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Project: More light in Frunk and Trunk

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Here are my improvements to the added lights, as I did not want to make any changes to any of the wiring in the car, thus allowing me to put the car back to the way it was. To keep the cost lower, I used two strips of the LEDS with the wiring on both end and just cut the strip in half. Used half for the frunk, and two halves for the trunk. I have a spare half for something else.

Using these connectors I found at Fry's:

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I modified the led strips like so:

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Then using my home made connector, I just plugged the strip into the existing light connectors in the frunk and the two in the trunk like so and I can remove the strips just by unplugging them and putting the original light back into the connector. For newer cars that don't have the trunk lights, the female connectors are still there for you to plug into:

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Finished lighting:

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Improved frunk lighting modification!

I made a significant improvement to the frunk lighting modifications posted previously and on Teslatap (Lights How to Improve Frunk Lighting | TeslaTap ). This modification will allow owners of the newer Dual Motor Model S to improve Frunk lighting.

Initially I used the the Tesla Motors Forum plans for lighting up the Trunk and Frunk with low wattage ,self adhesive, waterproof LED lights (see parts list below) and a tip of the hat to 4SUPER9 for introducing me to Posi-Taps they ROCK!! I was also inspired by Lights How to Improve Frunk Lighting | TeslaTap . I appreciated their detailed instructions of how to install a short LED strip in well the frunk but the newer Dual Motor Model S lacks the well.

However I was NOT satisfied with the Frunk lighting result, the light was often blocked by stuff I'd stashed there. For example, I keep an ice chest in my Frunk, handy for ice cream and other cold foods from the supermarket, but the ice chest wedges into the well blocking the light. Plus when packing for trips such as this recent trip to Yosemite Valley:

T and Half Dome.JPG


The duffle bag I'd stuffed into the Frunk covered up the LED lights, I was back to square one. THE SOLUTION CAME TO ME LATE ONE NIGHT IN YOSEMITE AS I SEARCHED OUT ANY FOOD/LOTIONS/CRUMBS IN THE FRUNK THAT MIGHT ATTRACT BEARS. MY FINGERS WERE NUMB FROM THE COLD. Here's what I've done:

Run a second pair of wires around the driver-side Frunk bucket lining to about the 2 o'clock position, starting from the OEM anemic LED light:

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Here's where I attached the Posi-Taps:
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guided the wires around the side of the bucket lining:
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run the wires under the rubber gasket:
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and made a 1/8th" V-notch along side the clip, this will be totally covered up by the rubber gasket, on the rear side of the Frunk and won't allow any moisture intrusion (I've since driven through heavy rains without an ounce of moisture in the Frunk!)
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and gently refitted the gasket over the wires being careful to not pinch or damage them.

I then guided the wires under the plastic funk-surround back to the washer hose.
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and zip tied the wire to the washer hose at 4-5" intervals to a point 1/3 the way to towards the center of the frunk lid.
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At that point there is a well in frunk lid where you can sneak your connectors (power wires mated to the LED strip).

I centered a ~10 inch strip of LED lights just being the Frunk sealing gasket:
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and voilà excellent frunk lighting, no glare and an excellent improvement this already excellent vehicle.
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Parts List
SuperbrightLEDs.com, St. Louis Missouri
Used 1- LED strip Part # WFLS–WW30–BK:50cm[19.7in] warm white $14.95, (2/3 length for the Frunk lid and 1/3 length for the inner-well light)
Posi-products.com use the Posi-Tap, which make the job very simple and do not harm the cars original wiring, I purchased:
Used: 1- BLISTER CARD Posi-Tap™ PTA2022M 6pc, part #ZRTL-641-6 $8.95
Radio Shack:
Used: 22 gauge, very thin, stranded Hookup Wire
Insulated Butt Connectors (need a crimping tool ~$8 and a bit of practice)
 
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My MS does not have the LED lights on either side of the inside of the trunk.

There's a cutout imprint for the LED lights in the corners, but not punched out yet. Since the lights are now an add-on as an option it would make sense that the harness is there and ready for the lights.

