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Rear Camber arms option - Hardrace

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@gearcruncher - do you know what the stock camber arms measure? Curious how many mm this is extended over stock.
I'm showing 283mm stock from an old photo I found (this is a 2017 Model X)
 

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I'm showing 283mm stock from an old photo I found (this is a 2017 Model X)

Thank you! So does that mean if you put your arms at 290 that you need 7mm worth of adjustment on the toe arm to keep toe at the same amount as you currently have? Or is that not how it works? Just trying to assess if toe arms are a must for me or not. My current toe eccentrics are almost all the way in, so I should have around 6mm of adjustment I'm guessing.
 

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I haven't measured all the suspension geometry, but I doubt the toe change is 1:1 with camber. The pivot location for camber is different than for toe. I'd expect there to be less toe change per camber.

For me, I was able to use the stock toe adjusters to get 1mm toe in per side when at 0.50 degrees camber and the car set to LOW. That used up all the stock toe adjustment though, and if I wanted less camber I would have needed toe arms.

Of course, one option is to just max out the stock toe adjusters and then change camber to get the toe you want and live with whatever camber that gives you.
 
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For me, I was able to use the stock toe adjusters to get 1mm toe in per side when at 0.50 degrees camber and the car set to LOW. That used up all the stock toe adjustment though, and if I wanted less camber I would have needed toe arms.

Of course, one option is to just max out the stock toe adjusters and then change camber to get the toe you want and live with whatever camber that gives you.

Thanks. More questions!

- Do you know what your starting camber level was? just wondering how much 290mm changed camber.

- When you say max out the stock toe adjusters, do you mean turn them to they extend all the way out as far as they can away form the center of the car? I assume you do, but want to make sure.

Thanks. Still not suee about ordering toe links or not and how much it will affect nvh if both of those are installed.
 
- Do you know what your starting camber level was? just wondering how much 290mm changed camber.

- When you say max out the stock toe adjusters, do you mean turn them to they extend all the way out as far as they can away form the center of the car? I assume you do, but want to make sure.
Don't remember exactly what my stock camber was. I think 1.2, but that's a fuzzy memory.
Maxed out toe is adjusting the stock adjusters to maximum toe out. yes, as far away from the center of the car as possible. If you turn the eccentric adjusters any more in either direction, the toe will begin to move towards toe in.
 
Just got both the camber and toe arms installed at 714 Tires in Westminster in the LA area. My camber was way off at -3 and they were able to get everything dialed in close to 0 camber and 0 toe. I will probably have them change it to give a bit of negative camber next time I do an alignment, but so far everything is driving wonderfully. Highly recommend these to anyone with a Model S as I had been going through tires every 10k miles in the rear.
 
Just got both the camber and toe arms installed at 714 Tires in Westminster in the LA area. My camber was way off at -3 and they were able to get everything dialed in close to 0 camber and 0 toe. I will probably have them change it to give a bit of negative camber next time I do an alignment, but so far everything is driving wonderfully. Highly recommend these to anyone with a Model S as I had been going through tires every 10k miles in the rear.

Thanks for the update! I’m in OC as well so might have to use that shop. How has the ride been? Notice any additional noise or harshness? Would love to get a ride sometime if you are up for meeting.
 
Long time lurker, never really felt the need to post... .but figured I would on this. I just installed these on my 2012 Signature Performance (42k miles), which has pretty much been at -3* of camber on the rear wheels forever. After discovering this thread, I ordered these via Aleks Racing (I have zero affiliation with them). They were drop shipped directly from Taiwan (from the Hardrace factory I assume) about 8 days after ordering. All in all about a two and a half week event.

I installed them yesterday, simple install... nothing exciting to report maybe 1 hour all up and I was bring slow. 290mm actually ended up being bang on for my car to set -0.5* camber, but at standard height. I measured the trellis style factory camber arm and i came up with 279.5mm center to center. So this would seem to jibe given the OP's Model X arms measured out longer. On my car it would seem 5mm = 1.5*.

I still need to get a "real alignment done", but I borrowed a friends home alignment setup just to see if I had any hope without toe arms.

