Rear Tire Wear - Uberturbine 21" - MYP

[rover67]

Howdy all,

Just doing a bit of a reality check here, I went to install the winter tires/wheels on our MYP we purchased new 10 months & 11k miles ago and the rears showed a ton of wear in the insides of the tire. It would seem to me that the car has too much rear camber.. and if this were a common alignment that it would be a common wear issue. Is this what folks are seeing or are we experiencing something unusual?

 

[240vPlug]

That's not normal. Mine were still at 8/32 at 7500 miles. Unfortunately these cars are know to be delivered out of alignment. You should get yourself a 4 wheel alignment before you put your winters on. Those tires are shot!

 

[fiehlsport]

I would say that is normal - Driving style differs between people, and the rear has visibly negative camber by default from the factory. For someone that enjoys the power of the MYP, I would expect 11K out of rears. I got 12K out of my Model 3 Dual Motor rear tires.

 

[rickybobbee]

Definitely not normal on mine myp 2021 unless they changed the setup since then. The tires do wear fast and likely won't get more than 20-30,000 kms out of them but should wear pretty evenly

 

[fiehlsport]

Definitely not normal on mine myp 2021 unless they changed the setup since then. The tires do wear fast and likely won't get more than 20-30,000 kms out of them but should wear pretty evenly

They are wearing as expected for a car with heavy negative rear camber. Look at the rears from ground-level, the outside makes less contact than the inside. I don't see anything wrong here.

This isn't new - tons of Teslas have rear tires that wear like this. And BMWs, etc.

Its possible they can "Align it out" but the Tesla specifications will only allow for so much more positive camber before they consider it too much.

 

[rickybobbee]

Howdy all,

Just doing a bit of a reality check here, I went to install the winter tires/wheels on our MYP we purchased new 10 months & 11k miles ago and the rears showed a ton of wear in the insides of the tire. It would seem to me that the car has too much rear camber.. and if this were a common alignment that it would be a common wear issue. Is this what folks are seeing or are we experiencing something unusual?

View attachment 869583View attachment 869584View attachment 869585

they overall don't look worn out. I would put them on the front and get 295x35x21 for the back

 

[240vPlug]

For a model X on lowest ride height it might be normal. I don't drive like an old lady and mine aren't worn like that after 7,600 miles. They look bald on the inside and I wouldn't continue to run those tires.

Since it's a staggered set the tread warranty is halved. Still the rears have 22,500 miles tread warranty. I would contact Michelin to see if they could possibly honor the treadwear warranty as that would save you a little on replacement.

Lastly before you replace them get a 4 wheel alignment. You probably already do but make sure you keep them properly inflated as well since running lower pressures will accelerate tread wear.

I went down to 19s for ride comfort as well as more tire options. Tires are also several hundred less expensive on the 19s. The 21" Ubers really look good though

 

[rover67]

Thanks for the comments. I will say that we drive pretty conservatively for the most part and I've also stayed on top of tire pressures, they don't deviate much from 42psi cold. One did catch a screw so it had a slow leak until I plugged it but that was a front tire.

I confirmed the car has a ton of negative camber, I measured around -2* on both rears yesterday when I was putting the summer tires back on to come to the service center for an appt. to get the alignment checked. I borrowed a setup to check from a neighbor that races cars. I've never seen something run that much negative camber unless it's on a track and honestly I should have noticed since day one but I just assumed it'd come with the alignment that was best for the car. Camber can be pretty different depending on how stiff cars are etc. so I wasn't going to pretend to know more than those who set it up. Anyhow, the service guy said 2* was "too much" and that they can bring it to spec. We will see..... I'm not sure how they think they can adjust things. I just asked that he not charge me the $275 for an alignment only to tell me it's at 2* and in spec and there's nothing they can do. I've been here waiting on the car to be done since 8am (It's 3 now). I have done some reading and Michelin would honor the warranty on factory installed tires (40k for these) if they were worn evenly across per their website. Uneven wear is even noted on their site as possibly being due to misalignment.

Anyways, after much reading here and in other places if the service center can't do anything I'll likely end up getting adjustable arms from one of the many places that offers them and setting the camber to something more reasonable like 1*. The tire wear alone shows 2* is way too much.

Tesla probably has the camber pretty close for the regular model Y's and then just lowered the MYP's without changing anything (non adjustable upper links) resulting in excessive camber just within their limit.

Or maybe it is adjustable and I am about to get my car back with 1* of camber and new rear tires (lol).

I did take a new MYP with FSD to lunch so that was neat. I wished ours stopped at red lights

 

[MountainPass]

Tesla probably has the camber pretty close for the regular model Y's and then just lowered the MYP's without changing anything (non adjustable upper links) resulting in excessive camber just within their limit.

