the way. Then pulled the inter wall (felt pad) away from the inside corner. AH HA! With a flashlight I found the right hand wire and connector. Why, I don't understand, but the connector and wire was take to a harness further up into the corner of the truck. I would never have fished it out without pulling this stuff open. I cut the white tape securing the connector. There was enough slack to pull it down and out the LED Lamp hole. I pushed the felt padding back, replaced the inside truck plastic trim, then snapped the connector into the LED Lamp. Worked fine.
Now, my S has the factory trunk lights for only $24.00 and the LED strips I added like others here did. Every little bit helps.
****
Confident everything is connected, I opened the back door to trigger the lights, and bingo it all works. My strips could be brighter. (It is what it is.) I can easily though add two more LED strips along the curve of the inside of the trunk with ease. I may do that yet.
The best part of this is the new LED lights are on the same circuit, and controlled by the same timer that the lid’s single light is. This saves us the effort of a separate switch, mounting it, and remembering to turn it off every time.
Backing up a little, at first I was not sure this was a LED light connector. So, I put black plastic tape on two small safety pins and stuck one in each side of the front of the connector. Then using an ohmmeter tested for power. At first it seems dead. Then I checked that the hatchback lid’s light was off. So, I opened the back door to trigger the light. It did. Now the connector had power for a few minutes until it timed out. Next I temporarily wired an LED strip to the safety pins and tried again. This time the opened door triggered the LED strip. Perfect, now I know the quick-connector is in fact the LED Light connector even though the LED light is not present on my car.
Since I relied on TeslaTap for much of my how-to, I posted a version of this on his instruction thread. I hope it helps those that discover that they too don't have the LED Lights.
Last edited:
ken830
Model S 85, Model 3 Performance, Model X LongRange
Wait... What?! Did that become an option!? Or is it lumped in with the Premium Interior Lighting package?
I am offended that Tesla would strip this out and add it to a "premium interior lighting package". First off, the lights that are there certainly are not "premium" by any means. If they were, this thread wouldn't exist. Second, WTF Tesla. $100k car with ****** lighting? Again, very offended. This isn't the Tesla we all love. This is a Tesla that is sticking it to it's customers. Things like this should never be part of an "option". And as far as the cost of the option, it should be more like $50-$100, not $1000. Cmon Tesla. What the hell are you doing out there? Thinking of new ways to screw customers? Now you're starting to think like the other auto manufacturer's we all hate. This premium interior package is a huge slap in our faces.
hikerockies
Member
Agree with you completely. Premium lighting package is a complete rip-off at $1000. My S60 ordered long before this package appeared has these lights and I like them. I am taking delivery of my second Model S tomorrow and at $1000 this package was not even up for consideration. I would have paid $100-$150. I will find out tomorrow how many essential lights I am missing because I did not opt for a $1000 package.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
My trunk is essentially pitch black in my parking garage. There's no lights I can turn on in the garage. It's crazy. I've been carrying around a rechargeable LED worklight (awesome, BTW, for post-wash inspections) until I can get around to doing a more permanent solution.
Just got my car and one thing I noticed was that I couldn't find my charge cable in the trunk, because it was so dark in there. I could not believe that there wasn't any light at all in there. There are two cut out holes in the upper corners of the carpet and I was wondering how they could possibly have missed putting in the lights. A quick search and I found this thread, and apparently there aren't supposed to be any lights. That's completely ridiculous. There's a small light on the hatch, but that does absolutely nothing when it's over six feet in the air. Although pathetically small, at least the frunk light is actually in the frunk. Looks like I'll be adding my own lights. Thanks Akikiki for your work digging around to find the hidden wires.
So, decided to add some lighting to my frunk and trunk. Never actually looked on the forum or anything before doing this, so, was all done on my own.
My Model S does not have existing lighting in the trunk at all. The only light in the trunk is the single LED on the hatch.
Fortunately, the wire that powers this LED is accessible in the harness that goes up the hatch. I reached it on the passenger side after removing a couple of panels near/on the C pillar. On mine it was black with a white stripe. Used a chassis ground point for negative. After confirming, I tapped this with a solderless tap and moved on.
