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Ran out of juice, 12V and main pack drained, need info.

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Main pack was at 266v would indicate 2.66 volt per cell, According to me, 400 volt full soc maybe even 420 volt


Nope, islandbayy has it right I think. 85kWh pack configuration is 96 cells in series x 74 parallel, organized in 16 modules. One module has voltage from 6 cells in series. 60kWh pack has 14 modules, so pack voltage = 84x cell voltage. 266V / 84 equals 3.16 Volts.
 
After reading all of this, the option that I would like to have is the ability, when stationary, to have the motor inverters produce enough electrical output to drive a 14-50 outlet (equivalent outlet in other parts of the world) in the car. As more Tesla's are on the road, it would allow one Tesla to provide power for an emergency charge to another Tesla, plus allow a great source of backup power during power outages. 50A contactors only cost 10's of dollars to make this intermittent connection when needed.

This is the electrical equivalent of siphoning gas from one ICE car to put in another. I've done this several times in cars, trucks, and snowmobiles to help others. Luckily, I have never had to ask for such help...

I understand the reluctance of Tesla to do utility load balancing on a daily basis; that is a huge cycle load on the battery. However, those big inverters are already there to power the drive motor; why not give the option to tap some of that power to help other Teslas and provide emergency power when needed.

Imagine Tesla central being able to send out text messages to Tesla owners within possible range to help. To keep this from being abused, Tesla could charge the equivalent of a tow charge for the matchmaking/dispatch service and offer the donor car that dollar amount (or more!) as a Good Samaritan credit towards future service and accessories. This would make a pretty awesome self-supporting system of EV's.

I like this idea.
 
And for GOD'S SAKE, will people QUIT trying to figure out how much 'reserve there is past zero'!!! Zero is ZERO.

Leaving God out of it, it's obvious that zero is NOT zero. I totally agree that people shouldn't plan for going past zero (or anywhere near it), but I find it valuable to know how my car works precisely.

About six months ago I was 15 miles away from home and had 15 miles of rated range left. I freaked out, was scared to death, and scrambled to find a place to charge. I had never gone that low before and did not want to chance hitting zero. With this accurate knowledge I probably would have continued home very slowly, knowing that the car would not shut down the very second it hit zero.
 
i am charging in Angola now, then Mishawaka in about 1 hr 30 minutes. I will clear up some fuzyness on the topic when I get home instead of slowly tapping on my iphone.
But, If I wasn't clear on it, rqed mart, I did pull off the freeway and charged enough on a 120v to make it to the SC. Where I was, the distance to level 2's I found were the same or further distance then going to the SC. On top of that, the pack was already warm, their was no temp limiting at all, no regen limit, nothing, I had full 60 kW regen. That is why I was so surprised, and was not expecting the pack heater to kick in.
Coming from niagra, which was only 216 miles from Macedonia sc, I was doing 55mph or less the whole route, and stopped and charged on a BMW dealers brand new charge point for 5 hrs in Erie, PA. after leaving their, I limped along with a 40 mile buffer to make it to Macedonia. We ran into extremely high winds, and had miles upon miles of uphill driving. I was on that strech averaging 290 to 300 w/mile, which is 1 to 1 or slightly better. it was just crazy that despite that, range kept dropping, the hills finally got me. by the time all was said, started looking for a level 2. unfortunately, the exits are few and far between in that area. and, due to I wing windshield reducing visibility, I managed to get moved into the express lane, which blocked my access to exits for a long period, causing me to miss the most easily accessible level 2's. to back track to them would have been further or same distance as going to the sc at that point, which is where the 120v charging comes in. pack was hot, thought I had enough at 230 w/mile to make it, would have then the heater kicked in, and my energy usage went sky high despite a warm pack that was just driven 200 miles.

I do take responsibility and should have planned thing out better, I'm not denying that. thread started askingb opinions on when the car gets bricked and needs a service center. I need to leave now so will check in later.
 

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Leaving God out of it, it's obvious that zero is NOT zero. I totally agree that people shouldn't plan for going past zero (or anywhere near it), but I find it valuable to know how my car works precisely.

About six months ago I was 15 miles away from home and had 15 miles of rated range left. I freaked out, was scared to death, and scrambled to find a place to charge. I had never gone that low before and did not want to chance hitting zero. With this accurate knowledge I probably would have continued home very slowly, knowing that the car would not shut down the very second it hit zero.

Exactly! Not planning to go below zero is a good approach to trip planning. However, stuff happens. The time I arrived at my garage door with the "Charge Now!" warning was at the end of a 237 mile hypermile adventure. My preplanning showed that I would make it with 20 miles to spare. I had preplanned several RV parks to stop at if charge got short. I knew that there was a place in town (8 miles and 14 rated miles from my house) where I could get my electrician to rig something up for me, but it would be an evening hassle for both of us. This was before we both worked hard to get the 70A J a couple of blocks from the highway in Pagosa. The headwinds were way worse than expected, and I passed through town with 14 or so rated miles. If zero were truly zero, I would have stopped, taken the couple of hours, and rigged up the charger in town and not risked a last leg to my house with an expected arrival of zero miles. However, I knew that there were several miles reserve, had done the drive many times, and knew that the error was only +/- a couple of miles on what I needed to get home. With my detailed, local knowledge, and knowing that the reserve was there, I was confident to just drive on home and not take the 1-2 hours to get the charging started and actually charge. As it turned out, the "Charge Now!" warning came on as I arrived at my garage. If it had that warning a couple of miles earlier, I would have still made it. If my calculations said that I needed 12 of 14 reserve miles to make it, I would have stopped and charged.

