Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Rear Camber arms option - Hardrace

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Just ordered both after going through my rear tires in only 7k miles for the first time. Usually get 15-20k per set but for some reason these went quick. Anyone have a good starting measurement on a lowered model S? I am like -3.0 camber now so want to get it under -1.0 or close to that if possible. Would 290mm work or shoot for higher like 295.

Also, what digital level are you using? One of the actual mini digital levels from amazon, or a magnetic camber level from amazon?

Thanks in advance. Also, if you look up N2itive camber tesla on youtube, there are a few really good step by step videos.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dannietjoh
Just ordered both after going through my rear tires in only 7k miles for the first time. Usually get 15-20k per set but for some reason these went quick. Anyone have a good starting measurement on a lowered model S? I am like -3.0 camber now so want to get it under -1.0 or close to that if possible. Would 290mm work or shoot for higher like 295.

Also, what digital level are you using? One of the actual mini digital levels from amazon, or a magnetic camber level from amazon?

Thanks in advance. Also, if you look up N2itive camber tesla on youtube, there are a few really good step by step videos.
if you're lowered and want it near -1 you're also going to need toe links ask me how i know.
 
I ended up ordering the adjustable toe links from them as well, so will be going with the entire kit. Can't wait to get it all dialed in. I think my right rear toe bushing must have gone out (125k miles) because the right rear tire got eaten in 3 months about 7k miles. The right rear was totally fine still and I've never had them wear unevenly like that. Also feels like the rear end is a bit "loose" compared to normal. Figured its worth the investment since I'll be keeping my FUSC car for a while now with gas prices the way they are.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cleverscreenam
How do you set the angle gauge so it's read correctly?

When car is in the driveway or jack stand...the vertical angle is never be exactly zero.
Camber is relative to the car.
Throw the angle gauge on something that is level on the car (rear trunk floor for instance). Read the angle.
Now when you make the measurement at the wheel, add/subtract this angle (get the direction right!).
Or if you can, level the car using the level and then you don't need to adjust the math.
 
With all this talk of trying to eyeball an alignment. Do people not use the Firestone lifetime alignment? Set the camber arm adjustable towards the chassis, toe adjuster toward knuckle is fine, ask your tech to align it with settings you’d like while leaving the toe eccentric alone/near zero, leave a note with a Starbucks gift card in the cup holder or bring a box of donuts/Costco pizza in when you talk to the desk person. 🤷🏿‍♂️👌🏿

Build relationships, I promise they’ll align it better than 90% of X owners.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: gearchruncher
With all this talk of trying to eyeball an alignment. Do people not use the Firestone lifetime alignment?
Well, people have tried and failed:

Plus, who is talking about eyeballing it? Camber is trivial to measure for $20 with a tool, and that sounds a lot more reliable than hoping you can bribe the front desk into doing a complex alignment on aftermarket parts on a car with variable ride height. Yes, for most people they should pay to get toe adjusted, but that is way easier than camber and can use the stock adjusters.

Set the camber arm adjustable towards the chassis,
Please do not do this as it will change the ride height of the car as you change camber.
 
Well, people have tried and failed:

Plus, who is talking about eyeballing it? Camber is trivial to measure for $20 with a tool, and that sounds a lot more reliable than hoping you can bribe the front desk into doing a complex alignment on aftermarket parts on a car with variable ride height. Yes, for most people they should pay to get toe adjusted, but that is way easier than camber and can use the stock adjusters.


Please do not do this as it will change the ride height of the car as you change camber.
Lololol.

Damn, y’all must have the worst Firestone offices. I’m at 5 different locations, 10+cars all modified with aftermarket arms. “Complex” lol. ‘Zero toe spread side to side. Camber @ X.’ Mega complex. “Bribe” ROFL

I’m not stressed, you do you. This X lives at one height, camber arm to chassis. No sense in making it difficult to fix Tesla’s mistake with this rear subframe.

Edit: you realize that the OP above was turned away because the alignment rack at that location was one of the ones that hadn’t been updated for tesla vehicles? It happens, call another, bet one in the area will do it. been there, done that, bought the book and tshirt.
 
Last edited:
  • Disagree
Reactions: ASMills85
Well, people have tried and failed:

Plus, who is talking about eyeballing it? Camber is trivial to measure for $20 with a tool, and that sounds a lot more reliable than hoping you can bribe the front desk into doing a complex alignment on aftermarket parts on a car with variable ride height. Yes, for most people they should pay to get toe adjusted, but that is way easier than camber and can use the stock adjusters.


