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Rear trunk won't open

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Yes, obviously nanny did the programming. It's a shame for me that it happened as I was packing the car for a 700km drive with no driver assistance features
Heh - Mine occurred after loading shopping from supermarket at supercharger, though was only for another 200miles - you don’t realise how much you value something like autopilot until you don’t have it :)
 
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Looks like I'm unfortunately joining the club :(

Today when I arrived home (with groceries in the trunk!) the trunk would not open via the fob, Control screen, nor exterior latch switch on the rear/outside of the trunk. Just 3 beeps each time I try, but no motion. Trying to force/lift the trunk open does nothing. Likewise pressing down in case something's not latched correctly doesn't do anything either. I've had no problems with the trunk before today's sudden failure.

Meanwhile the MCU shows the trunk open, as does the dash display. Because of that, I can't lock the car using the fob.
I also notice that the car won't auto-lock (I have walk away door lock set to ON) - I left the car in the garage and when I came back after dinner to check, the door handles were still extended and lit.

But thanks to this thread I learned I could press the lock icon on the 17" screen or lock button in the Control screen before exiting, and upon closing the door they all lock. The downside to this method is that it doesn't retract the side mirrors, which I have set to normally auto fold on locking the car.

I have not tried to drive the car since the trunk failed, but I did put it in reverse just to quickly check if an open trunk would prevent that (luckily, it doesn't prevent engaging R or D). But I guess that warning on the dash is going to be in my face until I get this fixed... and yeah I read in other posts that TACC and AP are also disabled if the trunk is "open". Annoying.

maybe a total coincidence, but this morning I got a "Systems are Powering Up..." message which wouldn't go away for the first time ever (seen many times before but they always clear within a minute). Needed a reboot to get rid of that.

I guess I'll be making a call to my Service Centre tomorrow am.... hopefully quick to get an appointment
 
I'm suggesting to Tesla that they bring in an option via a software update for the emergency call centre to be able to override the changes that result from the faulty trunk open signal. Not everyone can get to a service centre promptly nor get their car fixed quickly but it would be useful to be able to lock the car and to use Autopilot - you certainly won't be driving with the trunk open if the lock is jammed!
It would help if others made the same suggestion to Tesla
 
Is there any amount of regular maintenance, such as cleaning or lubricating the mechanism, that might prevent this latch from failing to work?

I'm wondering if it fails because of increased resistance or lack of freedom of motion... causing binding, stretching, snapping, or grinding of gears ... that might be kept away with lube?

If so, what lube.. where / how to apply, etc? Just looking for opinions here...
 
It looks like the earliest Service Center appointment I could get is 2 weeks away :( , though hoping for a cancellation/opening earlier

in the interim, it's only day 1 after my trunk failed and the audible warning when I try to drive with the trunk "open" is already driving me crazy. It seems to beep repeatedly for a full minute (40 triple beeps) after you put the car into Drive or Reverse. At least it does finally stop...

Anyone know if there's a way to cancel the audio alert?

I tried pressing the exclamation point icon on the top of the 17" screen and then acknowledged the warning message that appeared, hoping that would silence the alarm, but no dice.

oh, and another annoyance I just discovered, maybe someone else mentioned it earlier... with car thinking the trunk is "open" even though it's not, you can't remotely turn on the HVAC via smartphone app. That's really annoying, this time of year.

and FWIW, in the 2+ years of owning the car, I hadn't previously noticed any binding/grinding/increased resistance/etc to the trunk motion before it suddenly failed yesterday. Maybe it's just a bad batch of actuators, or they just fail after a certain number of opening/closing cycles? My car is a Nov 2015 build, btw
 
As one of the early sufferers of this issue, I have no helpful advice to offer.

It does seem to be clustered around a particular vintage of cars from around 2015 (perhaps some late 2014s or early 2016s thrown in). You wonder if Tesla has accumulated enough information to identify which VINs are at risk for the problem. A proactive recall would be nice, but I don't know if (a) this has reach enough level of seriousness (as opposed to level of annoyance) in Tesla's mind to warrant it or (b) Tesla's service centers are even in a position to handle large-scale recalls anymore.
 
I would imagine there’s a TSB for this now, though don’t believe there’s any way to be proactive about this as there’s no precursor to failure. Even taking our feedback into account, it’s still in the noise level vs how many cars from late 14 to early 16?

The lack of auto locking is an issue and although there’s a workaround, using the center display before exit, there’s no indication that this change of behavior happens to the driver.
In addition to this, Pre-conditioning, and AP one would could be manually over-ridden after additional user acceptance... again though, likely not the highest priority
 
The only solution to the annoying beep is to turn up the music volume:).
Well, thankfully I stumbled upon a way to silence the annoying trunk open beep, which as I said goes on for a full minute once you put the car into Drive or Reverse. For reference in case anyone else is unlucky and gets this problem, here’s how:

- with foot on the brake, put the car into Drive or Reverse (annoying Trunk Open beep starts)
- momentarily open the driver’s door
- you now get a Driver’s Door Open warning on the dash
- close the door - the warning beeps stop!
- drive away in peaceful silence
(You can achieve the same by having your passenger open/close their door after you put the car into D or R)

You have to do this every time you drive, but it’s better than listening to the constant beeping while you wait for a service appointment.
 
update: Tesla Mobile Service visited me today, instead of having to wait another week for my original Service Centre appointment.

