richrootes
Member
The official name of the part is Cinching Actuator:
HIGH FORCE CINCHING ACTUATOR(1003549- 00-D)
This is the Cincher - somewhat confusing I know
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Rear trunk won't open
- Thread starter commasign
- Start date
HIGH FORCE CINCHING ACTUATOR(1003549- 00-D)
This is the Cincher - somewhat confusing I know
⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️
Village Idiot
This is legit. I got a year subscription to the shop manuals for $0.From green @greentheonly - $0 Service Manual Subscription; I was able to subscribe.
(Edit - fixed wording to better match what is free)
View attachment 806427
Last edited:
My 2015 Model S actuator quit yesterday...lift gate was closed and locked...with the help of the video posted in this thread , I was able to open the lift gate, and then remove the required panels to expose the wiring and actuator. Emergency exit cable didn't budge.
With the free 1 year subscription to the Service Manual mentioned in the previous post, I was able to find the lift gate ajar/open switch and their wires. The schematic showed that when those circuits are open, it signals that the lift gate is open or ajar. So I cut those wires about 3-4 inches from the latch mechanism and now have no Door Open warning while driving and have full use of TACC and Autosteer. I will solder the wires back together after I get the new Actuator. I have a "manual" lift gate in the meantime. NBD
The two wires going to the actuator showed 13V plus when I plugged/unplugged the black connector inside the right side panel (top left not bottom right). I opened up the actuator and applied 11.1v DC...the magic smoke came out of the little motor when I ran it both forward and reverse. I guess it's shot.
Now, where can I find a cinching actuator?
Thanks for sharing all the info!
With the free 1 year subscription to the Service Manual mentioned in the previous post, I was able to find the lift gate ajar/open switch and their wires. The schematic showed that when those circuits are open, it signals that the lift gate is open or ajar. So I cut those wires about 3-4 inches from the latch mechanism and now have no Door Open warning while driving and have full use of TACC and Autosteer. I will solder the wires back together after I get the new Actuator. I have a "manual" lift gate in the meantime. NBD
The two wires going to the actuator showed 13V plus when I plugged/unplugged the black connector inside the right side panel (top left not bottom right). I opened up the actuator and applied 11.1v DC...the magic smoke came out of the little motor when I ran it both forward and reverse. I guess it's shot.
Now, where can I find a cinching actuator?
Thanks for sharing all the info!
doctorwho
Active Member
Another year, another cinch actuator gone. Actually it seems to happen every two years, third one in 7 years
⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️
Village Idiot
I got mine from the service center for $70. That's the only part I needed to fix the problem. By the time I had the car back together I had wished I had had mobile service do the job for $280. It probably would have been less if I told them to only replace the cincher. Not sure if that would have been option or not. The problem was putting that large plastic interior panel back on by myself. That was a bitch.
Happened to my wife's 2016 Model S. Trunk to body seam on right side was also out of alignment - trunk was higher than body. My connnector was black, located upper left. Could hear clicks as I unplugged and plugged it in, but trunk did not open. Left it unplugged and tried the outside manual latch button on the back of the trunk, and after three presses on the latch it opened. Was able to close it by hand and re-open it with the outside latch. Left the module unplugged. Have a repair appointment.
I just joined the club. 2015 70D. Service appt at Knoxville SC scheduled. Will see what they quote for a price. If it’s high I’ll go get the Cinch actuator and DIY.
This problem seems so frequent, maybe I should have it done proactively....Might be worth the $200 just to avoid the hassle of a sudden failure.
cousin_IT
Face provided by boredhumans.com
Just joined this club while on holiday in Prague. Will call the SC on Monday and see if they have the part and perform the repair on the campsite. If not I’ll have to drive back home without TACC…
D Unit
Member
cousin_IT
Face provided by boredhumans.com
Got it fixed, part was available at SC and was a < 1 hr job. I took the trouble of tearing apart the old module but it looked good (all the gears were undamaged and well-lubricated). If it really is this part then it has to be the motor that is worn out from the inside.
D Unit
Member
Got my car fixed today. Bill came out to $300 or so and literally took the mobile tech 20 minutes to fix. Not bad at all and was completely satisfied with the work.
Jpandes
Member
I just want to say Thank You! to the people who posted on this thread and others. I just had my trunk get stuck closed, one month out of warranty. This saved me $300-500+ bucks. I bought a Mercedes part for $30 and swapped out the part myself. I felt good to cancel the Tesla Service appointment.
Count me in, 2017 100D, out of warranty. I'll follow the video steps to get it open and decide from there whether to attempt DIY or book mobile service.
"Sneak up on the car" while sleeping worked to get it open. Manually closing for now, but going to replace the actuator myself.
Similar threads
