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Vendor Rear Adjustable Camber Bushings for Model S/X Group Buy

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What do you mean the rotor was in the way? The brake rotor? I'm not sure I understand how that could be in the way of the inner mounting bolt. When I did mine, it was just a ratchet on one end, and a box wrench on the other.


FYI, before you install the replacement links, make sure you set them to the same length as the stock links...that way your car drives straight until you have time to get an alignment.

And since you're using fixed lowering links, you'll want to install the aftermarket camber arms with the adjustment side facing OUT (towards wheel). That's the only way to make sure that your camber adjustment doesn't move the ride height sensor mounting point, thus raising the car in the back. Makes adjusting the camber a little more annoying (wheel needs to come off), but that won't be a problem for a performance alignment shop and it's still less annoying than having Tesla reset your ride height every time you get an alignment.

IIRC, each half turn of the adjustment arm moves your camber value by 0.1 degrees in either direction
What I meant is my to get my ratchet on the bolt and have enough leverage to turn the bolt the brake disc would come in the way (it’s a fairly long ratchet) . Going to take a stab at this again Sunday and see if I can gain better access to the bolt, or use a shorter ratchet.

Thanks for the tips and removal guide!
 
What I meant is my to get my ratchet on the bolt and have enough leverage to turn the bolt the brake disc would come in the way (it’s a fairly long ratchet) . Going to take a stab at this again Sunday and see if I can gain better access to the bolt, or use a shorter ratchet.

Thanks for the tips and removal guide!

Ah, ok. Yeah a shorter ratchet or wrench may be the ticket for you here. Should be very easy with that.
 
What do you mean the rotor was in the way? The brake rotor? I'm not sure I understand how that could be in the way of the inner mounting bolt. When I did mine, it was just a ratchet on one end, and a box wrench on the other.


FYI, before you install the replacement links, make sure you set them to the same length as the stock links...that way your car drives straight until you have time to get an alignment.

And since you're using fixed lowering links, you'll want to install the aftermarket camber arms with the adjustment side facing OUT (towards wheel). That's the only way to make sure that your camber adjustment doesn't move the ride height sensor mounting point, thus raising the car in the back. Makes adjusting the camber a little more annoying (wheel needs to come off), but that won't be a problem for a performance alignment shop and it's still less annoying than having Tesla reset your ride height every time you get an alignment.

IIRC, each half turn of the adjustment arm moves your camber value by 0.1 degrees in either direction
Surely you’ve got pics post install right? 👌
 
Surely you’ve got pics post install right? 👌
CVY9INj.jpg
 
And since you're using fixed lowering links, you'll want to install the aftermarket camber arms with the adjustment side facing OUT (towards wheel). That's the only way to make sure that your camber adjustment doesn't move the ride height sensor mounting point, thus raising the car in the back. Makes adjusting the camber a little more annoying (wheel needs to come off), but that won't be a problem for a performance alignment shop and it's still less annoying than having Tesla reset your ride height every time you get an alignment.
if you're using adjustable links do you still recommend mounting the adjustment OUT?
 
Yes. Otherwise, your car would lower itself as you adjust the camber to be more neutral, and throw your values off. Even if you put it in Jack mode, you’d still have to readjust the rear height with every alignmfnt. Up to you, but that’s my 2 cents.
I think your recommendation is the correct way vs it being backwards. We only want ONE thing to change when adjusting, so keeping the lowering link ball joint fixed is paramount.
 
Just spent some time understanding the design of the adjustment mechanism. Couldn’t figure out/understand how to extend the outer end besides actually rotating/unscrewing it, which you obviously can’t do once installed.
Long-story-short, finally deduced that the middle nut is the one that extends/retracts the outer joint while the other two are the locking nuts. Noob moment, but all good now. :)
 
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Can I get a alignment at any shop? Or does it have to be a Tesla SC?
Tesla will align to their spec which is probably not what you want. Have your local shop set the alignment to the minimum Tesla allows at your most often used ride height (usually "low"). Note the shop has to know how to get the pan off the rear, if it's their first Tesla they have to look up raising the car for bolt access and pan removal then setting the ride height for alignment.
Tesla aligned mine in the middle of their spec and at "normal" ride height from the factory. Aside from horrendous understeer at the limit, tires wore out quickly.
 
Tesla will align to their spec which is probably not what you want. Have your local shop set the alignment to the minimum Tesla allows at your most often used ride height (usually "low"). Note the shop has to know how to get the pan off the rear, if it's their first Tesla they have to look up raising the car for bolt access and pan removal then setting the ride height for alignment.
Tesla aligned mine in the middle of their spec and at "normal" ride height from the factory. Aside from horrendous understeer at the limit, tires wore out quickly.
Thank you. This will be their first Tesla. I have two choices the independent shop (I know the owners) or Electrified Garage which is +$200 more and 1.5 hours away. Installation would include lowering springs (no air suspension), camber arms and alignment.
 
Guys,
So I finally got around to calling Electrified Garage for the installation of Springs, Camber arms, and alignment. I was told this morning it's an additional $362 for the camber arms because the subframe needs to be lowered. I don't recall anyone mentioning this was required. Is this a requirement? My car doesn't have the factory air suspension.
 
Guys,
So I finally got around to calling Electrified Garage for the installation of Springs, Camber arms, and alignment. I was told this morning it's an additional $362 for the camber arms because the subframe needs to be lowered. I don't recall anyone mentioning this was required. Is this a requirement? My car doesn't have the factory air suspension.
Hm that's odd, it may be because you have the coil suspension. Its a super simple install on the air suspension equipped models, are you sure they aren't saying that the install of the springs may need the rear subframe to be dropped?