Please do not do this as it will change the ride height of the car as you change camber.
The camber adjuster do needs to be toward the chassis so it can be accessible from under the car. My S doesn't have adjustable suspension so that was ok.

For adjustable suspension....adjuster needs to be toward the wheel...this mean the wheel has to come off for adjustment...most alignment shop will charge extra for that.

I do have the Firestone lifetime alignment...worth every cents...Firestone told me they won't take off the wheels for alignment ...they said you make the adjustment and bring it back
 
Last edited:
For adjustable suspension....adjuster needs to be toward the wheel...this mean the wheel has to come off for adjustment...most alignment shop will charge extra for that.
Or, you know, follow my installation instructions with a $20 camber gauge while you are doing the install. But I guess this is "eyeballing" it despite the use of a tool that can measure to the hundredth of a degree.

I'm here helping people DIY and get it done faster and cheaper while others are going "geez, go to Firestone and bring a pizza, I have 10 modified cars what is wrong with you?"
 
Or, you know, follow my installation instructions with a $20 camber gauge while you are doing the install. But I guess this is "eyeballing" it despite the use of a tool that can measure to the hundredth of a degree.

I'm here helping people DIY and get it done faster and cheaper while others are going "geez, go to Firestone and bring a pizza, I have 10 modified cars what is wrong with you?"
The typical owner of this car is older. Laser alignments are easy, cheap, and don’t require wheel removal. (Torque wrench, jack, up/down a bunch o times for zero reason)

You’re allowed to type my username instead of trying to punch the air. Also, when quoting someone, use their words, I know it’s hard, but it makes you seem less irritated that someone would rather pay than use THEIR OWN laser alignment rack or your cheese ‘cool level and magic instructions’. The internet is a funny place, you get people “helping people DIY” and people attempting to get people to interact with professionals that can handle this without issue.

Best part of this site is the ignore feature. 👌🏿
 
The typical owner of this car is older. Laser alignments are easy, cheap, and don’t require wheel removal. (Torque wrench, jack, up/down a bunch o times for zero reason)
someone would rather pay than use THEIR OWN laser alignment rack or your cheese ‘cool level and magic instructions’.

Tell me you didn't read my instructions without telling me you didn't read my instructions.

My instructions are for people doing their own camber arm install. If you are already doing that, there is an easy way to set camber while you are there, without much additional work than the actual install, without having to install the arms wrong, without having to pay for a custom alignment because you can't adjust the arms with the wheel on, so you can't do the "cheap" alignment you quoted.

This is for someone that has already decided to do their own install. The age of that person is irrelevant. Yes, if you are paying someone to do the install, you pay for a complete alignment. You probably also aren't using hardrace arms.

And FYI, F1 teams use strings and angle gauges to align, not lasers, which is how I do alignments in my garage too. You don't need a laser alignment rack to do an alignment, and it's commonly considered to be more accurate as well. But that's not even this discussion, as nobody here is suggesting DIY toe.

What is particularly weird is that you're fixated on how cheap and easy it is to get Firestone to do an alignment, while when you read this thread, it has multiple mentions of people having a hard time finding someone to do alignments or having to pay a lot extra for them. You're also being disingenuous in acting like it's easy since you have posted in multiple other threads at TMC about people saying they can't get firestone to do an alignment.

you get people “helping people DIY” and people attempting to get people to interact with professionals that can handle this without issue.
Given you want to leave everything to the "professionals" at Firestone, I am interested why you aren't annoyed that people are doing their own DIY control arm installs as well? I mean, you can totally hire a professional to do this too without issue. Is your rule that as long as it's possible to pay someone to do something, you should do so?
 
Here's the pic
 

Attachments

  • E1DD303D-21E6-4160-A116-75FFC9B48502.jpeg
    E1DD303D-21E6-4160-A116-75FFC9B48502.jpeg
    328.4 KB · Views: 176
  • Like
Reactions: Dannietjoh
I got the hardrace toe arm on order...

Is there any advice on initial setting?...maybe just match the factory hole?

Since the arm is adjustable...so do I re-use the cam- bolt system?..

I know I had to cut the rear bolt... but I think on the non-air suspension...there might be enough room to get the rear bolt out
 
The rear bolt clearance isn't an issue of air suspension or not its that they installed the bolt head the wrong direction and it comes in contact with the battery/subframe before it can fully clear the hole to remove it. You'll have to cut it out regardless.
 
  • Like
Reactions: buckets0fun