You're spot on, the rear camber arms are the same length between the LR and P, but the P is at a lower ride height, resulting in more camber. We normally suggest that anyone going lower than stock MYP height consider adjustable rear camber arms.

/endsalespitch

FYI there is a small amount of rear camber adjustment available if you loosen the rear spring arm hardware and shift the bottom of the knuckle inboard as far as possible. It will not be a significant amount though!

 

[rover67]

They gave me the car back at 5 and said "you're ready!" I asked for the alignment specs printed out, they struggled with that and gave me a picture it looked like they took with a phone printed out of the specs showing camber juuuuuuuuuust in spec and said I was good to go. Had a short discussion about how I specifically said I didn't want to pay them $275 to not do anything and tell me things were in spec by a very small hair and the service writer seemed to remember what we talked about. I also reminded him he had claimed the camber was adjustable. I then told him look, the rear camber and toe are pretty much as is since the links are not adjustable, he still seemed confused. I asked him, if it's adjustable, then I want to see the camber centered at where they show is optimal (0.8*) and asked him to see if the alignment guy could do that. He walked back and quickly came back out to tell me that I was right, it is what it is and they can't change it. After a little bit more back and forth including the above mentioned theory on lowering/etc, (I was not happy) he agreed to remove the charge for the alignment.

I left somewhat unhappy but at least not out the $$ for the work that was somewhat in vain. Still a little stumped that tesla delivers a car like that with such an out of whack alignment and says it's good to go. It would be different if it were a track car but it's not. It's a family car for every day that is lowered with wide wheels/tires to look cool and handle better (which it does). I mean hell it doesn't even have a track mode you literally can't even drive it that hard. I did get my trailer brake controller pigtail so I can finally do my Radar Detector install.... that's a win.

Anyhow, I'll be making a few calls in the AM to look for adjustable stuff. I'm hoping that I can find some links with OEM style joints. Anything track oriented wears too quickly I've found, especially in our harsh climate. We do a lot of highway miles in slush, snow, ice, salt, sand and live on a dirt road that gets muddy and dusty and is at the end of a 4 mile mountain road. I'll call you guys at MPP also and chat, thanks for posting up, much appreciated.

I get all winter to think about summer rubber since the winter tire/wheel combo goes on tonight again. I don't mind the bigger wheels, with a proper alignment wear will be normal.

Thanks to all that have provided input/guidance., I'll keep yall updated.

 

[norcalbowler94]

After reading this thread I checked my rear tires and I didn't see the same wear on the inside. They have been inflated around 40-43 psi cold. I measured the tread depth and it's 7/32 in the rear and 8/32 in the front. I have 14k miles on 21" p zeros.

 

[fiehlsport]

They gave me the car back at 5 and said "you're ready!"

Thanks to all that have provided input/guidance., I'll keep yall updated.

I *hate* when shops act like this. They wanted to charge you $275 for an alignment check.

After reading this thread I checked my rear tires and I didn't see the same wear on the inside. They have been inflated around 40-43 psi cold. I measured the tread depth and it's 7/32 in the rear and 8/32 in the front. I have 14k miles on 21" p zeros.

Measure the inside, middle, and outside tread depths on the rear tires. You will likely see some variation. With 7/32", inner tread wear won't be as evident since the whole tire hasn't worn enough to cause it to be bald on the inside yet. OP's tires look to be around 3-4/32" in the middle, which is why the inner bar is so worn.

To those saying it isn't normal - check back once your tread in the middle of the tire is actually low. The inside rib should be nearly gone by then.

 

[240vPlug]

The P runs a staggered setup. Warranty on the rear tires is halved when running staggered. I believe they have a 45,000 mile treadwear warranty so 22,500 on the rears.

 

[norcalbowler94]

I *hate* when shops act like this. They wanted to charge you $275 for an alignment check.


Measure the inside, middle, and outside tread depths on the rear tires. You will likely see some variation. With 7/32", inner tread wear won't be as evident since the whole tire hasn't worn enough to cause it to be bald on the inside yet. OP's tires look to be around 3-4/32" in the middle, which is why the inner bar is so worn.

To those saying it isn't normal - check back once your tread in the middle of the tire is actually low. The inside rib should be nearly gone by then.

I *hate* when shops act like this. They wanted to charge you $275 for an alignment check.


Measure the inside, middle, and outside tread depths on the rear tires. You will likely see some variation. With 7/32", inner tread wear won't be as evident since the whole tire hasn't worn enough to cause it to be bald on the inside yet. OP's tires look to be around 3-4/32" in the middle, which is why the inner bar is so worn.

To those saying it isn't normal - check back once your tread in the middle of the tire is actually low. The inside rib should be nearly gone by then.

I did measure all the way around. I recalled the front driver side being 7/32 towards the outside. Kind of surprised they were uniformed. I am was expecting more wear but I am not as aggressive a driver as I used to be. The rib in the middle is disappearing.

