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Ran out of juice, 12V and main pack drained, need info.

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What a night. Sorry this happened to you.
This needs to be understood better by all.... what is it about the 12v system that does not accept a jump/charge? Is it because the main pak is dead, so the entire e-systems stay down ?
Maybe software fixable ?
 
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the sc now, awesome towing company and will recommend them to the local service centers and phone support. pack is so cold soaked, finally started charging after a hour of pack heating. at 3 amps now. not turning on heat though til it shows some mileage on the meter, slowly climbing in charge speed. 4 amp now. main pack was at 266v when I plugged in, pack heater has been running since plug in. just went up to 15 amps now, the charge bar just jumped a percent. still 0 miles range. I'm afraid the 12 froze now.

though, all windows were up and key fob extended door handles when I got to the car this morning. had to jump it off the tow truck to get center console to wake. first supercharger stall, car would not recognize , someone with a p85+ with nice shiny red calipers was here and left, we reloaded the car on flat bed and moved it over to the stall he charged at. and then port turned green.


odd thing just happened, charging at 25 amps now, packs at 285v, yet, the charge bat went from about 5% and dropped down to 1 or 0%.. still charging though at 8kw now and 28 amps

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I calculate out that each cell in my pack started the day off at 3.1v so I was borderline danger zone for needing a ranger visit after cold soaking all night. 12kw at 40 amp. 292v now
 
I feel you...! How many miles passed the 0mi / charge now ?

I did something similar on my delivery day last year in about 0F temp during the night and with my wife... Drove 10mi past 0mi mark, but made it home fortunately, now I realize what could have been my first night with the car...!

What is different "boosting" the 12V today vs last night ? I was expecting that having an external 12V source would allow the main screen and parking brake working to enable tow mode ?

chargenow.png
 
Ran out of juice, 12v dead, main pack dead, need info.

Glad everyone and the car is safe.
Was there no place to pull over before the car went to zero and call for a tow or a 110V outlet? That way you could still put car in tow mode.
 
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I'm glad things are working out!

As this is all of our worst nightmares, I wouldn't mind mining you for some information. :) Specifically, how far past zero were you able to go?
I got 8 miles past 0 at 230w/mi bit fuzzy now of when that pack heater kicked in, but it sure made a difference, as in would most likely have made it. 60kw battery flat dead =266v or approx 3.11v/cell without knowing exact cell count.
 
Came to this thread late and am glad to know that resolution of your problems has started and is ongoing. When all of this is over, past history, and you have been able to take a deep breath, you may want to sum all of this up in words of advice for the rest of us. We all have lessons to learn. Continued good luck and thanks.
 
I feel you...! How many miles passed the 0mi / charge now ?

I did something similar on my delivery day last year in about 0F temp during the night and with my wife... Drove 10mi past 0mi mark, but made it home fortunately, now I realize what could have been my first night with the car...!

What is different "boosting" the 12V today vs last night ? I was expecting that having an external 12V source would allow the main screen and parking brake working to enable tow mode ?

View attachment 44250

last night was a jump box that the car quickly drained, today, jumper cables directly from the tow truck battery. the main screen did come on with jump box, just would not go out of tow mode.

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Glad everyone and the car is safe.
Was there no place to pull over before the car went to zero and call for a tow or a 110V outlet? That way you could still put car in two mode.
we did, 120v outlet until we had enough to make it, didn't factor pack heater kicking in on a already warm battery(no temp limiting shown). didn't make it to the exit ramp missed the last one as windows fogged up badly into sheets of ice.

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Came to this thread late and am glad to know that resolution of your problems has started and is ongoing. When all of this is over, past history, and you have been able to take a deep breath, you may want to sum all of this up in words of advice for the rest of us. We all have lessons to learn. Continued good luck and thanks.
big tip, if your limited to 30kw accel, it's time to plug in NOW. next tip, the limiters kick in very quickly when it is preparing to shut down, stop sooner then trying to push your luck, so you can still get in tow mode and creep it onto a tow truck, will save
many many many hours of headaches.

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last night was a jump box that the car quickly drained, today, jumper cables directly from the tow truck battery. the main screen did come on with jump box, just would not go out of tow mode.

Oh ok, then probably jumping cables from an ICE car running (battery + alternator) would have been a solution last night, good to know. The trick lies in the fact that the car is a brick until 12V supply is there. Glad its resolving right now, I agree that a good wrap-up and advice should be posted so that this unfortunate event can educate more people on how to manage those kind of event. Thanks for sharing. Having those kind of issues alone is one thing, but with two young kids + wife or grandma is a lot worse! Hope you have a better day today!
 
