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The two 120v outlets you use must be out of phase from each other. Is that the case in your garage? Do you have two separate 120v outlets on two separate breakers in your garage? If not, it won't work.
I bought one, because early on I wanted to be very prepared, and I was willing to be kind of adventurous when there were no Superchargers anywhere near me. I've never actually had an opportunity to use the Quick220. The limitations make it difficult to use conveniently.
Yes, it needs two different 120V circuits on different phases. OK, that's difficult enough, but the "no GFI" requirement is almost the tougher one. Garage outlets in a room that has a water heater are usually required by code to be GFI because they may be subject to water. When I was testing mine out, I tried a garage outlet and one in the house, and found it didn't work. I was then surprised when a day or two later, I opened up the chest freezer and found that it was not very cold, and the stuff was on the verge of thawing because the GFI breaker had tripped--close call.
So, since garage outlets are usually not usable, you have to find two circuits in the house, and then run extension cords through the place, and then out to the garage or driveway where the car is, etc. etc. and it's a big pain in the butt. And to have the most compatibility of many potential outlets, I chose the model for 15A circuits. That yields a 6-15 output, and Tesla does now sell a 6-15 adapter for the UMC.
So yeah, this stuff can work, but it's so cumbersome that it's hard to justify a use case for it. If you really want to charge at a place that's not set up for it, try for a dryer outlet, and if that's not available, I'd say just go for a regular 120V outlet outside or in the garage--way simpler. Besides, on Plugshare or Allstays or something there is usually at least a 14-50 or J1772 you can find somewhere.
Yes, it needs two different 120V circuits on different phases. OK, that's difficult enough, but the "no GFI" requirement is almost the tougher one. Garage outlets in a room that has a water heater are usually required by code to be GFI because they may be subject to water. When I was testing mine out, I tried a garage outlet and one in the house, and found it didn't work. I was then surprised when a day or two later, I opened up the chest freezer and found that it was not very cold, and the stuff was on the verge of thawing because the GFI breaker had tripped--close call.
So, since garage outlets are usually not usable, you have to find two circuits in the house, and then run extension cords through the place, and then out to the garage or driveway where the car is, etc. etc. and it's a big pain in the butt. And to have the most compatibility of many potential outlets, I chose the model for 15A circuits. That yields a 6-15 output, and Tesla does now sell a 6-15 adapter for the UMC.
So yeah, this stuff can work, but it's so cumbersome that it's hard to justify a use case for it. If you really want to charge at a place that's not set up for it, try for a dryer outlet, and if that's not available, I'd say just go for a regular 120V outlet outside or in the garage--way simpler. Besides, on Plugshare or Allstays or something there is usually at least a 14-50 or J1772 you can find somewhere.
K-MTG
Sunshade Captain of TMC
My house was recently built but I found that each of my garage door openers were on a non-GFI independent 20 amp circuit which was perfect for the quick220
Oh, that is a pretty interesting case. They are mounted on the ceiling, right? That is probably why they are exempt from the GFI/water requirement.
K-MTG
Sunshade Captain of TMC
Yup on the ceiling, I also got another one mounted near the attic access in the ceiling of the garage
They still need to be on different phases, but that would just involve moving the breaker in the box. Be sure they are not on GFCI breakers. Also, don't operate the garage door while charging -- .best to unplug them
K-MTG
Sunshade Captain of TMC
Nope, no GFI breakers! My garage door opener uses a max of 4 amps and the quick220 pulls 12 amps and the circuit is rated for 20 amps.
carteriii
Member
For what it's worth, there is a competitor to Quick 220 that I bought and I have used. The model I got is from Steam Brite: Power Joiner Step Up Inverter Takes Dual 20 Amp 115 Volt Outlets to Allow 230 Volt 3 Wire 20 Amp Use
The reason i went with Steam Brite is because I wanted a different connector than Quick 200 provides. In my case, I got an L14-30R because I already have an L14-30 extension cable for use with a portable generator (no I'm not using the generator with my Tesla). The Steam Brite comes with two much longer extension cables to plug into the individual outlets which may be further away from each other.
