Rear air suspension not responsive

[BostonBurley]

I'm not trying to get ad space. In fact I just advertised/recommended a competitors product in my last post.

Speaking of, I’m still confused how EVTuning camber arms have offset bushings? Or unplugged performance? They look on center compared to N2itive, which has sort of a jagged profile leading up to the upper bushing. Perhaps they’re not as robust as yours, but surely far more robust than OEM, which Tesla says is okay. $425 vs $695 vs $850, and the cheaper ones don’t require special alignment destinations. That’s my point in all of this. For the average driver wanting to save on tire wear, they’ll all perform equally well. They won’t all be easily adjustable.

 

[N2itive]

Austin, I just re-read over all my posts here and I'm not seeing why you're so upset with me. But to answer your question if you draw a straight line from bushing to bushing you will see that it is off center and not parallel from the center of the threaded rod. You say the others are more robust than OEM but how can that be anything but speculation? Also you did not pay $850 for our arms. You paid $612 after discounts. Anyhow I'm not interested in arguing about this. Take care.

 

[BostonBurley]

Austin, I just re-read over all my posts here and I'm not seeing why you're so upset with me. But to answer your question if you draw a straight line from bushing to bushing you will see that it is off center and not parallel from the center of the threaded rod. You say the others are more robust than OEM but how can that be anything but speculation? Also you did not pay $850 for our arms. You paid $612 after discounts. Anyhow I'm not interested in arguing about this. Take care.

I paid $698 total. The buyer pays tax. You received $612, perhaps. I think they’re $637.50. But that’s my business, dude. UP sells these for cheaper with local pickup, if you wanna compare. I would’ve bought the UP arms if I had known even your own referred shop an hour away says they’re very difficult to work on.
I’m upset that I’m telling the community what my experience is in my own thread and you’re here within the thread as an undercover vendor to oversee it and write paragraphs defending your company. I dunno if it’s worth replying. Just consider. It’s a bad look even if you think I’m wrong. This will be here for years and I think it’s the right thing to do to let it rest and let me be.

 

[BostonBurley]

Just for the record I did take the car to Just Tires, a race tuning shop in Alhambra with Supra’s and NSX parked in the lot, highly recommended on Yelp. They have done the UP arms on other cars and they thought THATS what I had, until they were under there working on it. After 30 minutes of trying to loosen torx bolts they told me they couldn’t do it bc they would need a special tool.
After that, I called at least a dozen places that were tuner shops or tuner friendly, even west end alignment, and I text a few pics of the installed arms posted in this thread... had one $350+ offer, and finally called 714 Tires.
I’m not exaggerating the issue. Maybe a list of preferred installers in SoCal would go a long way bc my list took hours to compile and they’re all a “sorry, no”.
Design wise I think the arms are robust, and centered in line with the bushings... it’s just adjustment I take issue with.
FYI the evtuning toe arms I’m awaiting are not offset, adjustment is made in the center of the arm, although they do use jam bolts. The UP camber arms jam nut adjustment is JUST aft of the leveling ball joint, putting it just within reach for adjustments. The Just Tires guy said they were a typical design that’s easy to adjust.

One silver lining here is AP Guys are sending me replacement rear links since my other ones didn’t survive my clumsy removal.
With camber and toe adjustment at the next alignment, I’ll be able to go in lowered and leave with proper alignment for tire wear. I already own the links so I’m gonna give it a try.

Actually kept saying “Just Tires” but it was “Tire Central”, a tuning shop. Anyhow.

 

[gombosati]

It’s fixed! It was the camber arms after all. I rebooted the computers and powered off, but that didn’t fix. Then I rebooted a second time, after power off, and it was magically level front and rear. N2itive arms to the rescue.

Hello.
Same problem.
But I didn't do anything with the chassis.
One day it is received, the front is sitting, the back is high.
What restart did you do?
Sorry for the English, google translator.