The frunk was simple, LED was easily tapped for power.
I used some cheap LED light strips. Two in the frunk, two on each side of the trunk under the parcel shelf holder.
They turn off when the existing LEDs turn off (after a timeout or after closing... tested the frunk one by leaving my phone in it recording a video).
Here's the spoils:
Both taken in otherwise near complete darkness.
My Model S does not have existing lighting in the trunk at all. The only light in the trunk is the single LED on the hatch.
Fortunately, the wire that powers this LED is accessible in the harness that goes up the hatch. I reached it on the passenger side after removing a couple of panels near/on the C pillar. On mine it was black with a white stripe. Used a chassis ground point for negative. After confirming, I tapped this with a solderless tap and moved on.
The frunk was simple, LED was easily tapped for power.
I used some cheap LED light strips. Two in the frunk, two on each side of the trunk under the parcel shelf holder.
They turn off when the existing LEDs turn off (after a timeout or after closing... tested the frunk one by leaving my phone in it recording a video).
Here's the spoils:
Both taken in otherwise near complete darkness.
Runs Kwh
Member
So, decided to add some lighting to my frunk and trunk. Never actually looked on the forum or anything before doing this, so, was all done on my own.
My Model S does not have existing lighting in the trunk at all. The only light in the trunk is the single LED on the hatch.
Fortunately, the wire that powers this LED is accessible in the harness that goes up the hatch. I reached it on the passenger side after removing a couple of panels near/on the C pillar. On mine it was black with a white stripe. Used a chassis ground point for negative. After confirming, I tapped this with a solderless tap and moved on.
The frunk was simple, LED was easily tapped for power.
I used some cheap LED light strips. Two in the frunk, two on each side of the trunk under the parcel shelf holder.
They turn off when the existing LEDs turn off (after a timeout or after closing... tested the frunk one by leaving my phone in it recording a video).
Here's the spoils:
View attachment 51375View attachment 51376
Both taken in otherwise near complete darkness.
Wow, I like the side lights. It's like the premium lighting up front - but in the back
Is this a DIY for someone with little experience in hotwiring a car?Wow, I like the side lights. It's like the premium lighting up front - but in the back
Without tracking down some more easily accessible wiring... maybe. The tap I did to the hatch LED power wasn't all that easy... the rest was pretty simple, though... just a matter of routing and hiding wires nicely.
I just did the LED light modification to my trunk. The battery powered motion sensor one was just not that great, and it went off whenever anything slid across the trunk.
I followed the directions over at TeslaTap, except for a few key things that I will post over there as well.
The outcome was fantastic. I'm really happy with it.
Hope this helps!
I followed the directions over at TeslaTap, except for a few key things that I will post over there as well.
- First, I purchased 3 sets of 50cm LED's at SuperBrightLEDs.com here. Being that I bought 3 separate sets (one for the Frunk), instead of a whole roll, they each already had wires already soldered on. No further modifications needed! The length was perfect. While the original instructions called for 6", the 50 cm (19.7") lengths went under the lips for the entire parcel shelf, extending all the way forward to the back of the rear seats. There is still a lip there, but it gets really small, with just enough space for the LED strip. Pic below
- While shopping at SuperBrightLEDs.com, pick up about 15' of 24 G wire. Plenty for this install and the Frunk if you later need it.
- Next, I saw no practical use for the "barrel" connectors. This seemed like an unnecessary complexity in trying to find the correct parts, modifying them, etc. I used simple male/female crimp connectors found at my local hardware store.
- Use Posi-Taps instead of the solderless taps they recommend. I learned about these while installing my Lighted-T. I only had two of these left and the install was super easy/fast. Being the impatient fellow that I am, I bought the solderless taps for the other side at my local hardware store (that's all they had). That install was do-able, but much slower and awkward as I had to fight to get the solderless taps to fit. It was just not as ridiculously easy as it is with the posi-taps.
- Total project time: 60 minutes for both sides. If I had to do it again, and I may for a couple of friends, probably could do it in under 30 minutes.
The outcome was fantastic. I'm really happy with it.
Hope this helps!
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