Problem solved, fixed under warranty - same as others have reported, it was caused by a seized cinching actuator. Internal emergency release didn't seem to work either. Replaced the actuator and the liftgate latch.
 
Ok, issue resolved:
  1. Remove the parcel shelf supports
  2. Remove headliner side bolsters around the trunk opening
  3. Remove the bridge plastic trim at the top of the lift gate
  4. Remove the side vertical plastic trim from each side of the lift gate
  5. Pop loose the top of the rear plastic trim from the lift gate
    ( it won't fully disengage due to the handle inserts at the bottom of the lift gate )
  6. Reach down with a small flat screwdriver and disengage the power lead to the Clinch motor
  7. Using the small flat screwdriver, rotate the clinch motor emergency release mechanism
    ( Rotary pulley looking thing on the back side of the clinch motor )
  8. Viola! lift gate released!
  9. Open lift gate
  10. Fully remove remaining trim panel
  11. Remove Clinch motor ( 3 torx screws )
  12. Install new Clinch Motor
  13. Test lift gate functionality
  14. Re-install all trim
    ( Replace any trim which has broken bits )
FYI - Step 7 is a bear... you gotta be a contortionist and pressed up against the glass of the lift gate to pop that thing.

Hope this process helps someone else to at least get the lift gate open. Releasing the clinch motor may free up whatever caused it to bind and allow it to work normally until you can get a service appt or a ranger to visit. Or, maybe this will help you guide a ranger on what needs to be done.

This thread helped me as I was able to advise the ranger to bring a clinch motor (which he normally didn't have with him). He said he's only seen lift gate issues 3 times in the past X years he's worked at Tesla (including time working at the factory), so the failure rate on these is low. Further, this was the first time he's had to use this process to open a stuck lift gate.

LK


Hi. I found this thread and just registered in this forum. I’m German, so sorry for my bad English (only school English).

I just came back from skiing holidays, arrived at home and tada ... the trunk won’t open

Of course the emergency unlock didn’t work.

So because I’m out of warranty and 3,5 hours away from the next SeC, I would try my best, to get it fixed.

Just a few questions to your guide to fix it:

1. How do I remove the parts you have discribed? Is there any trick to remove the parts from No 1-5? Or can I pull the headliner, and the covers simply out?

2. To find what I’m searching for, how does the Cinch Motor itself and how does the its emergency release mechanism looke like?

3. You are writing about disengaging the powerlead to the cinch Motor .... how does this powerlead look like?

Are there pictures to my questions No 1-3 to finde in this forum?

Thanks in advance

Flo

(Who just wanted a lazy Sunday, but now has to try get the fu,/€7@ Trunk done )
Thanks for the great tip locking the car, although the trunk is opened a bit
 
This weekend it was my turn to experience this on my MS from late March 2016 . Obviously, these things only happen when you actually use the trunk (or you wouldn't notice)!

Luckily I didn't read this thread first, so I took the car to Tesla this morning, and told them that my car is useless now, since I cannot lock it. -And now I've read that some of you have found an ingenious way to lock the car anyways. I almost regret being stern at Tesla, saying they need to fix it now, since it would be cool to test if locking through the center screen actually does the trick :)

I showed up at the SC, they told me "we have drop-ins from 1 PM", and I just had to convince them that for me, going back home to park the car safely in my garage (since it cannot be locked), then going to work, going back from work early to go all the way home, and then coming back to Tesla is not a good option. -So they let me leave it in their garage, and promised to fix it today :)
 
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Hi. I found this thread and just registered in this forum. I’m German, so sorry for my bad English (only school English).

I just came back from skiing holidays, arrived at home and tada ... the trunk won’t open

Of course the emergency unlock didn’t work.

So because I’m out of warranty and 3,5 hours away from the next SeC, I would try my best, to get it fixed.

Just a few questions to your guide to fix it:

1. How do I remove the parts you have discribed? Is there any trick to remove the parts from No 1-5? Or can I pull the headliner, and the covers simply out?

2. To find what I’m searching for, how does the Cinch Motor itself and how does the its emergency release mechanism looke like?

3. You are writing about disengaging the powerlead to the cinch Motor .... how does this powerlead look like?

Are there pictures to my questions No 1-3 to finde in this forum?

Thanks in advance

Flo

(Who just wanted a lazy Sunday, but now has to try get the fu,/€7@ Trunk done )
Thanks for the great tip locking the car, although the trunk is opened a bit

Did you fix it?

Please someone take pictures of faulty part, open the lift actuator and see if it is serviceable for us who are off warranty.

Thanks
 
I had my trunk failing on me this morning. A 7 month old 100D. Closed the lid with my groceries in and it did close but gave an alarm. Tried opening it again to no avail. Since I was only 5km from SEC I drove there but they couldn't get it open either. Since I read this thread I know what the problem is when they call me on monday...
 
Mine was fixed at the SC. However, in order to fix it, they had to break away a lot of the plastic trim in the hatch, and I had to come back the next day to have that fitted.

During the process, they also managed to scratch my bumper, so at my next service appointment (in a couple of weeks), I will get the bumper repainted.

-But, as far as I can tell, it seems like this is not a trivial thing to do by yourself. It can obviously be done, but you should be prepared to replace some plastic afterwards.