So, I looked. Even on cars without the side trunk lights, the connector for the LED Light is there behind the cutout imprint. The cutout imprint has a small cut already in it. You can make it a little bigger with a box cutter. Don’t cut too wide, you don’t want to completely open this as you want a part left to fill the hole since you don’t have the LED light. I fished my finger around inside the cutout, but could not find a wire.

So, I took my well cover out, removed the plastic carpet tacks that hold the carpet in place on the opening to the feet well. Then I wrestled the carpet arms on the outside of the well, up and out of the way. I was surprised I could pull the carpet up high enough to expose the pad in the center of the trunk (not that I was trying to get to the pad).
View attachment 45895

My just delivered refreshed Tesla has the same situation as yours. There is only one light in the trunk door that is essentially useless. I have stamped imprints on the back wall of the trunk on both sides of the door opening, that are not cut out.

I found LED lights that have the proper connectors to plug into the Tesla light plugs behind the carpet on the side walls of the trunk, so I was ready to go.

ELLuminer2—Trunk Lighting for Tesla Model S

I followed your instructions and tried to to move the carpet arms on the walls of the trunk, but they wouldn't budge. I am concerned about damaging them if I use too much force. Any suggestions?
 
To MDMGS047, Trunk arms? Do you mean the hard plastic trim that is inside the trunk and goes from the floor up inside the opening? The pop out with the same clips that Tesla uses nearly everywhere. Worse that can happen, you break a couple. But the pop off/slide off and you can get replacements from Tesla. I found some similar clips on Amazon that work as substitutes and cost 20% less for a package. Search plastic trim clips. Back to your question, but move forward, slowly, but move forward to remove the trim if it helps. I though was able to pull the fuzzy carpet on the interior of the trunk out enough to find the wiring harness in the lower corners. You will likely find the connectors for the lights secured with zip ties or black cloth wrap to the harness. Cut the tie or unwrap the tape to free some length to the slot in the carpet. The passenger side is usually harder than the driver side. (I helped someone and both were difficult on the passenger side.) Any more questions?
 
Do we know if all model years have the harness installed? I looked on the passenger side, I see some wires for the Sub Woofer down in the right corner, but no harness for a light.:( Checked the left side corner, also came up empty handed. Checked the two passenger seat cut outs for the passenger seat floor lights on left and right side, also no light harness on either side.

Mine is a 2014 S85. So, either I'm not digging far enough, or only certain model years have the extra light harnesses installed.

I see the imprints for a light under the rear L/R passenger doors, appears to be the same set up as the front L/R doors that have lights already. But I don't want to cut any more openings until I confirm that the harnesses are actually there.

Anyone else come up empty handed on this?
 
Hey reynirb. Im not sure about your model year. But i can tell you on my S75 2016 refresh all of the lighting wiring is intact. I installed the lights from Abstract Ocean. They are a perfect fit and they have detailed instructions on their website on how to find the cables. It was very easy to find the ones in the trunk. And I replaced the one in the frunk, and puddle lights on the front doors with these much brighter lights too.

Today i decided to try and check the back doors as well. I had a hard time popping the door panels off. So I decided to cut a hole in the bottom where the light would go to confirm that the cable was there. And i was happy to see the connector just a few inches above the hole. It was taped to some other cables(just like the ones in the trunk) So I decided to take a wire hanger and give it a pull and the tape was very easy to unravel. If it was taped better i probably would have tried harder on popping the door panel off instead.

I hope this helps check out the Abstract Ocean site for their instructions.


2016 Model S 75 | White | Tan Leather | Autopilot | Pano | White Headliner | Sub-Zero | Delivered 9/28/16
Model | Reserved 3/31/16
TSLA Investor
 
reynirb, look again. Feel along the inside lower left and right corner of the trunk for the almost cut out in the fuzzy carpet siding. Right at the corner of the trunk. Or look where the lights are on someone that has the lights already in theirs. Once you find this location, pull the fuzzy carpet siding away from the body so you can get behind the siding. You should find a harness within about 6-8 inches of the almost cut out. The very slender (usually black) connector will be tie wrapped to the harness. It will likely be hard to see, so reach in and feel for it. Be careful you don't cut the harness when releasing the connector. (On the right side is often harder to get the siding out of the way, but with some effort you will.
 