At standard height, which is all I run at... with the toe eccentrics at dead 90* to the outside of the car I was able to get the left rear wheel to 0* and the right to -0.04*. Soooo, it would seam i just snuck under the wire here. I just let the eccentrics 90* outside for now. This is honestly exactly where I wanted to be specs wise, so I'm happy if this aligns out at the end of the adjustment as I would like to avoid running toe arms if I can. I'm cheap, and I don't feel like hacksawing out the bolt :) honestly the car is driving very well, but I can tell thrust angle is ever so slightly off... so I'll pay for an alignment I guess.

Thats a long ramble to say: -0.5* is the hard limit on my car for the stock toe arms to handle it would seem.

Appreciate the post from the OP, and honestly for the money... these seem pretty well made. I have certainly run worse suspension components on other vehicles. It seems Hardrace has a fair amount of inroads in the Nissan community.
 

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Well done Gimpster! So glad to hear of another success story. 👍

I think I'm going to jump in with both camber arms and toe arms as i plan to run the car in low mode plus lower it another .75-1". My question at this point is what my ideal alignment settings should be?

I plan to do some mountain canyon roads in the car, so want to maintain good performance, but don't want to wear back tires so quickly. I do have the ability to rotate with a square setup, but don't want too much alignment-caused wear to happen. Being a rwd car, it will already burn rear tires more quickly in the best of circumstances.

Handling-wise, its a big girl so I know its not going to handle like a sports car, but if I had to make a change I'd love a bit more positive turn in at the front. Sometimes its a little vague. Grip-wise the car sticks pretty well.

Any suggestions on alignment specs or should I post this elsewhere? When my wife drives or i have people in the car, I willlikely run it in astandard mode, so I need to make sure the settings are still good in standard mode too. Thanks,
 
Anyone need a set of Hardrace Camber Arms? I just got a shipment in and bought an extra set for a buddy, but they decided not to use them.

Add is posted in the classifieds here:

 
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Just got both the camber and toe arms installed at 714 Tires in Westminster in the LA area. My camber was way off at -3 and they were able to get everything dialed in close to 0 camber and 0 toe. I will probably have them change it to give a bit of negative camber next time I do an alignment, but so far everything is driving wonderfully. Highly recommend these to anyone with a Model S as I had been going through tires every 10k miles in the rear.
yes 714 tires does a great job and its super cheap, well worth the 3hr each way drive i take to go there
Thanks for the update! I’m in OC as well so might have to use that shop.
i highly recommend 714 tires for tesla alignments, they did my car like 4 times because i kept adding or fiddling with things and needing a new alignment, every visit they got me exactly the specs i said i wanted for every angle
So has anyone else put the hardrace arms on and run any miles besides gearcruncher? Ride quality?
I have the @N2itive rear camber arms and toe arms and they are amazing and i love them. But for the front since they don't make UCA's the only company i could find that does make them is hardrace. The build quality is ok and the hole for the air suspension ball is in the wrong spot and i had to drill/tap my own hole and the adjustment is not super easy but its doable. So based on their UCA quality (and lack thereof) I'd say go with N2itive rear parts, they are more expensive but they are also built better. And if N2itive ever gets around to making some UCA's I would swap mine out and buy those.
 
Just thought I'd update a bit, went to alignment shop today. Both sides are indeed right at -0.5* camber, so that's good and the guy was amused given I did it in the driveway.

Keeping in mind I'm just trying to run these in "standard" height, not low, we couldn't get the right rear to spec on toe. As I posted earlier, both eccentrics are max out, which thankfully on the rear left put it at 0.29* (in), which I can live with if it meant not spending more money. The right rear is unfortunately sitting at 0.88* (in). I came out to the shop with the guy and we loosened it all up good and tugged there is just no more to be had.

And so the total toe is sitting at 1.17* (right bias).

I considered going to -1 to -1.25* on camber to see if we could hit spec .. but that's not where I wan't to be on my mostly highway cruiser car.

SO.... it would appear I will be buying toe links. I've not yet decided if I'm going to buy hard race or another vendor. I'm leaning toward not hardrace just because their adjustment method looks like it would annoy most alignment shops. The camber doesn't bother me/them so much, its basically set for life now.
 