 

[gombosati]

It’s fixed! It was the camber arms after all. I rebooted the computers and powered off, but that didn’t fix. Then I rebooted a second time, after power off, and it was magically level front and rear. N2itive arms to the rescue.

Hello. Same problem. But I didn't do anything with the chassis. One day it is received, the front is sitting, the back is high. What restart did you do? Sorry for the English, google translator.
Thank You.

 

[BostonBurley]

Hello. Same problem. But I didn't do anything with the chassis. One day it is received, the front is sitting, the back is high. What restart did you do? Sorry for the English, google translator.
Thank You.

My issue was the rear camber arms from a brand called Camber King. They caused the rear height sensor to think the car was all the way low when it was fully extended.
It’s possible that a fuse has blown (?), i think it’s 36 or 37. But if the whole system is on one fuse it won’t make a difference. Does the rear stay up through the different heights, but the front goes up and down correctly? Was anything at all done to the rear of the car? Bending the sensor bracket always changes ride height. Even a couple millimeters will change your ride height over 1/4” on that one corner. New brackets would fix that issue, or continually bending them and looking for the ideal position.
Again, this might be the problem, but probably is not.

 

[BostonBurley]

Hello. Same problem. But I didn't do anything with the chassis. One day it is received, the front is sitting, the back is high. What restart did you do? Sorry for the English, google translator.
Thank You.

To reset your MCU’s, press and hold the steering wheel scroll wheel and the button directly above it, on both sides. Four buttons, four fingers, and hold until both screens go dark.
When the mcu’s fully restart, go to service & safety menu in touchscreen settings, then “power off”, agree to the process, and let the car sit a solid five minutes. They say 2 minutes, but my older model s takes 4-5 minutes to make its final noises and clicks. During that time period avoid touching anything, opening doors, etc.
If confusing, this MCU Reset Article should fill in anything I missed and may translate better since it’s published.
After this reset process is complete, press the brake to turn on car.

I’ve heard of the S getting stuck in Jack Mode on only the rear, which confuses me a little but im not an air suspension expert. Try toggling the Jack Mode feature after the reset, then pressing the suspension height options to see how the car reacts.
One last thing I tried last year was driving the car beyond the 30kph and 50kph threshold for it to “automatically” lower. I also set automatic “low” to 30kph, but it never initiated in back. The front always acted correctly.
My situation was definitely due to hardware, but I did a lot of expensive diagnosis visits only to realize eventually that the camber arm product would never work, and the seller simply didn’t know what they were doing.

Hope you can find a solution.

 

[Doanster1]

Hello. Same problem. But I didn't do anything with the chassis. One day it is received, the front is sitting, the back is high. What restart did you do? Sorry for the English, google translator.
Thank You.

Are you getting the red Suspension icon on the dash?

 

[gombosati]

My issue was the rear camber arms from a brand called Camber King. They caused the rear height sensor to think the car was all the way low when it was fully extended.
It’s possible that a fuse has blown (?), i think it’s 36 or 37. But if the whole system is on one fuse it won’t make a difference. Does the rear stay up through the different heights, but the front goes up and down correctly? Was anything at all done to the rear of the car? Bending the sensor bracket always changes ride height. Even a couple millimeters will change your ride height over 1/4” on that one corner. New brackets would fix that issue, or continually bending them and looking for the ideal position.
Again, this might be the problem, but probably is not.

They didn't do anything on the car.
The back is completely up, the front is down.
I was already trying to restart, change wheel size and back.
Jack mode on and off.
I looked at the fuse, good.

Thanks for the help.
The error will be different for me then because I did not replace the part.

Are you getting the red Suspension icon on the dash?

Hello. Yes.

 

[Madskp89]

They didn't do anything on the car.
The back is completely up, the front is down.
I was already trying to restart, change wheel size and back.
Jack mode on and off.
I looked at the fuse, good.

Thanks for the help.
The error will be different for me then because I did not replace the part.

Hello. Yes.

Did you got the problem solved?