jpbelair66
Member
Thank youNo, not at all. Residential electricity is by the quantity of energy used, not by how fast you use it. It doesn't have the peak power demand charges like some industrial plans use, which @Candleflame mentioned.
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Thank youNo, not at all. Residential electricity is by the quantity of energy used, not by how fast you use it. It doesn't have the peak power demand charges like some industrial plans use, which @Candleflame mentioned.
When the sun is shining and the panels are providing power, how many amps do you have yours charging at?On the weekends when I am home I use the extra power from my solar panels to charge my car. Other then that you have to watch the time of day you charge depending on your electric rates.
Everybody's situation is going to be different! I have only had my solar for 2 months and the max I could set my charge to so far is 12 amps so it does not pull from the grid. I recently installed an Emporia Energy charger to go with their whole home energy monitoring device I have and it is supposed to be able to charge the car using the excess solar on its own but is not working 100% and they are looking into the issue. Before I got the charger I would have to change the rate of charge in the Tesla app throughout the day to set what I was able to draw only using the solar.When the sun is shining and the panels are providing power, how many amps do you have yours charging at?
For example, if your panels are only producing 20a worth of power and your are pulling 30a, you would be pulling from the grid ,yes?
I know I need to convert to watts/KWh but you get what I’m asking?
And yes, no charging between 4pm-9pm
This has been said/posted a lot of times by me. I guess some is about to get tired of seeing the same graph.
[snip]
If you look at this graph( taken from a research report), 9.6 months at 25C causes a capacity loss of about 5% for a SOC of 60% or more. This graph should be read as *The time my car spends at a given SOC*, or average SOC when the car isnt in use.
There’s a sharp step at 55 to 60% where calendar aging increases much. Staying below this literally cut the calendar aging in half( at least).
View attachment 738269
Theres one thing more that is good with low SOC: the lower a cycle is in the SOC range, the lower the cyclic aging is. From research we know that a small cycle around 70% causes five times higher degradation than the same size of cycle at 30% (600 Full Equivalent Cycles) caused 10% degradation when cycled around 70% but only 2% when cycled around 30%. The battery can do five times more miles if cycled at low SOC than at high SOC. And still use the same size of the cycle, so the only thing changed is were in the SOC range it takes place.
This still counts for a quite small part of the total degradation so it isnt the main reason to stay at low SOC when possible.
1) Within normal limits, not very much. If you would discharge the whole cycle at 4C, then the cyclic wear will be higher and the battery life shorter. But short bursts of 10-20s will be a very little part of a full 4C cycle. 4C means emptying the battery in 15 minutes, thats 900s. So you would need about 90 full thottle runs 0-200km/h or 0-120mph with a model 3P to equal one 4C discharge cycle. (Just using mental arithmetic with a simplyfied 4C = full throttle to create an example so it is not an exact calculation). So after 900 quarter mile runs, it equals about 10 4C discharge cycles. The wear from this is not very high.Hey there - love the chart and explanations.
Two questions -
1. Do driving patterns have any substantial impact on battery life over the miles? for example, a higher C-Rate discharge should age Lithium faster, but not sure if frequent hard acceleration from 0-80 or whatever actually matters statistically? (on a LR AWD Boost, 40mph-80mph might hit 4C for example)
2. There's an article (Below) from Battery University that seems to indicate that while keeping voltage down to around 3.92V is good to reduce electrolyte oxidation (EO), going too far below 3.92V starts increasing another type of capacity loss due to "Growth of solid electrolyte interface" (SEI). Shouldn't we see a tick up on the low end for the storage test if this is the case? i.e. maybe 30-55% is the sweet spot for longevity, but 5-10% should be worse than 30-55%?
Source for #2: BU-808b: What Causes Li-ion to Die?
Thanks!
Hey there - love the chart and explanations.
Two questions -
1. Do driving patterns have any substantial impact on battery life over the miles? for example, a higher C-Rate discharge should age Lithium faster, but not sure if frequent hard acceleration from 0-80 or whatever actually matters statistically? (on a LR AWD Boost, 40mph-80mph might hit 4C for example)
2. There's an article (Below) from Battery University that seems to indicate that while keeping voltage down to around 3.92V is good to reduce electrolyte oxidation (EO), going too far below 3.92V starts increasing another type of capacity loss due to "Growth of solid electrolyte interface" (SEI). Shouldn't we see a tick up on the low end for the storage test if this is the case? i.e. maybe 30-55% is the sweet spot for longevity, but 5-10% should be worse than 30-55%?
Source for #2: BU-808b: What Causes Li-ion to Die?
Thanks!
It's all about time spent at SOC - if you don't spend much time above 55% SOC, it's not a big deal. If you need the range, charge it up as high as you need, just try to discharge it below 55% sooner. Based on @AAKEE's previously posted data, it seems that 55% should be noticeably better than 60% as there appears to be a bit of a step function between 55-60%.View attachment 742932
From a different article that made the same point, I decided to charge up to 60% SOC at home; but I do charge higher when necessary, like today; went skiing had to charge up to 80%, then 75% at the Supercharger. So far, it works for me.
Yep, no doubt, but since I started with 60% back in Summer 2019, as an experiment, I thought I should keep it going.It's all about time spent at SOC - if you don't spend much time above 55% SOC, it's not a big deal. If you need the range, charge it up as high as you need, just try to discharge it below 55% sooner. Based on @AAKEE's previously posted data, it seems that 55% should be noticeably better than 60% as there appears to be a bit of a step function between 55-60%.
All that said - with Maine's cool temperatures, it probably doesn't make that much of a difference.
I have not driven a set distance to compare, I will do it though thanks. I am basing this solely off of range estimates and percentages.Do you know that you have *actually* lost 10% of your range (i.e have you charged to a reference SOC and drove a reference distance/route and SOC drops more than it did a year ago), or are you basing this solely on the (now likely more accurate - or less inaccurate) range estimate?