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I have the @N2itive rear camber arms and toe arms and they are amazing and i love them. But for the front since they don't make UCA's the only company i could find that does make them is hardrace. The build quality is ok and the hole for the air suspension ball is in the wrong spot and i had to drill/tap my own hole.
Are you sure about that? I haven't seen anyone else have that problem. Are you puttiting the adjuster out toward the wheel or inboard near the subframe mount?

SO.... it would appear I will be buying toe links. I've not yet decided if I'm going to buy hard race or another vendor. I'm leaning toward not hardrace just because their adjustment method looks like it would annoy most alignment shops. The camber doesn't bother me/them so much, its basically set for life now.

Bummer, was hoping you'd get away without them. I just bought a set of hardrace toe and camber arms. What is the problem with the toe arm adjuster? It can be inboard near the eccentrics, which is where the shops like to have them so they don't have to take the tire off. Since you're camber arms are staying fixed, I would think that would be good.
 
Bummer, was hoping you'd get away without them. I just bought a set of hardrace toe and camber arms. What is the problem with the toe arm adjuster? It can be inboard near the eccentrics, which is where the shops like to have them so they don't have to take the tire off. Since you're camber arms are staying fixed, I would think that would be good.

Shoving your hands up where the eccentric sucks for the average big handed tech. Specifically the subframe side of it is a bear. I have no issues doing it with the wheel on personally, but I'm also ... a little more flexible than most. Like I'm able to cram my arm up into the gap between that rear plate on the battery with an 18mm in hand no problemo.

I ended up going with UP for toe links, I liked the mid-point adjustment and both sides also being sealed sphericals like Hardrace. Just reach around the lower control arm and you're golden.

Being 100% transparent, I really wish I didn't need them. I am literally just some middle aged guy driving my Model S down the interstate lol... I do not want nor expect performance or a low ride out of my car. I just want my tires to last longer. I feel like I fell down a bit of rabbit hole on this and have more time/money invested than I wanted.
 
Are you sure about that? I haven't seen anyone else have that problem. Are you puttiting the adjuster out toward the wheel or inboard near the subframe mount?
I'm referring to the front UCA's when i was talking about mounting issues, also i had a brain fart when i typed that i have Truehart UCA not hardrace but since they are visually identical to each other it may still be true but i can only speak for the Truhart ones being built with the hole in the wrong spot.
 
I ended up going with UP for toe links, I liked the mid-point adjustment and both sides also being sealed sphericals like Hardrace. Just reach around the lower control arm and you're golden.

Being 100% transparent, I really wish I didn't need them. I am literally just some middle aged guy driving my Model S down the interstate lol... I do not want nor expect performance or a low ride out of my car. I just want my tires to last longer. I feel like I fell down a bit of rabbit hole on this and have more time/money invested than I wanted.

Yeah, I feel ya - too much expense and effort for what is really just getting the alignment so it doesn't eat tires. In my case I'm going lower for looks and hopefully some performance, so it at least gets me something else. Good point on the adjusters - those do look easier.

I'm referring to the front UCA's when i was talking about mounting issues, also i had a brain fart when i typed that i have Truehart UCA not hardrace but since they are visually identical to each other it may still be true but i can only speak for the Truhart ones being built with the hole in the wrong spot.

Oh ok, this whole thread is about the rear suspension, not the front. if you need. set of rear camber arms let me know - i posted in the classified area.
 
Hi All,
I've just finished installing my hardrace links at 290mm. They're the right way up (curve Down), the adjuster is outboard, I tensioned the bolts with suspension on the ground at STD height.
And the back suspension is now about 40mm lower than the front....
I drove the suspenion up and down, and all that is working but still differant by 40~mm.
Any thoughts? FYI, I don't have toolbox...
Thanks
 
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Hi All,
I've just finished installing my hardrace links at 290mm. They're the right way up (curve Down), the adjuster is outboard, I tensioned the bolts with suspension on the ground at STD height.
And the back suspension is now about 40mm lower than the front....
I drove the suspenion up and down, and all that is working but still differant by 40~mm.
Any thoughts? FYI, I don't have toolbox...
Thanks
 
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Reactions: zoomer0056