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Rear trunk won't open

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In my case it was just the cinch motor. Fortunately replacement is trivial if you catch it before it fails as you don't have to reak trim apart from within a closed interior just to get to the darn thing.
I always was under the impression looking at UTUBE videos anyone interested I can tell you where it at .that every system in the car looking
at log files has certain voltage that



must maintain that so if that log system see change it would notify you and would get a warning before a major failure. I seen logs that every car Computer checks certain parameter
for a device ie: if it see changes to let’s say
headlights power and not to set specifications it’s possible failure to happen, they said every switch, electrical system unit are monitored and they are Thousands, so why doesn’t the car log warn you before there’s a major failure . That why Elon stressed that they are safest, and technological cars on the road. I just don’t get it with all the problems with the cars I seen so far.
 
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Sorry my iPhone went haywire for sec. regarding these Failures. always was under the impression looking at UTUBE videos anyone interested I can tell you where it at .that every system in the car looking
at log files has certain voltage that it
must maintain that ,so if that log system see change it noticed you would get a warning before a major failure. I seen logs that every car Computer checks certain parameter
for a device ie: if it see changes to let’s say headlights power and not to set specifications it’s possible failure to happen, they said every switch, electrical system unit are monitored and they are Thousands, so why doesn’t the car log warn you before there’s a major failure . That why Elon stressed that they are safest, and technological cars on the road. I just don’t get it with all the problems with the cars I seen so far.
 
After i hand washed car wash yesterday ,tried to use lift gate , push switch on trunk fail to open, heard 2 beeps , inside same as everyone else, shows as open , won't do not lock and loss of auto pilot . Mgf Dec. 2016 . Only one thing noticed large gap at top where window gate meets top window. And seems at bottom very tiny gap is this normal or possible hinge gape maybe needing adjusted ?? See attached pic. And Wandering if everyone else has same condition as far gap condition. Thanks

Interesting, mine just failed after a car wash also. Wondering if there is a pattern there...
 
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Thanks Vinc,
I had them repair at my home, it took apx. 2 1/2 hours to tear open panels on gate and inside the car to get to it. But while he was reassembling it, broke wire that controls the beeps that you hear and will have to return lagain to replace that wire harness least
it works for now. Vinc, do you have large gap where top “Window meets hatch window” and bottom where hatch and body meets is very tight see photos. I ask what spec. are he has no idea for gap Tolerances.
 
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Thanks Vinc,
I had them repair at my home, it took apx. 2 1/2 hours to tear open panels on gate and inside the car to get to it. But while he was reassembling it, broke wire that controls the beeps that you hear and will have to return lagain to replace that wire harness least
it works for now. Vinc, do you have large gap where top “Window meets hatch window” and bottom where hatch and body meets is very tight see photos. I ask what spec. are he has no idea for gap Tolerances.

The service center was very good. They let me stop by right away and the car is there now. They said that all the parts were available and the car should be ready before EOD today. They gave me a $100 coupon to use Lyft as needed.

I think my hatch was fully closed, because the car actually autolocked as usual and I could not see any light leaking into the trunk. But of course it was giving me the warning that the trunk was open.

I wonder if the issue is triggered by the hatch being closed manually. That would explain why it happens after washing the car (person at the carwash did not use the button?). It seems far fetched that it could have to do with water...
 
Thanks Vinc,
I had them repair at my home, it took apx. 2 1/2 hours to tear open panels on gate and inside the car to get to it. But while he was reassembling it, broke wire that controls the beeps that you hear and will have to return lagain to replace that wire harness least

Interesting. I didn’t mention when I earlier in this thread reported my own mobile service repair of this same problem, but my repair guy also broke the wire/connection to the beeper when he fixed my latch. I didn’t notice until after he left so he had to return the next day to fix the wire

Perhaps not surprising, since opening the stuck truck seemed to be quite awkward, requiring the guy to climb inside then trunk and fumble around in the confined space. Maybe easy to snag the wire.

Perhaps Tesla needs to make some note in their repair procedures warning about this.
 
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Quick update. I picked up the car and the issue was fixed as promised. They replaced the cinch motor and the hatch is as good as new.

What is not as good as new is the bumper. When I got back home I realized that the bumper had a scratch right along the edge of the hatch. Like if the hatch had been closed and it hit the bumper somehow. I already sent pictures to the service department (the center was already closed) and I should be hearing back within the next few days...
 

