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RB rotor kit install - nonPUP

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Sam1

Active Member
Sep 11, 2019
2,607
2,655
NV
Throwing together a bit of info on the RB rotors for the P3- standard sized kit, looking to do this for removing as much unsprung rotational mass as possible ...

OEM front rotor hat is +/- 7.5mm thick
RB rotor hat is +/- 6.9mm thick
(didn't measure OEM rotor thickness, had wear on it so it wouldn't be a good reading)
RB rotor plate was 26mm thick
OEM front rotor came in at 21.2 pounds
RB front rotor came in at 14.8 pounds
Total weight reduction on the front 12.8 pounds

Only issue with install was the right side rotor was coming in contact with the dust guard under cornering, sanded it down a bit to resolve.

Will add rear rotor info later once those are on. Had technical difficulties with it last night; couldn't get the piston compressed enough (RB's are thicker), and apparently you need to externally power up the motor to retract it further.


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I recently swapped mine to MPP. To change the rear, I put the car in tow mode. This allowed me to remove the caliper without the parking brake activating. After removing caliper bolts, I rocked the calipers on the rotors to open them up. Tow mode lasts 20 minutes, probably enough time, but I disconnected the electrics to be sure. I removed the shields altogether.
 
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I recently swapped mine to MPP. To change the rear, I put the car in tow mode. This allowed me to remove the caliper without the parking brake activating. After removing caliper bolts, I rocked the calipers on the rotors to open them up. Tow mode lasts 20 minutes, probably enough time, but I disconnected the electrics to be sure. I removed the shields altogether.

Yeah I did this exact thing, no luck.
 
Finally got the rears on today. Have a significant traction problem in track mode now with the rwd power. Thing breaks the tires loose at 40mph going in a straight line.

Going to drop some tire pressures and try some 0-60 times later, expecting them to be slower than previous runs though but that was sort of expected on the Continentals. If it actually hooks up, it'll definitely be in the 2.9sec range with rollout. Pretty surprised at the difference these things made.
 
Finally got the rears on today. Have a significant traction problem in track mode now with the rwd power. Thing breaks the tires loose at 40mph going in a straight line.

Going to drop some tire pressures and try some 0-60 times later, expecting them to be slower than previous runs though but that was sort of expected on the Continentals. If it actually hooks up, it'll definitely be in the 2.9sec range with rollout. Pretty surprised at the difference these things made.


Wow the rotors alone made that kind of difference?
 
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Can you further clarify how much weight saving mods you've done so far? Also what made you want to go with RB motors over MPP or unplugged? And are you on stock rims and tires?

Went with RB because they were the lightest. I don't do road courses, so huge brakes to deal with excessive heat from repetitive hard braking was irrelevant in my case. car is currently stock 19" rims, stock continentals. I do have a set of MW03 18"s on order though, and once they are in, I'll be using the Pirello PZ4 sport, which is around 1 pound lighter each than the Continentals. With everything added together, it's going to be right at 50 pounds unsprung rotational mass removed total for the car. The rotors removed +/- 20lb, the wheels will remove +/- 28lb, and the tires will remove +/- 4lb
 
With everything added together, it's going to be right at 50 pounds unsprung rotational mass removed total for the car.

That’s an impressive chunk of mass dropped.

Are you considering doing anything in the interior? I believe someone here was able to dropped a few hundred really easily with rear seats. The frunk bucket should be fine to pull, too.

Easy weight vs effort as things you can put back in after. That’s all sprung, and probably not quite as much in equivalent, but dropping say +/-8% of total mass gets you down the strip measurably faster.
 
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Went with RB because they were the lightest. I don't do road courses, so huge brakes to deal with excessive heat from repetitive hard braking was irrelevant in my case. car is currently stock 19" rims, stock continentals. I do have a set of MW03 18"s on order though, and once they are in, I'll be using the Pirello PZ4 sport, which is around 1 pound lighter each than the Continentals. With everything added together, it's going to be right at 50 pounds unsprung rotational mass removed total for the car. The rotors removed +/- 20lb, the wheels will remove +/- 28lb, and the tires will remove +/- 4lb
Any pics of the setup? Would love to see since no one is rocking this right now
 
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Finally got the rears on today. Have a significant traction problem in track mode now with the rwd power. Thing breaks the tires loose at 40mph going in a straight line.

Going to drop some tire pressures and try some 0-60 times later, expecting them to be slower than previous runs though but that was sort of expected on the Continentals. If it actually hooks up, it'll definitely be in the 2.9sec range with rollout. Pretty surprised at the difference these things made.

How did you resolve spreading the pads out to get them on?

Wasn’t it determined that the car isn’t torque limited so reducing rotating mass has negligible effect on acceleration?
 
How did you resolve spreading the pads out to get them on?

Wasn’t it determined that the car isn’t torque limited so reducing rotating mass has negligible effect on acceleration?

Local Tesla tuner installed them. He was an engineer for Tesla for a few years and knew how to address it. I didn't feel comfortable powering up the parking brake with an external battery as recommended here.

As for the car's torque limitations; lightening up the corners will help once the car is off its peak torque. Less weight = less power needed to rotate the wheels. I can feel the difference in acceleration when starting at highway speeds. As for the bottom end, I wasn't expecting a ton of gains, because it's hard to balance reduction in weight, getting the tires to stick, keeping traction control from nerfing the power, and not creating too much rolling resistance on the top end. It's just a trial and error thing... Not much info out there on this, because most people doing this are more focused on a road course setup with wide and sticky tires & no concern for straightline speed.

145mph in the 1/2 mile is all I'm shooting for.it will probably require some aero, and/or painter's tape over a few parts of the car. But that's my goal.