Hey reynirb. Im not sure about your model year. But i can tell you on my S75 2016 refresh all of the lighting wiring is intact. I installed the lights from Abstract Ocean. They are a perfect fit and they have detailed instructions on their website on how to find the cables. It was very easy to find the ones in the trunk. And I replaced the one in the frunk, and puddle lights on the front doors with these much brighter lights too.

Today i decided to try and check the back doors as well. I had a hard time popping the door panels off. So I decided to cut a hole in the bottom where the light would go to confirm that the cable was there. And i was happy to see the connector just a few inches above the hole. It was taped to some other cables(just like the ones in the trunk) So I decided to take a wire hanger and give it a pull and the tape was very easy to unravel. If it was taped better i probably would have tried harder on popping the door panel off instead.

I hope this helps check out the Abstract Ocean site for their instructions.


2016 Model S 75 | White | Tan Leather | Autopilot | Pano | White Headliner | Sub-Zero | Delivered 9/28/16
Model | Reserved 3/31/16
TSLA Investor

Many thanks.:) I ended up digging a bit further after your post, and I had to remove the carpet a lot further than I expected. I thought the harnesses were down in the corners close to the light cut outs, but they ended up being much higher up attached and taped to another harness line.

I had to pull about 2 feet of the side trunk carpet out to find them on each side. They made the side carpet stiffer in the middle of 2014 so it took some force to remove it. After I punched out the cutouts and connected the lights, it took a bit of finagling to make the side carpet snap into place on the right side.

For those looking for the wires in the trunk, I found this video also that did help show the precise locations of the wires:

ELLuminer2—Trunk Lighting for Tesla Model S

I ended up also using the Abstract Ocean lights and they match the OEM Tesla lights exactly, so they snap right in for a nice clean look, despite them being a bit pricey vs the Cutequeen aftermarket lights some people use with the pin connectors.

On the rear doors, there were no lights installed and they are covered with the door Vinyl over the light openings. I had to carefully cut out the vinyl around the opening, and then carefully fish the connector through the hole. The connector is taped to a door sensor harness which in my case was taped using Blue electrical tape. The tape didn't give easily in my case, I had to use a small pick tool to repeatedly pull on the tape until I could tear it and break it free.

For easier access, you can pull the speaker grill off (it snaps off, held on by 4 metal clips) , it gives you an extra entry point, so you can see or use a flash light to fish the wire out.

It definitely takes some time, dedication and minor surgery to install those, they are definitely not plug and play, and not for those who are not keen on yanking carpets out of position and cutting holes into the car.

I spent about 2-3 hours on this so far, and I still have to do the rear seat floor lights under the rear bench seat. I kind of wish I would have documented and taken some pictures of the process for others to follow in the future.
 
reynirb, look again. Feel along the inside lower left and right corner of the trunk for the almost cut out in the fuzzy carpet siding. Right at the corner of the trunk. Or look where the lights are on someone that has the lights already in theirs. Once you find this location, pull the fuzzy carpet siding away from the body so you can get behind the siding. You should find a harness within about 6-8 inches of the almost cut out. The very slender (usually black) connector will be tie wrapped to the harness. It will likely be hard to see, so reach in and feel for it. Be careful you don't cut the harness when releasing the connector. (On the right side is often harder to get the siding out of the way, but with some effort you will.

Thanks Akikiki,

For those looking for the cut outs, I took some pictures so they can have an idea of the light locations in the trunk. Here is also my setup as you will need to crawl under the doors, and before and after on the rear doors. The before picture is after I cut out the Vinyl covering the light opening.
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Yes, you can connect more than one. Remember these LEDs have polarity. They won't work if connected wrong. Just flip it if it doesn't. Yes Tesla specific connectors can be purchased. You will need to read around the threads to find them. I have a thread I started for how I installed the Tesla puddle lights in the parcel shelf brackets and made them look like factory. I can't remember its name - been a while. But look around the part numbers are available in more than none thread.