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My Sept 2017 Model S just had the same problem. Service replaced these parts under warranty:

CINCHING ACTUATOR (1003549-00-A)
ASY LIFTGATE LATCH PWR REL (6006654-00-B)

The parts weren't in stock so the car was in the shop for 5 days.

The problem occurred when the trunk latched closed but the car still thought the trunk was open. The next morning it didn't look fully closed, and then it actually opened when I tried. When closing it again, it latched too early so the trunk wouldn't close! I drove it to the service center with the trunk strapped down.
 
The problem occurred when the trunk latched closed but the car still thought the trunk was open. The next morning it didn't look fully closed, and then it actually opened when I tried. When closing it again, it latched too early so the trunk wouldn't close! I drove it to the service center with the trunk strapped down.

Just to be crystal, the latch never finishes fully closing because the cinch motor stops just short of finishing it's cycle. Replacing just my cinch motor completely fixed the issue.
 
I have mobile service scheduled but I have to drive five hours today and the thought of doing so without autopilot (or without even basic cruise control) was not appealing to me, so I followed linuxkidd's directions to bypass the cinching actuator. I had no luck trying to rotate the thing, but I was able to get a flat screwdriver between the wheel and the motor to pop it off the axis, which released the trunk successfully. I can now open the trunk like normal, but it needs to be manually closed (and slammed), otherwise it latches slightly ajar.
 
This just happened to my wife with 2 kids in the RFS - whoops! 2017 Model S with a late July build date.

Same as everybody else on this thread, no real issue other than an inconvenience of having the kids climb out of the trunk through the middle seats.

Now that I'm reading through this thread, I distinctly recall not noticing the cinch motor within the last few weeks of closing the trunk. It wasn't silent every time, but I thought to myself, "Weird - when I close the trunk, usually I hear the latch, then the whirrrrrr motor sound of it sucking in... now I don't hear it every time? Maybe something to do with a change in temperature? Software update? [shrug]"

Well, now I know! It must've been a sign of impending failure. We use the RFS every day, so the trunk gets opened/closed a LOT (probably compared to most folks who rarely use the trunk.)

On hold with the local service center now. Hoping we can do this with a ranger visit vs. a trip to the SC, but we'll see.
 
Mine failed yesterday.... for the second time. Not quite to 100,000 km. I'd have to look to see when it was replaced the last time, but not that long ago.

Of course, the 'emergency' cable does absolutely nothing, which seems to be a common complaint. Not sure what the point of it being there is if it also fails with the electric actuator.

The worst part is that I can't lock the car. This is a software FAIL in my opinion. There should be some sort of override available to allow the car to be locked and unlocked as normal, while waiting to get in for a repair. I'm stuck to wait until January 7th for mobile service to get back to my area. So essentially 3 weeks where I can't reasonably use the car... I could happily live without easy access to the rear cargo space for that time, but I can't drive the car around with the doors not locking. Totally avoidable problem with a software tweak.

Apparently, I can get the work done earlier if I can get to the nearest service center on Boxing Day. I may have to do that, but it's a 4.5 hour trip each way in good weather, over the Highway From Hell in winter. And I'm sure Boxing Day traffic will be a joy...

I don't even use the hatch that much...two or three times a week - maybe. I think I'll suggest that they take a really close look at the hatch latching mechanism alignment because I don't think they should fail every 50,000 km (30,000 miles).
 
My update has a happy ending, albeit 6 hours that I wish I didn’t have to spend (SC is 1 hour away from home, which I know is light years better than some of you who have a multi+ hour journey...)

Since I knew I wouldn’t be able to reach anybody directly and the mobile techs are slammed, I had the day off for various appointments anyway, I drove to the SC. They were (not shockingly) slammed between deliveries and service, but credit to them for taking the time to try and find a solution. (Shout-our to Rich in Devon - THANK YOU!)

Thankfully they had both the cinching motor and latch in-stock and managed to fit me in. Took them a LONG time to get the damned trunk open (definitely seems like a pretty bad design flaw if the emergency latch can’t even override this, though it’s possible that one can use enough force to break the trunk open in an emergency.)

Same parts as previous posters- cinching actuator and latch/lift assemblies. Works like a charm (again.)