More knowledge is always better. With that knowledge, we have to make our decisions based on our own risk tolerance and potential consequences to ourselves and those with us. I think that I would have put a few more miles in the battery than IslandBayy did, but "Hindsight is always 20/20" (6/6 for our metric folks). :wink:
 
Leaving God out of it, it's obvious that zero is NOT zero. I totally agree that people shouldn't plan for going past zero (or anywhere near it), but I find it valuable to know how my car works precisely.

About six months ago I was 15 miles away from home and had 15 miles of rated range left. I freaked out, was scared to death, and scrambled to find a place to charge. I had never gone that low before and did not want to chance hitting zero. With this accurate knowledge I probably would have continued home very slowly, knowing that the car would not shut down the very second it hit zero.

Yes but if they did that then someone would test it, leave their car disabled for too long and ruin the battery. It would be nice to know exactly how far last zero you can go but the accuracy people want probably isn't there. Once you hit the true zero should Tesla leave an additional buffer to protect the pack? If so then why not have access to that as well? I think the main point still stands zero means you should stop or know that from that point on your car could stop in 100 feet or 10 miles. Also, leaving some pack left to run the heat, get car into tow mode...etc is valuable.
 
I think you misunderstand. If you have to go find a a charger you failed to plan appropriately. And if others' lives are at steak you better have a damn solid plan.

Even in summer I plan for 360wh/mi. 20% is a reasonable buffer to do what I can to prevent thousands of people seeing a tesla on the side of the road... Because they will always assume owner stupidity.
 
....the pack was already warm,......pack was hot.....a warm pack....

Just curious: How do you see pack temperature? I'm on FW 5.8.7 and don't see it anywhere.


We ran into extremely high winds, and had miles upon miles of uphill driving......the hills finally got me.

Biggest range killers are elevation and bad weather. I know that sounds like 20/20 hindsight but the most valuable part of your experience is the learning that everyone can share.
 
We all love our cars and want to drive them anywhere and everywhere, but this trip just sounds like pushing a 60 beyond its reasonable limits in any weather, let alone in the dead of winter and with multiple family members in the car. Until there are Superchargers on every highway and at intervals that even a 60 could do comfortably uphill and into the wind, we either have to build in buffer and expect to have the unexpected when it comes to hills, wind and bad weather -- or (gasp), you just don't take the MS on the trip in the first place (or you trade in your 60 for an 85). 230 Wh/mile one minute might be 380 Wh/mile the next when traveling on roads over which you're not familiar -- and winds kill range just as much.
 
i am charging in Angola now, then Mishawaka in about 1 hr 30 minutes. I will clear up some fuzyness on the topic when I get home instead of slowly tapping on my iphone.
But, If I wasn't clear on it, rqed mart, I did pull off the freeway and charged enough on a 120v to make it to the SC. Where I was, the distance to level 2's I found were the same or further distance then going to the SC. On top of that, the pack was already warm, their was no temp limiting at all, no regen limit, nothing, I had full 60 kW regen. That is why I was so surprised, and was not expecting the pack heater to kick in.
Coming from niagra, which was only 216 miles from Macedonia sc, I was doing 55mph or less the whole route, and stopped and charged on a BMW dealers brand new charge point for 5 hrs in Erie, PA. after leaving their, I limped along with a 40 mile buffer to make it to Macedonia. We ran into extremely high winds, and had miles upon miles of uphill driving. I was on that strech averaging 290 to 300 w/mile, which is 1 to 1 or slightly better. it was just crazy that despite that, range kept dropping, the hills finally got me. by the time all was said, started looking for a level 2. unfortunately, the exits are few and far between in that area. and, due to I wing windshield reducing visibility, I managed to get moved into the express lane, which blocked my access to exits for a long period, causing me to miss the most easily accessible level 2's. to back track to them would have been further or same distance as going to the sc at that point, which is where the 120v charging comes in. pack was hot, thought I had enough at 230 w/mile to make it, would have then the heater kicked in, and my energy usage went sky high despite a warm pack that was just driven 200 miles.

I do take responsibility and should have planned thing out better, I'm not denying that. thread started askingb opinions on when the car gets bricked and needs a service center. I need to leave now so will check in later.
It's odd that the pack heater came on
Did you turn on "range mode"?
It shuts off battery heater when it's on
 
How do you guys tell that the pack heater is on? Are you inferring this by the increase in energy use, or is there some other notification I'm not aware of?
It actually tells you at the bottom of the instrument cluster, right below range and also there is little red "i" icon on top of the screen
Plus the usage is going up. You see in in your speedo, when in idle or in neutral
 
It actually tells you at the bottom of the instrument cluster, right below range and also there is little red "i" icon on top of the screen
Plus the usage is going up. You see in in your speedo, when in idle or in neutral

Ahh yes, I've had that warning several times. However I also have extremely high energy usage when I first drive the car in the cold where I don't have that alert. Is that not the pack heater eating up all those miles?