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Rear trunk won't open

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I had the same issue this week as others on here where the cinching actuator appears to have failed.

What worked for me was following the steps in this video to get the trunk open again:

The trunk would latch, but it wasn't latching properly, so I had to follow the video steps to get it open again. Note, as pts260 said
"the connector was the black one on the Top left instead of bottom right as shown at 1:08 ."

What worked for me to keep it closed, and closed on the instrument cluster, so you can lock the vehicle and use automation, was adjusting the trunk hatch adjusters. You can adjust these by hand by turning them. I turned mine clockwise to give the trunk more room to close, and that did the trick.

I have a mobile service appointment coming up for them to take a look at it.
 
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Just joined this club, 2015 70D, out of warranty.

I ended up going through the steps on the video to pop the trunk, and once I got it opened, I then pulled the fuse for the power lift gate (fuse #42 in box #2 for 2015 vintage) and now it operates as a manual trunk (makes the premium package of 2015 not so premium).

The fuse trick seems to be working, I can lock the car, drive the car and just manually open and close the trunk. Hopefully this holds up until I can get service to look at replacing the actuator.
 
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Sigh. Lift gate just failed, just after we had our MCU1 replaced 2 weeks ago. Fortunately not much travel due to pandemic, but sure is annoying. Two week wait for service appointment. Another $300-900 for repair I guess. I’ll try everyone’s recommendations and pull some fuses. Hopefully the smoke will clear up soon in PDX so I can do it safely outside
 
Hi everyone. My first message here so it has to be worth it. I have a MS dec 2015 70D and the trunk wont open/close. Just as every one else it beeps 3 times and is not clossing properly so I was not able to lock the car. Luckly I found that youtube video too and pulled the black connector about 3 times before it opened. I closed it manually. And the car can lock now, just have to remember not to use it for next 1.5 months until I get to SC in Vienna. No rangers in my Country. And yes I did notice that it was closing badly sometimes it got sucked down and sometimes it just slammed like on my 15year old ICE car. Too bad I canceled my service other appointment just day before. Did not want to risk it due to covid, now I have to anyway.
 
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Based on the youtube video above and the service manuals I have yesterday replaced the Cinching actuator and trunk is now back to normal operation. As I don't have access to Tesla service center nearby(Vienna is closest 5hours away) and some one here mentioned that Mercedes has the same part I went and asked. Seems the actuator is also from a Mercedes estate/combi W212. Part number A 204 750 00 60 see attached pictures. Cost me 68.60euros with a 5% discount I got.

trunk.jpg part.jpg
 
I just had this failure as well. I think I pull everything apart and order up a mobile tech visit. $329 is not a bad price (if that is what they are now charging). Has anyone had any luck getting the part from the SC and installing it themselves?
 
I just had this failure as well. I think I pull everything apart and order up a mobile tech visit. $329 is not a bad price (if that is what they are now charging). Has anyone had any luck getting the part from the SC and installing it themselves?

I also have the same issue, I’m wondering how come this is not a recall after years of issues for thousands of cars?! I worked for Mercedes for years and now I’m with BMW, somebody mentioned this part is a part that Mercedes uses, never remember clients coming back for this frequently for new/fairly new cars. I just can’t see this happening on a 100k car and no recall?!!!
 
I have the same actuator issue with my 2015 85D, however my issue seems to stretch beyond only being the actuator. The lift gate seems to cut out from time to time along with the power to the actuator. The actuator movement is also limited, hence no closing of the trunk. I believe the actuator might be on the same 30a fuse as the liftgate, which I have checked and all is well with that. Anyone experienced that the power to the liftgate also cutting? I will order a new actuator, but suspect it might be a bigger issue.
 
I discovered by accident that my liftgate opens if you "surprise" the car when it has been idle for a long time (hours, it seems). If you walk quickly up from the back and press the button it pops the liftgate and you can manually catch it and lift - but if you do not, then in about a second the car changes its mind and shuts it, but then complains the gate is still open. If you manually close the gate it shuts properly but then the next time you press the button the car refuses.

So, in my case the latch and actuator are working just fine but the car is clearly getting a sensor reading saying the liftgate is open,, when it is not. This causes the permanent alarm on screen when driving, and stops it commanding the actuator. I am not sure where the sensor is: possibly the sensor is in the latch assembly? That might be the real reason replacing that fixes things. There are no signs of undue wear on the latch and no indication of distress when it does pop the latch by surprise.
 
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I experienced the trunk issue earlier this month on my 2015 70D. Initially, mobile service was scheduled about 5 days later, but it ended up being rescheduled to 8 days beyond that to allow "arrival of parts." I only made one short drive in the interim.

The day before the service, I tried again to "surprise" the car as Tanj mentioned, and it worked! I put a towel in the latch to keep it from getting stuck again.

My invoice lists the CINCHING ACTUATOR(1003549-00-B) @$70 and ASY LIFTGATE LATCH PWR REL(6006654-00-B) @$43.

Total was $323 + tax, which included 1.2 labor hours.

This was my first mobile service, and I was happy with the process. In non-COVID times, I probably wouldn't have liked the 2-week wait.
 
My cinch motor has been replaced twice now. The light finally dawned on me that if you give the trunk a little shove when almost closed, the mechanism grabs without using the cinch motor. Service tells me that's just fine - the motor is there to do that bit of work for us if we don't want to do it ourselves.

So I've been doing that for the last couple of years and so far, the odd time I don't, it's been fine. Essentially, I'm avoiding unnecessary wear on the unit. Hopefully it will avoid a replacement every year and a half to two years as I was doing before...
 
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