 

[rickybobbee]

I *hate* when shops act like this. They wanted to charge you $275 for an alignment check.


Measure the inside, middle, and outside tread depths on the rear tires. You will likely see some variation. With 7/32", inner tread wear won't be as evident since the whole tire hasn't worn enough to cause it to be bald on the inside yet. OP's tires look to be around 3-4/32" in the middle, which is why the inner bar is so worn.

To those saying it isn't normal - check back once your tread in the middle of the tire is actually low. The inside rib should be nearly gone by then.

I just replaced mine and totally even wear until so bald one blew out. I ran most of the time 38 psi......as low as 36, high as 42. This tells me maybe some of the setups are a bit off.......just like panel gaps and other telsa assembly can be off etc....
I yes I can believe shops act lilke this. If they think you don't know what's going on they will soak every last dime. "inflation" is the most popular word of the day right now to gauge even more

 

[norcalbowler94]

I did measure all the way around. I recalled the front driver side being 7/32 towards the outside. Kind of surprised they were uniformed. I am was expecting more wear but I am not as aggressive a driver as I used to be. The rib in the middle is disappearing.

I remeasured and rears are actually 6/32 but the same all around. The fronts are 8/32 in the middle and 7/32 towards the outside. The middle thread still have the ribs in them.

 

[norcalbowler94]

I just replaced mine and totally even wear until so bald one blew out. I ran most of the time 38 psi......as low as 36, high as 42. This tells me maybe some of the setups are a bit off.......just like panel gaps and other telsa assembly can be off etc....
I yes I can believe shops act lilke this. If they think you don't know what's going on they will soak every last dime. "inflation" is the most popular word of the day right now to gauge even more

I have a late 2021 build and the SA at the sc told me I was one of the lucky ones.

 

[GASF16]

I have a late 2021 build and the SA at the sc told me I was one of the lucky ones.

They gave me the car back at 5 and said "you're ready!" I asked for the alignment specs printed out, they struggled with that and gave me a picture it looked like they took with a phone printed out of the specs showing camber juuuuuuuuuust in spec and said I was good to go. Had a short discussion about how I specifically said I didn't want to pay them $275 to not do anything and tell me things were in spec by a very small hair and the service writer seemed to remember what we talked about. I also reminded him he had claimed the camber was adjustable. I then told him look, the rear camber and toe are pretty much as is since the links are not adjustable, he still seemed confused. I asked him, if it's adjustable, then I want to see the camber centered at where they show is optimal (0.8*) and asked him to see if the alignment guy could do that. He walked back and quickly came back out to tell me that I was right, it is what it is and they can't change it. After a little bit more back and forth including the above mentioned theory on lowering/etc, (I was not happy) he agreed to remove the charge for the alignment.

I left somewhat unhappy but at least not out the $$ for the work that was somewhat in vain. Still a little stumped that tesla delivers a car like that with such an out of whack alignment and says it's good to go. It would be different if it were a track car but it's not. It's a family car for every day that is lowered with wide wheels/tires to look cool and handle better (which it does). I mean hell it doesn't even have a track mode you literally can't even drive it that hard. I did get my trailer brake controller pigtail so I can finally do my Radar Detector install.... that's a win.

Anyhow, I'll be making a few calls in the AM to look for adjustable stuff. I'm hoping that I can find some links with OEM style joints. Anything track oriented wears too quickly I've found, especially in our harsh climate. We do a lot of highway miles in slush, snow, ice, salt, sand and live on a dirt road that gets muddy and dusty and is at the end of a 4 mile mountain road. I'll call you guys at MPP also and chat, thanks for posting up, much appreciated.

I get all winter to think about summer rubber since the winter tire/wheel combo goes on tonight again. I don't mind the bigger wheels, with a proper alignment wear will be normal.

Thanks to all that have provided input/guidance., I'll keep yall updated.

 

[GASF16]

This tire and upper control arm are from the right rear of a 2020 MYLR. It's my wife's car and is driven somewhat conservatively. No racing and no off-roading. This tire has 14K miles, but all of the wear cuts through the cord on the inside of the tire. I did a rough camber check and I think it's about -3 degrees, assuming my garage floor is level. Regardless, the negative camber is obvious visually. Shockingly, the upper control arm mount appears bent and shows signs of stress fractures/cracking. The arm itself appears OK. Our alignment appointment is in 16 days. Are there any experts that have advice on how to deal with this? I'm considering the aftermarket adjustable control arms, but want to make sure the mount is OK first.

 

[fiehlsport]

The flaking of the paint around the bolt looks like it might've seen an impact at some point. Perhaps you'd be a good candidate for the adjustable arms. Definitely more than 2º!