I was finally getting some clicking noises as well, as it was a series of clicks not just a simple whack upon acceleration to deceleration I was positive it was the right rear wheel bearing so I replaced it. Clicks are still present!
Next step try this moly lubrication. Not as easy as it sounds; not the procedure, but getting the grease!
So I thought I would share some pictures as I was not sure myself what it all looked like, even researching this for hours and watching every video looking for information, as well as the service manual.
So first, if someone is curious the OEM wheel hub/bearing is SKF. I was happy to see this after purchasing the SKF replacement from Rockauto. Took some whacking etc. and putting the caliper bolt back in to pry the rotor off, I envy those in climates who don't have Magnesium Chloride and other salts in the winter.... hub removal wasn't too bad.
It was not easy to source the Molykote 77; I didn't want to buy a $500 bucket of course, but found a place on ebay who sells it by the 1/2 ounce for $12, which should be enough for a dozen applications. You don't want to use just any molydenum disulfide grease; I had some already for brake sliders, but it is only 3-5% MoS2, whereas the genuine Dow Corning M77 is upwards of 40% MoS2; this is what is required for the proper cushioning between metal surfaces.
DOW CORNING MOLYKOTE M77 Paste Grease Lubricant Lube ½oz Silicone Oil, Moly MoS2 36663602145 | eBay
Here is a picture of the end of the cv joint with the hub removed to show the relatively dry mating surface, with some old molykote residue
And a picture of the new and old hub which shows the other flat mating surface. You can see how these 2 flat surface will make sound when one steps on the throttle and the immense torque throws the cv joint out and it hits the hub surface. Why engineering didn't specify some kind of urethane bushing instead of molykote 77 is anyones guess. (?)
One doesn't need to do this of course to lubricate this joint, It is certainly easier to add the specified 1 gram (how much is that? 1 finger scoop?
when the hub is replaced, but for the other side of the car I didn't replace the hub. It is quite simple to remove the axle nut (mine was tight by the way, so that wasn't the issue) with my 1 1/4" old Snap on socket (same as 32mm) and push the spline in, and the cv axle away from the hub. It is not necessary to unbolt any suspension to get access to the space. Now I don't have any fancy "axle-pusher-inners" or gear pullers, so I fashioned a piece of wood with a hole in it, used a lug nut to hold it in place, and that held the axle in enough for me to manage sticking my finger in the space between hub and cv joint and smear some moly in the desired area.
See how dry it is? looks like bare metal
And, it is quiet! We'll see how long it lasts.
