Have had HPWC for 8 months , all have been well. All of the sudden, car will not charge via HPWC. I removed HPWC and connected via 6-50, still the same. I see 248v but amps, just does not ramp up. I connect to 120v, and the car charges OK. Took car to Tesla service center, they plugged it into their HPWC and it charged fine. Johnathan in Rockville MD, was extremely accommodating. Thanks. Came back home, redid the connections, changed the breaker, no can do. Nothing works. The installer gave me some insanely thick 100A cable, you have to skip a few stands to be able to push into the connectors, both on the HPWC and the 6-50 socket. My breaker is 100A, my panel is 200 Square-D. I moved the breaker one slots down, no dice. Any ideas?
Are you certain the amp setting in the car did not get set to 0 accidentally? (Not sure if it can even be lowered to zero). - - - Updated - - - When you say nothing works...is the car giving an error message? What color is the ring around the charge port? Do you hear the click when inserting the plug?
If you can see 248V at the car, that means your contactor is still working and providing the voltage to the car. Everything else is governed by the car, based on the pilot signal and the car's observation of the stability of the power. When you say "6-50", I'm assuming you mean via your UMC? What is the max amperage you see when you plug both in? Are you seeing "0/80 A" or another max amperage listed on the car? The max should be different on HPWC via UMC if your HPWC is installed with 100A breaker. It could be a power quality problem, but I suspect it's more related to the car's maximum amperage selected, tied to the GPS location of the car. As Todd says, press the buttons to turn the current up while plugged in. Good luck!
I don't have the HPWC, but had a similar problem about a month ago, with the same experience. I had my car about 7 months at that point. My UMC kept giving me a faulty ground signal, and the car would charge on the 110v outlet in my garage, and at the service center, but not on the 240v/40amp which I routinely used. My electrician ended up replacing the ground, which solved the problem temporarily, so for awhile I was going back and forth between my electrician and the SC. Ultimately, it turned out to be a failing 10kW onboard charger, which they were able to diagnosis remotely on the last failed charge. Easy fix, the SC dropped a loaner off to me, switched out the charger, and got my car back to me the same evening.
Car says that it cannot charge. Ring ends up Red after a few tries. I hear a click after inserting which comes from the charge port, then i hear the UMC or the HPWC clicking on and off as it tries a few time to initiate the charge and fails. - - - Updated - - - Yes it is the UMC. If i use 6-50 the car shows 0/40, it tries to go up as far as 12A and then down to 0A. I have tried many different current setting while plugged in. It started at 70A and I changed it down to 30 and down to 15 to see if it changes anything. - - - Updated - - - The latest, 5.6. - - - Updated - - - Would you mind PMing me with something to locate your case. I'd like to get my SC to look at it.
At this point, it could be a component in the car (faulty charger, etc.) or a power quality problem. As it spins up the current, do you see the voltage drop any? Can you try charging at just 5A or even 2A to see if it can hold steady at any current level? The red ring after several tries indicates that the car believes the power quality is poor and cannot charge. I get that if my power fails / blinks multiple times while the car is charging.
No, voltage does not drop as it spins current UP. I tried at 15. I don't think i went down as far as 5.
I've also had a software version cause the exact same problem. You're going to have to engage the SC for them to troubleshoot -- sounds like everything else is in order (e.g. it's probably not your charging setup at home).
Well, I may have a software issue. I got a loaner today, it seems to charge fine in my house. We again tested my car at the SC and it did fine. I noticed that their voltage registers as 209volt (commercial circuit) while at my house the voltage yesterday was 248-249volt. Today the loaner registers 240volt.
There will be a difference between voltage at 0 amps draw and voltage at 40 amps draw (voltage drop across the circuit). I guess with something wrong with the car you could have bad readings, but I would suggest perhaps you have 248V at zero load and 240V under 40A load.