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Rear of the car getting quickly dirty

Discussion in 'Model S' started by max35111, Feb 18, 2016.

  1. max35111

    max35111 Member

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    Hi guys,

    Have tried to research that topic in the forum but didn't find it! Might be a lack of vocabulary in English to describe what I would like to understand!

    I own a 90D ocean blue, and I find that the car gets very quickly dirty in the winter. Especially on the rear part (trunk and license plate).

    Do you guys notice the same? Is there an official accessory or a DIY to make that would significantly help that issue?

    Thanks!
    Max
     
  2. Mr X

    Mr X Future Owner

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    Get in the habit and wipe it every day if its not too much.


    No harsh winters here but my Volt's butt gets dirty way quicker than my Dad's Model S's.
     
  3. RDoc

    RDoc S85D

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    I've noticed the same thing and it tends to obscure the rear camera very quickly, particularly in rain or snow. I wind up cleaning off the camera lens whenever I stop, but it still gets covered pretty fast.
     
  4. green1

    green1 Active Member

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    Has anyone tried something like rain-x on the camera? would it help? or make it worse?
     
  5. calisnow

    calisnow Active Member

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    Yes. The solution is to accessorize one of your hands with a microfiber towel or other cleaning cloth. Accessorize your other hand with your favorite paint-safe cleaning fluid. Spray cleaner onto your dirty car with one hand and wipe the car with the cleaning cloth that is in your other hand.

    I believe if you try this the car will become less dirty.

    YMMV
     
  6. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    No matter what you use, if you clean it every day or every few days without first taking steps to remove the dirt without rubbing, you'll create swirls no matter what no rinse solution and microfiber towel you use.
     
  7. f-stop

    f-stop Member

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    i just wiped a bit of Rain-X on the rear camera lens for this purpose a couple days ago. Can't say for sure it solved the problem - seems a tiny bit better, it's certainly no worse.
     
  8. kevincwelch

    kevincwelch Active Member

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    I wouldn't say that's true. You have to use your judgment. If you have just a very thin layer of dust, a quality quick detailer and plush MF will do the trick. A bit thicker, consider the waterless wash like UWW+. More than a few days, better use a rinseless wash with thick MF.

    You can in fact keep your car clean and swirl free taking the right steps and using good judgment.
     
  9. kevincwelch

    kevincwelch Active Member

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    I'd use a dedicated hydrophobic glass coating. I have 22PLE VG1 on my camera glass and it keeps it pretty clean... Or at least makes it easier to clean.
     
  10. SM18

    SM18 Member

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  11. JeffS

    JeffS Member

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    The way the car is aerodynamically designed, air passing over the body and along the sides has a full release as it passes the rear. This creates a low pressure area on the vertical rear surface. Air flow against the hatch, rear bumper area is very calm compared to the lip of the hatch.

    Solution would be to add accessories that add more air disturbance in the rear of the car. But that defeats the purpose of the design.

    Most aerodynamically designed cars have this side effect. It's very common.
     
  12. green1

    green1 Active Member

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    It's more that the rear of the car is not aerodynamically designed, but the rest is. That means the air flows smoothly up to that point, and then gets sucked up against the flat rear. That said, nobody has yet managed an aerodynamic rear end for a car that isn't horrifically ugly, so I'm ok with the trade off.
     
  13. roblab

    roblab Active Member

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    I notice the wheels get dirty really fast, too. I think it's the dirt that's responsible. And driving.

    I use a spray bottle of distilled water ($.67/gal), spray, spray again to let the coarser dirt rinse off a bit, and wipe gently with a MF towel. If you don't rub, the wax doesn't get swirls.

    Then, a spray carnuba in water, on another (dedicated) wax MF. Two towels. Two spray bottles. And guaranteed you'll look like a Tesla Nerd.

    Takes about 2 minutes. Or you can do the whole car while you supercharge.
     
  14. AndreyATC

    AndreyATC Member

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    One thing i personally noticed, is that my car now stays clean longer with rear lip spoiler
    It's the stock OEM that came with the car
     
  15. green1

    green1 Active Member

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    I have the spoiler, if this is "cleaner" I don't want to see what normal is!
     
