One of the issues I've had since day one when I first picked up my MXP on April 7th is a pull to the left during hard acceleration. Steering wheel was straight and no pull during static speed.
I swapped tires on both axles left to right and vice versa to eliminate the possibility of a radial pull from a defective tire. Obviously checked tire pressures. No difference.
Happens worse when accelerating from a stop. If I don't turn the wheel to the right, the car will move to the left lane or off the road if I don't compensate.
Other causes would be suspension bushing failure/wear but very unlikely given it's a brand new car. An asymmetrical caster could also cause it yet not pull under static speed. In these cases, the toe is adjusted asymmetrically to counter asymmetric caster which alignment machines will tell you just how to adjust toe for caster in cases where caster can't be adjusted.
I used a 3 plane 360 construction laser to measure precisely the distance from center of hub bolt to hub bolt on each side. The right side was longer than the left by 6 mm.
At the service visit, they did the alignment and confirmed caster was off on one side by quiet a bit. Fortunately the caster is adjustable. They did the alignment:
I assumed at this point the issue was solved but unfortunately as soon as I drove it, it was apparent it was not. Same problem as before. When I got home, I confirmed the alignment by checking the wheel base lengths again and this time they're within a mm which is really good.
The last possible cause other than a failed bushing or a loose suspension component is the torque vector calibration off between the left and right rear motors or a defective rear left DU that isn't pulling as hard as the right DU.
Any more ideas?
I swapped tires on both axles left to right and vice versa to eliminate the possibility of a radial pull from a defective tire. Obviously checked tire pressures. No difference.
Happens worse when accelerating from a stop. If I don't turn the wheel to the right, the car will move to the left lane or off the road if I don't compensate.
Other causes would be suspension bushing failure/wear but very unlikely given it's a brand new car. An asymmetrical caster could also cause it yet not pull under static speed. In these cases, the toe is adjusted asymmetrically to counter asymmetric caster which alignment machines will tell you just how to adjust toe for caster in cases where caster can't be adjusted.
I used a 3 plane 360 construction laser to measure precisely the distance from center of hub bolt to hub bolt on each side. The right side was longer than the left by 6 mm.
At the service visit, they did the alignment and confirmed caster was off on one side by quiet a bit. Fortunately the caster is adjustable. They did the alignment:
I assumed at this point the issue was solved but unfortunately as soon as I drove it, it was apparent it was not. Same problem as before. When I got home, I confirmed the alignment by checking the wheel base lengths again and this time they're within a mm which is really good.
The last possible cause other than a failed bushing or a loose suspension component is the torque vector calibration off between the left and right rear motors or a defective rear left DU that isn't pulling as hard as the right DU.
Any more ideas?
