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Rear camber issue caused Pilot Sports to fail at 24k miles (M3P+)

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You shouldn't be worrying about camber you should be worrying about rear toe changes. That's what's going to chew up your tire. Dropping the car changes toe significantly both front and rear. You could reach out to Mountain Pass to get this information in terms of expected toe changes. The good news is it's fairly easy to do toe alignment if you have the MPP toe arms. You can get some pretty decent toe plate kits off of Amazon for around a hundred bucks that will allow you to do toe in front and rear. Much harder if you have to struggle with the eccentric cam bolt toe adjustment that is part of the stock mechanism.

Adjusting the camber without an alignment will make a drastic change to your toe settings and destroy your tires very quickly. I wouldn't recommend adjusting the camber unless you have toe plates to verify that you don't have something like 20mm of toe out and ruin your tires in one weekend!

Alright, you guys have convinced me otherwise and talked some sense into me; thank you! I will keep things as is and wait to get on the rack for a more finite (and correct) adjustment/alignment.
 
Alright, you guys have convinced me otherwise and talked some sense into me; thank you! I will keep things as is and wait to get on the rack for a more finite (and correct) adjustment/alignment.
It's worth it to get a set of alignment plates like these to do quick checks and at least toe in. It's way easier to set up than the professional $10k systems, as long as your garage floor is pretty level. The second link will also show you some less expensive options. I love mine - it's really accurate and so easy to use. MPP has a video on a similar tool.


 
The rear is already toe out from the factory, so they go even further out now than they will at 0 toe.
I will mention that the factory spec is actually toe-in (positive is toe-in, negative is toe-out). A factory alignment calls for about 1mm of toe-in front and about 3mm of toe-in, in the rear.

In addition, when the suspension compresses the tires toe-in even further. So, the issue is that under compression you can easily end up with a significant amount of toe-in which is going to wear the tires. I believe this is one reason that people have issues with tire wear.

That all being said, if anything, you want some toe-out in the rear. But, again, for a street alignment zero has been pretty good for me!

P.S. When did you get a Plaid!? How are you liking it?
 
I will mention that the factory spec is actually toe-in (positive is toe-in, negative is toe-out). A factory alignment calls for about 1mm of toe-in front and about 3mm of toe-in, in the rear.

In addition, when the suspension compresses the tires toe-in even further. So, the issue is that under compression you can easily end up with a significant amount of toe-in which is going to wear the tires. I believe this is one reason that people have issues with tire wear.

That all being said, if anything, you want some toe-out in the rear. But, again, for a street alignment zero has been pretty good for me!

P.S. When did you get a Plaid!? How are you liking it?

I was accidentally replying here and thought it was in the plaid tire thread. We got a bad issue with toe out from the factory + more toe out on compression.

My mistake for confusing the threads.
 
I was accidentally replying here and thought it was in the plaid tire thread. We got a bad issue with toe out from the factory + more toe out on compression.

My mistake for confusing the threads.
No worries man! Yeah the new S suspension is backwards! I don't understand why Tesla keeps setting the toe to increase (in one direction or the other) under compression - strange.

Still would love to hear your thoughts on the Plaid :)
 
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Still would love to hear your thoughts on the Plaid :)
It's mind-boggling fast for a street car off the factory line, but not too fond of the handling dynamics. Two other good things is the power delivery on the top end hits as hard as it does down low, and the fact it is pretty close to full power as low as 20% charge on the battery.

However, the M3P is a much better daily driver, and I'll be buying another extra one of those as soon as they can get them to hold power longer through the RPM range and power holds stronger throughout the lower charges, like the plaid say down to 20%(ish). The amount of power the M3P has is amazingly balanced and I think if they add much more, it's going to skew the driving dynamics. They just need that same amount of HP further up in the RPMs.
 
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