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Range loss

Charged my MS 70 at home for the first time last night. Had it set to start charge at 1AM, so when I woke up this morning (7AM) I checked my mobile app which told me I was full at 209 miles. Checked it out of curiosity around 10am and it said 205 miles. Now checked again at 11:30 and it says 204. Is this an odd amount of loss? Or is this the rated range calculation making adjustments?

Little worried about it. Anyone else see this kind of activity?
 
Charged my MS 70 at home for the first time last night. Had it set to start charge at 1AM, so when I woke up this morning (7AM) I checked my mobile app which told me I was full at 209 miles. Checked it out of curiosity around 10am and it said 205 miles. Now checked again at 11:30 and it says 204. Is this an odd amount of loss? Or is this the rated range calculation making adjustments?

Little worried about it. Anyone else see this kind of activity?

Yeah that seems like too much phantom loss unless you turned up something that would draw down energy.
 
Charged my MS 70 at home for the first time last night. Had it set to start charge at 1AM, so when I woke up this morning (7AM) I checked my mobile app which told me I was full at 209 miles. Checked it out of curiosity around 10am and it said 205 miles. Now checked again at 11:30 and it says 204. Is this an odd amount of loss? Or is this the rated range calculation making adjustments?

Little worried about it. Anyone else see this kind of activity?

There is no reason to worry about this, it is normal if you don't have any of the energy saving features enable. I have all of the energy saving features enabled, and I lose on average 2 miles of rated range per day. This goes up to 8 with energy saving features disabled. If you ping your car with the phone app or use visible Tesla, the energy loss increases as well.
 
You can check out the "vampire drain" threads for a lot more detail, but basically, you can expect some loss because the car wakes up every so often to do things. There are some settings that you can change to reduce the vampire drain such as sleep mode and always connected.
 
This is normal. The car charges until it reaches the SOC it's set for, then doesn't charge again for some period of time. During that time, vampire losses due to various drains (an S is never totally OFF) reduce the displayed rated range. Read any of the many threads on vampire losses if you're interested.
 
Ok great to know thanks. I've been reading a ton of range loss threads but I couldn't seem to find anything that was completely similar.

I'm using the Tesla app on iPhone. Maybe a dumb question, but does it help to fully quit the app on the phone anytime it's used?
 
Charged my 90D to 90% this morning. Finished at 3 am 249.80 miles. Right now it is still plugged in and it's at 249.77 (which is a little better than usual). VT, Remote S, a Tesla app are a all pinging it 24/7. Not sure why the OP lost 5 miles in less time.
 
How come it charged more than what you set it for?
As discussed in the 90D Range Thread, I still believe it's a rounding problem of some sort in Tesla's present algorithm or the way they choose to present the data on some of the interfaces... My rated range goes up/down by a mile (or 2) sometimes within seconds or minutes, with no other physical car interaction taking place, aircon/heating or charging coming on either.
 
As discussed in the 90D Range Thread, I still believe it's a rounding problem of some sort in Tesla's present algorithm or the way they choose to present the data on some of the interfaces... My rated range goes up/down by a mile (or 2) sometimes within seconds or minutes, with no other physical car interaction taking place, aircon/heating or charging coming on either.

I've had it go down by a couple miles many times but never has mine gone up and we basically have the same car delivered around the same date. Weird.

SOC is really just an estimate.

I'm beginning to understand that but I've never experienced setting the slider to 90 or 100 and ending up with 101 yet.
 
I wondered the same thing. I've only recently started to use VT. When I checked the state of charge on it last night, and it read 91% I wondered if the car showed it as 90% but I was too lazy to go check.

I've found the slider to give me anything from 88 (once) but normally 89 or 91. Sometimes I'll hit 90 on the nose (and then the slider stays at 90 until I play with it again). Using VT or Remote S and entering the number 90 is far more "accurate". Of course, then we get back to the estimated actual SOC and predicted rated miles/k's... so we're back to measuring tablespoons with the accuracy of a shovel. Or something like that.
 
I had "Energy Saving" off and "Always Connected" on so I've enabled the ES and disabled Always Connected. Assuming that I'll see an improvement from here.

I have it like you do now except "Always Connected" is set to on under the theory that while plugged in (not necessarily charging though) the cell connectivity won't be drawing from the battery but instead from the house current. Does anyone know if my theory is correct?
 
I had "Energy Saving" off and "Always Connected" on so I've enabled the ES and disabled Always Connected. Assuming that I'll see an improvement from here.
I have details in another thread here on TMC from tests I did with my 90D and each combination of energy saving and always connected. In my findings, "Always connected CHECKED" has minimal impact on vampire loss -- IIRC about 1 mile rated range per day, so to keep your Tesla App fairly responsive, IMHO that is a good choice and what I use. OTOH, if you can put up with a few seconds wait while the displays become active upon getting into your MS and before taking off, leaving "Energy Saving ON" will save you perhaps 6-7 rated range per day -- again, that's my choice and for me a great compromise.

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I have it like you do now except "Always Connected" is set to on under the theory that while plugged in (not necessarily charging though) the cell connectivity won't be drawing from the battery but instead from the house current. Does anyone know if my theory is correct?
IMHO, the draw from "Always Connected CHECKED" is so small, MS does not go to the trouble trying to pull from my HPWC for just that... At least in my tests, my HPWC does not remain on all the time with its moving green Cylon Eye to compensate. If I keep my MS plugged-in, but don't drive it for a day or two, my MS will not retain the 90% charge every day it is set to when vampire loss is only 1-2 rated range/day... Instead, while my 90D is set to charge at 12:00AM every day to 90% and has not been driven, it tends to wait until it's down by something around 7-8 miles before pulling the charge back up... not before. OTOH, if I turn on the air conditioning or something big like that, MS will pull current from my HPWC, and IIRC (could be mistaken) it will try to top off the charge again the next night as if I had even briefly driven the car. To me, Tesla's attention to detail on those little things make a lot of sense trying to balance what the owner wants, vs what is probably most efficient considering everything involved.
 
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I have it like you do now except "Always Connected" is set to on under the theory that while plugged in (not necessarily charging though) the cell connectivity won't be drawing from the battery but instead from the house current. Does anyone know if my theory is correct?
I don't believe the cell draws enough electricity to use shore power. As far as I know only charging and preheating or precooking use shore power.
I set mine to energy saving on and always connected off.
 

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