I guess the only interesting thing to note is that there WAS a brief sign of impending failure over the last couple of weeks on our car- the cinching motor simply didn’t work or make the whirrring sound upon closing about 50% or more of the time. I chalked it up to weather or software or slight shift in alignment, but in hindsight, I wish I had caught it earlier as it’s a “cinch” to replace while the trunk can still open and close.

Anecdotes: They are still woefully understaffed and under-service-centered and they know it. But even with some lousy customers being annoying, the Tesla staff was continually friendly, helpful, engaging, and clearly were doing all they could. (Example: One guy came in with a tire issue, they said once they got the wheel off, they found a plug on the sidewall, the guy said he’s never had a tire issue before and doesn’t know where the plug came from, it must be Tesla’s fault...)

They’re also delivering a boatload of cars. Truck rolls in, newly detailed cars roll out, people come in for orientation, people leave in new cars, rinse repeat.
 
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Ok, issue resolved:
  1. Remove the parcel shelf supports
  2. Remove headliner side bolsters around the trunk opening
  3. Remove the bridge plastic trim at the top of the lift gate
  4. Remove the side vertical plastic trim from each side of the lift gate
  5. Pop loose the top of the rear plastic trim from the lift gate
    ( it won't fully disengage due to the handle inserts at the bottom of the lift gate )
  6. Reach down with a small flat screwdriver and disengage the power lead to the Clinch motor
  7. Using the small flat screwdriver, rotate the clinch motor emergency release mechanism
    ( Rotary pulley looking thing on the back side of the clinch motor )
  8. Viola! lift gate released!
  9. Open lift gate
  10. Fully remove remaining trim panel
  11. Remove Clinch motor ( 3 torx screws )
  12. Install new Clinch Motor
  13. Test lift gate functionality
  14. Re-install all trim
    ( Replace any trim which has broken bits )
FYI - Step 7 is a bear... you gotta be a contortionist and pressed up against the glass of the lift gate to pop that thing.

Hope this process helps someone else to at least get the lift gate open. Releasing the clinch motor may free up whatever caused it to bind and allow it to work normally until you can get a service appt or a ranger to visit. Or, maybe this will help you guide a ranger on what needs to be done.

This thread helped me as I was able to advise the ranger to bring a clinch motor (which he normally didn't have with him). He said he's only seen lift gate issues 3 times in the past X years he's worked at Tesla (including time working at the factory), so the failure rate on these is low. Further, this was the first time he's had to use this process to open a stuck lift gate.

LK
Thanks, I just had this happen and I largely followed this to repair it with this slight variation:
For step 7, what I did was unscrew the 3 Torx screws holding the motor, and when removed, it can be driven manually by a big Torx bit, this in turn unlatched it.

Probably only just slightly easier than trying to jimmy it with a screw driver, although word of warning, for the bottom screw, you need a ratcheting screwdriver wrench, since access is tight. Something like this from Sears:
Welcome to Sears.com

I only replaced the clinch motor, which luckily my local service center in Costa Mesa CA had in stock. Basically a $69 repair versus $700 odd.
 
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I have a quick question for anybody inclined to chime in: Last night after unloading the kids from the trunk, I closed the trunk but did *not* hear the cinch motor. It LOOKED closed and the dash indicated all doors were closed, so I opened it and closed it about 5 times. Out of those 5 or so times, the cinch motor never kicked on a single time, though the trunk seemed to open and close just fine.

I thought “Here we go again...” but then before I was about to give up, I tried one last time and then it cinched and sucked the trunk lid down.

Question for others: Does your cinch motor ALWAYS engage every single time you close the trunk?

I’m going to do some more testing tonight to see if it was a fluke, a coincidence, “by design,” or sign that something is still amiss.

Thanks in advance!
 
I may have answered my own question, but would be great if somebody else could verify?

Looks like if any of the main doors (front/rear, driver/passenger) are open and you close the trunk, it does *not* engage the cinching actuator/motor. If all the main doors are closed and you close the trunk, it engages the cinching motor.

This kind of makes sense from a pressure standpoint- the trunk door is huge and that’s a lot of air resistance to overcome so it seems it may “bounce” when closing when all the doors are close thus needing a little extra help from the cinching motor.

Thoughts? Am I crazy? Has this behavior changed over the years?
 
Same problem on my S now (06/2016). I have an appointment on Monday to get it fixed.
Thanks to this thread, I was able to tell them what they most likely need to replace and asked them to give me a call to confirm, that the parts are in stock, before I come in.
Also a big thank you for the tip on how to lock the car in this case!