Questions about toe/camber angles after recent alignment and 2 new tires

[peakay]

I'm running -0.4 camber and +0.02 toe all around with my N2itive links, and my RWD P85 car drives comfortably. (it does require slightly more attention and corrections at 75mph, which would be fixed by more like +0.05 toe in the front, but I'm only 40% highway driving so I don't mind.)
I'm very heavy on the throttle, and my rear tires have 35k on them, and still look like more than half their tread life remaining.

Keep in mind the motors pull the tires forward, increasing toe in during acceleration, which can result in slip. I was very adamant during alignment that I wanted rear toe extremely close to zero, not +0.10 or +0.15 listed on N2itive's site
(I first tried +0.15 rear toe and got tire slip around 60% throttle when stopped, but now at +0.02 rear I can go 90% throttle before slipping)

Hi there, maybe you can help me -- I also have a rwd P85 and am getting excessive inner tire wear in the rear. I've ordered N2itive rear camber arms only. On the toe setting, when I look under the car, the eccentrics are set to almost max toe in.

My question: when you lower the car, does it tend to increase toe in or toe out? I'm hoping you want less toe in as if that is the case, I have a lot of adjustment left in the stock eccentrics. If you need more toe in, then I might need the toe arms.

Thanks!

 

[cleverscreenam]

Hello, so you're seeing max toe in, meaning your numbers are high? +0.15, +0.25? As I mentioned, I'm having wonderful tire life at almost zero toe (+0.02). On the rear I would have taken it right to 0 zero if possible, but the tech had already spent a few hours on it and we both considered +0.02 good enough.
I have coil springs, not air suspension. I doubt that raising or lowering the car would change toe (horizontal left-right), all though it definitely changes camber (vertical in-out).

I bought both the n2itive toe and camber arms because I know Tesla stock arms are undersized, stressed, and commonly snap and fail. The n2itive arms are overbuilt strongly and hold up to New England potholes.
In fact, I accidentally "caught air" in my car (and scraped tires as it landed) going too fast over a nasty dip I didn't see, but the arms held strong and didn't lose their alignment settings.

 

[peakay]

Hello, so you're seeing max toe in, meaning your numbers are high?

No, I actually don't know what my current toe readings are. I just see when looking under the car that the eccentric adjusters on the stock toe links are adjusted almost all the way in. What I'm wondering is if my adjusters are already set toward the inside (and assuming my toe settings are ok now), will that mean I run out of adjustment or is that good allowing me to increase the adjusters outward to bring things into spec? Hope this makes sense.

 

[TSLA Pilot]

And, to give the OP more insights, yes, I would also rotate the tires as well.

Yes, FWIW, you ARE supposed to have your best tires at the rear (to avoid oversteer should you hit a puddle, take a curve too fast, etc.) but given your peculiar circumstances, I'd put the tires where you want them, and just take it easy in the wet.

 

[cleverscreenam]

If you hook a tape measure between your treads on the lower front part of rear tires, then do the same on the lower rear part of the rear tires, you can get a rough idea of your toe in/toe out setting.

 

[bb95570]

And, to give the OP more insights, yes, I would also rotate the tires as well.

Yes, FWIW, you ARE supposed to have your best tires at the rear (to avoid oversteer should you hit a puddle, take a curve too fast, etc.) but given your peculiar circumstances, I'd put the tires where you want them, and just take it easy in the wet.

Thanks for this reply. Tire shop ended up recommending reversing the orientation of the rear tires, so the inner wear was on the outside, the fat part on the inside, to give me more wear/life as I wait for the N2itive links. After I get those, install, and do yet another alignment, I'll buy yet 2 more new stock Goodyears, put them on the rear, and monitor wear and rotate all 4 tires regularly. When this set of Goodyears goes I'll invest in a far better set of tires that won't wear out in 20k mi due to excessive inner tire wear... at least that's my plan. Cheers!

 

[peakay]

If you hook a tape measure between your treads on the lower front part of rear tires, then do the same on the lower rear part of the rear tires, you can get a rough idea of your toe in/toe out setting.

Thanks. Yes, was considering trying something like this but not sure if it would be accurate enough. Was also considering putting screws into a large part of the trad, measuring in the front, then rolling backwards so measuring off the same “pins” if you will. Trick will be having a good assistant I guess.

 

[jerry505]

I see this now after posting about my tires wearing fast - P85D Model S. Tesla said I needed tires and a front and rear end alignment. They did this and the new tires continued to wear and I still had that noise - so it was not the sound of bad tires. Now I learn form this thread that the rear on my Model S has no camber adjustment? So, we have to re-engineer our cars? N2itive is a company to go to?

 

[Aggmeister2010]

I see this now after posting about my tires wearing fast - P85D Model S. Tesla said I needed tires and a front and rear end alignment. They did this and the new tires continued to wear and I still had that noise - so it was not the sound of bad tires. Now I learn form this thread that the rear on my Model S has no camber adjustment? So, we have to re-engineer our cars? N2itive is a company to go to?

Yes, correct on both accounts.