I got 8 miles past 0 at 230w/mi bit fuzzy now of when that pack heater kicked in, but it sure made a difference, as in would most likely have made it. 60kw battery flat dead =266v or approx 3.11v/cell without knowing exact cell count.

See my post at Battery charge gauge linearity where I did a linear regression data fit of Rated Miles vs Battery %. In that, I came out with 14 rated miles left in an 85 below the zero, "charge now" point based on extrapolating the linear fit. I drove about 1.5 miles past zero in that experiment. It was interesting in the recharge cycle, it had to recharge that below zero amount before anything showed up on the "miles charged" indication. After that the "miles charged" and the rated miles display stayed in lock step.

14 rated miles scaled to a 60 is 14*60/85=10 rated miles. 10 rated miles is very consistent with your 8 miles with battery heating past zero experience.

Remember that this is just one set of data. I will be taking another set of discharge data soon to confirm.
 
See my post at Battery charge gauge linearity where I did a linear regression data fit of Rated Miles vs Battery %. In that, I came out with 14 rated miles left in an 85 below the zero, "charge now" point based on extrapolating the linear fit. I drove about 1.5 miles past zero in that experiment. It was interesting in the recharge cycle, it had to recharge that below zero amount before anything showed up on the "miles charged" indication. After that the "miles charged" and the rated miles display stayed in lock step.

14 rated miles scaled to a 60 is 14*60/85=10 rated miles. 10 rated miles is very consistent with your 8 miles with battery heating past zero experience.

Remember that this is just one set of data. I will be taking another set of discharge data soon to confirm.

This is very consistent with my own experience. I did 16km (10mi) past 0mi mark and my power limit was at about 45kW, islandbayy just confirmed that the car shutdown occurred when limiter hits 30kW, so I should have been able to do 4 more miles approx. It all depends on current consumption, but like islandbayy, I was already running without any HVAC (not even seats heater) with all frozen windows and a little circle of ice free for front view, and doing like 20mph! So it was extreme hypermiling already...

IMG_2430_small.JPG
 
It makes sense that a jump pack would be drained fairly quickly, especially those that are of the cheaper variety. Once the car has completely shut down, I imagine the start-up sequence prior to offering the ability to release the parking brake takes a considerable amount of power, to power up all the modules, check consistencies, etc. Given that many cheap packs have only 10-20 Ah, and that a few hundred watts can exhaust that in a matter of 5-10 minutes, I can imagine a scenario where it just simply wouldn't work.
 
You guys are crazy :tongue:

And I thought my 40 Mph on 280(S.F.) to get ~>2mi past 'charge now' was bad!

I agree, but I'm happy others that hit the limit are reporting their results so the rest of us can stay away from difficulties like IslandBayy encountered. I have arrived at my garage door as the display changed from one to "charge now" once before. I was a little nervous going 1.5 miles below zero yesterday, but figured I was OK in my own neighborhood with a warm battery in 50˚F., sunny weather.

It's important to know the limits. These tales do tell me that aiming to get to a charge stop with an estimated zero miles left is OK as long as the error in that estimate is less than a few miles.

Let's all learn from IslandBayy's experience and never let this happen to a Tesla driver again!

IslandBayy, thanks for your reporting of the details in the presence of these extreme difficulties!! I'm glad things are finally returning to normal for you.
 
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I am very happy for you Islandbayy that things are coming back to normal now. It is an experience all of us will like to avoid and details will just make us aware about the issues. Of course you will be telling the gory details about how it happened like this and should you have done anything different.
 
It makes sense that a jump pack would be drained fairly quickly, especially those that are of the cheaper variety. Once the car has completely shut down, I imagine the start-up sequence prior to offering the ability to release the parking brake takes a considerable amount of power, to power up all the modules, check consistencies, etc. Given that many cheap packs have only 10-20 Ah, and that a few hundred watts can exhaust that in a matter of 5-10 minutes, I can imagine a scenario where it just simply wouldn't work.

I've always wondered how many amps are necessary at the 12v posts to power up the car if the 12v battery was dead or near dead. Assuming the main pack has juice (and not islandbayy's scenario where both the 12v and the main pack are dead), anyone hazard a guess how much power is necessary to go through the steps to throw the relay on the traction pack?

Glad to see that your pack is charging, islandbayy...
 
Survivor Tales from the Wild! Indeed, All's well that ends well. It's amazing this car stands for all this. A GMC would be sitting at some local dealer who was writing my estimate ... !

Enjoyed your pictures @islandbayy of Niagra Falls and BubbleHead Nikola ! He was your good luck charm.