  16. jerry33

    jerry33 S85 - VIN:P05130 - 3/2/13

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    Modern aerodynamic cars use the kamm back effect rather than a long rear taper (see the DS-21 for a long rear taper before kamm back was discovered). This has the effect of pulling the dirt to the rear.
     
  17. Dithermaster

    Dithermaster Member

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    I agree it's the aerodynamics. My Volt did the same thing; prior cars not so much.
     
  18. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    #18 sorka, Feb 23, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2016
    It's all a matter of what level of swirling and how quickly it builds up over time is acceptable to you. My level of judgement means I take precautions that you probably don't fee are necessary.

    Touching your paint with anything that results in moving that thing across the surface of the paint will eventually cause swirls no matter how careful you are.

    My washing steps are:


    • Out of direct sunlight either early in the morning or dusk unless it's a cool cloudy day.
    • Pre-soak by pressure washing exterior with 3000 PSI pressure washer (1 gallon used)
    • Pre-soak with car wash fed through pressure washer on low pressure mode (1/2 gallon used).
    • Allow to soak for 5 minutes. If it's really cold outside, 10 minutes.
    • Pressure wash off pre-soak (1 gallon)

    At this point, pretty much anything you can see has been removed.

    The next steps used to involve using three 5 gallon buckets (1 for wash and 2 for rinse) with grit guards and 3 or 4 microfiber mittens, but even this introduces risk and it wastes water and it takes more time than what I do now.


    • Now I use 14 microfiber mits in a clean bucket with a 1/2 gallon of water and wash concentrate. So rather than using 3 or 4 mittens and rinsing every few panels, I use one mitten for a panel, turn it, do another panel and then throw it in an empty buck. I then grab another mitten and move on. This way there are no rinse buckets filled with 5 gallons each and there's no need to rinse and touch the next panel with a mitten that has been rinsed in water that might have a few bits of dust on them. They are used once and go into a bucket.
    • Do wheels with microfiber towels labeled for wheels. Never mix these with mittens or towels that have touched paint.
    • Pressure rinse (1 gallon)
    • Pull car in to garage and close door quckly as air filters have been screaming to clean the air.
    • Waffle towels to dry.
    • Compressed air for seams. If water comes out from that, only pat dry as the water from seams might have debris, dirt, etc and water that runs down the paint from a seam needs to be pat so there's no chance of scratching.


    Never wash the towels and mittens that touch the paint with anything that has touched the wheels. Label mittens used on the paint around the wheels wells. These can't ever be used on the other panels.
    Never wash the towels that have touched the wheels BEFORE the towels that have touched the paint. Always do them after. This allows enough regular clothing loads to get rid of any residual break dust.
    If you mess up and mix wheel towels with paint towels/mittens, then you have to throw those away so don't do it.
    Never heat dry the mittens and towels. This will ruin them.

    When washing, use light pressure. Never use firm pressure as this will scratch your paint a little no matter how clean and dirt free your paint already is.
     
  19. calisnow

    calisnow Active Member

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    "moving that thing across the surface" includes rinsing a surface with water. Pressure washing is *especially* likely to scratch a surface - it seems more abrasive to me than simply spraying a surface with a waterless wash, allowing to soak, and then gently wiping with a fresh microfiber and frequently turning the towel. This assumes of course we are not talking about caked on mud or road splatter, bugs, etc.

    I would love to see a controlled experiment where someone took two swirl-free cars of the same paint type, and then spent months either doing a wash routine like yours vs a waterless wash routine such as I just described - and then photographed the results under fluorescent lights.
     
  20. FlyingJat

    FlyingJat Member

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    I'd recommend adding one final extra step. We all know that driving the painted surface in an uncontrolled environment, it will bombarded with the soot, dust, O2, NO, CO2 CO molecules, etc. To avoid the sand paper effect across the surface, once the garage doors, car cleaned and air dried, one MUST leave the car in the garage until the next wash. :biggrin:
     

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