If you search on their site for just "power joiner step up inverter", you'll see a list with different connectors. This link should do that for you: Steambrite Supply Advanced Search: power joiner step up inverter
The reason i went with Steam Brite is because I wanted a different connector than Quick 200 provides. In my case, I got an L14-30R because I already have an L14-30 extension cable for use with a portable generator (no I'm not using the generator with my Tesla). The Steam Brite comes with two much longer extension cables to plug into the individual outlets which may be further away from each other.
If you search on their site for just "power joiner step up inverter", you'll see a list with different connectors. This link should do that for you: Steambrite Supply Advanced Search: power joiner step up inverter
TonyWilliams
Active Member
Quick 220 is actually patended. I'm confident that when the company that makes Quick 220 is made aware of this unit, they won't be producing it anymore.
Also using a 30 amp receptacle would probably not be normal or even safe, since in nearly every instance, 120 V outlets are on a 15 amp breaker.
Also using a 30 amp receptacle would probably not be normal or even safe, since in nearly every instance, 120 V outlets are on a 15 amp breaker.
carteriii
Member
You are absolutely correct to note that, but to be fair your comment isn't unique to this situation. Almost everyone using the Tesla 14-50 plug with adapters to plug into 30A drier plugs (or anything less than 50A) needs to manually dial down the current to 80% of the supply (e.g. 12A on a 15A breaker). That's what I do. To anyone else reading this thread who isn't comfortable with electrical knowledge, the general warning is that you cannot safely use most ANY adapter from someone other than Tesla without dialing down the current. Even the adapters commonly used and from reputable places require manually dialing down the current.
carteriii
Member
FWIW, I found mention of Quick 220's original patent on their website at Quick 220 Systems - The Company
Looks like it issued November 2, 1999, just over 17 years ago. They may or may not have something newer.
Looks like it issued November 2, 1999, just over 17 years ago. They may or may not have something newer.
Cellsaver
Member
Thanks to some advice from guys on the forums here, I am having a 20 amp/120V receptacle in my garage converted to a 20amp/240V NEMA 6-20 receptacle. I'm having an electrician do it but it sounds pretty easy, you use existing wiring just have to make sure nothing else is on the circuit.
Then you can either buy the Tesla NEMA 6-15 adapter, or you can get the Tesla 5-20 adapter and make a 5-20 to 6-20 cable to take max advantage of your amps. You don't have to dial down your amps either way the UMC will take care of it.
TonyWilliams
Active Member
You're simply reinforcing my caution. I don't recommend putting a Nemo 14-50 plug through an adapter and do anything except a 50 amp or higher rated outlet.
In addition, there are literally thousands of electric vehicles that don't have the option to manually's spin down the amps on the dash instrument.
So, to reiterate, I absolutely do not recommend building adapters are using plugs that are unsafe and could overload the circuit.
Mike M
Member
I'm a little confused (and not an electrician). I have a 14/50 outlet that I plug our Ford C-Max PHEV into (Tesla has a dedicated wall charger). Its on a 30 amp circuit with a clipper creek level 2 J1772 power station plugged in. I've never had an issue with using this setup. If the vehicle draws to much power, isn't that the point of the circuit breaker to trip on an overload? I guess I'm a little confused how a device can "pull more power" than what the circuit breaker allows to be delivered.
davewill
Active Member
I'm guessing your ClipperCreek is designed for a 30a circuit and limited the current, otherwise you would have overloaded the circuit. A circuit breaker is a safety device in case of an accidental overload or short. It's a bad idea to purposely create a situation where an overload is possible. That said, I don't think the adapters are so bad for occasional use where the user can carefully check that the car is set to a safe charging level. I draw the line at daily/permanent use where the car might forget it's charge level setting or the unwary might plug a car in.
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