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Rearview mirror housing rattle/vibrations

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I used a screen retainer spline to fill in the empty pocket between the bottom of the housing case and the windshield.
Length used 7 inches
Size .120 Dia (3mm)
Gently make space from one edge of the housing to fit the tip of screen retainer spline, once the tip is in, the rest can be easily to inserted using a plastic paint scraper or a similar tool of yours.
So far, one annoying sound out of the way.

View attachment 940405
View attachment 940407
Thanks for this tip!

I wanted the spline to be black and what Amazon had was .130", or 3.3mm, and was available for overnight delivery for $2.66.

I installed it this morning and the buzzing is gone. One tip for those that do it, be careful how far you push it in, I guess I got a little carried away with the spudger in putting it in and it went past the initial lip and just inside the cavity not doing anything. (It doesn't look like that would happen with yours, so maybe there are slightly different parts depend on when it was built.) I just cut another piece and was more careful the second time.

We drove 169 miles today in blissful silence. :)
 
Thanks for this tip!

I wanted the spline to be black and what Amazon had was .130", or 3.3mm, and was available for overnight delivery for $2.66.

I installed it this morning and the buzzing is gone. One tip for those that do it, be careful how far you push it in, I guess I got a little carried away with the spudger in putting it in and it went past the initial lip and just inside the cavity not doing anything. (It doesn't look like that would happen with yours, so maybe there are slightly different parts depend on when it was built.) I just cut another piece and was more careful the second time.

We drove 169 miles today in blissful silence. :)
Agree with the Tip, don’t get carried away when pushing.
Glad you’re enjoying your ride.
 
I used a screen retainer spline to fill in the empty pocket between the bottom of the housing case and the windshield.
Length used 7 inches
Size .120 Dia (3mm)
Gently make space from one edge of the housing to fit the tip of screen retainer spline, once the tip is in, the rest can be easily to inserted using a plastic paint scraper or a similar tool of yours.
So far, one annoying sound out of the way.

View attachment 940405
View attachment 940407

I just completed this fix, but with the same 3.3mm size as Mike. Worked like a charm, no more rattle even over the bumpiest of roads. Glad I found this thread before making an appt. on our 3 week old 7-seater.
 
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I should have DIY'd this. I brought it up at an unrelated service app't and they scheduled Mobile Service from 8:30am-12:30pm today. Tech called me at 12:27 to tell me he was on his way - not a good start. He used felt tape which he cut with a razor blade. He kept setting the blade on different parts of my car. He tried to line the tape up on the inside of the top of the plastic, but couldn't line it up and you could see the tape all the way around. Then he tried tucking it in. The a couple strings of the frayed tape were sticking out and he pulled those out. That caused tape adhesive to be smeared on the windshield. He also rubbed his greasy hair all over the inside of the windshield. When he was done I asked if he was going to clean his hair product of my windshield. He didn't have ammonia-free cleaner for my tint, so I had to clean up his mess. Total slob. Too bad Tesla doesn't have customer service. No survey yet and I have no confidence I'll get one. I will definitely minimize the use of any Tesla service in the future.
 
Well, it is at least good to know what their solution is. (Or at least that tech's solution.) I wonder if newer covers will come with some kind of isolating material built-in...

I've got enough spline left over for about 50 more Teslas, but it is so cheap that it wouldn't even make sense to send it to anyone.
It's funny - I envisioned some custom felt insert that fit perfectly, but the tech showed me the order from the shop. Something like we are out of felt tape, schedule mobile service. Seems like a huge waste to schedule a mobile service app't. They could just sent someone at the shop or even me to autozone. When are they going to let the FSD consciousness take over these decisions?!?
 
Any one from Seattle area got this issue?
Yup. Intermittent based on road surface and speed not consistent and a little push on the housing usually silenced it temporarily. Been just tolerating it but then I saw this genius screen spline fix. I used a sturdy plastic spoon from an MRE and gently pried the front of the housing away from the windshield enough to insert the rubber spline and worked it in one side to the other. Took less than a minute. Happy now to report no more rattles.
 
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Yup. Intermittent based on road surface and speed not consistent and a little push on the housing usually silenced it temporarily. Been just tolerating it but then I saw this genius screen spline fix. I used a sturdy plastic spoon from an MRE and gently pried the front of the housing away from the windshield enough to insert the rubber spline and worked it in one side to the other. Took less than a minute. Happy now to report no more rattles.
Oh great. Where did you see this genius screen spline fix?
 
Oh great. Where did you see this genius screen spline fix?
Just a few posts back in this thread:
I used a screen retainer spline to fill in the empty pocket between the bottom of the housing case and the windshield.
Length used 7 inches
Size .120 Dia (3mm)
Gently make space from one edge of the housing to fit the tip of screen retainer spline, once the tip is in, the rest can be easily to inserted using a plastic paint scraper or a similar tool of yours.
So far, one annoying sound out of the way.

View attachment 940405
View attachment 940407
 
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i had same rattle from the mirror housing...when taking off the round cap, grab it and tilt it to the side to create a gap. then insert a trim removal tool or a credit card to pry it loose. i then put some strong mounting tape on the inner plastic housing on both sides to hold it tight. also put some masking tape on the outer plastic housing mount holes to hold it tighter when its mounted. driven for few days and no more rattles.
 
I used a screen retainer spline to fill in the empty pocket between the bottom of the housing case and the windshield.
Length used 7 inches
Size .120 Dia (3mm)
Gently make space from one edge of the housing to fit the tip of screen retainer spline, once the tip is in, the rest can be easily to inserted using a plastic paint scraper or a similar tool of yours.
So far, one annoying sound out of the way.

View attachment 940405
View attachment 940407
worked like a champ! Thanks for the simple fix!
 
I believe I've fixed the rattle in my 22 MYP. I used this tool to pry off the lower mirror cover, but any plastic pry tool should work if its thin and strong enough. I just worked it around the until I could hear the clips pop then you can basically pull it straight down and remove.

View attachment 851450

Then I removed the mirror with a T20 torx driver. The manual says you need a security T20, but you don't, there is no center "nub" on the screw itself preventing using a normal T20 torx bit. I found it easier to unclip the wire in the back once the mirror was free and I could turn it around.

View attachment 851452

With mirror out of the way, you just need to use a pry tool to free the upper housing front two clips. They pop off pretty easily. I originally removed the entire upper housing, but that is not necessary. Getting the housing free from the head liner was the toughest part, so I recommend you don't even bother.

View attachment 851453

You just need to free it enough like the next pic shows to install some rubber feet. What I found when I removed the entire upper housing was if I tapped on the triple camera hood (thats the part the upper housing covers), it sounded very similar to when I hear the rattle or buzzing going over rough roads. Like it was vibrating against the windshield or the upper housing cover. Because of this I thought if I could add some rubber feet to the bottom of this cover, with everything back in place, it would be more securely held against either the windshield or the upper housing cover. The arrow shows where I installed the rubber feet. One on each side and one in the center.

View attachment 851461

Here is a pic of the rubber feet I had laying around. I believe they are about 1/8th inch thick.

View attachment 851465

Here is a pic of what it looks like with the rubber feet installed.

View attachment 851468

I then put the upper housing cover back in place, clips right in, and went for a drive before I put the mirror and lower cover back on. I used a section of rough rode that I could always reproduce the rattle and to my hearts content...silence.

This is a pretty easy fix as the only wire you need to disconnect is the mirror and you don't need to remove the entire upper cover, just lower it enough to install the rubber feet. I'll report back if there is any regression, but I think I may have found this rattle. Fingers crossed.
Just tackled this today and wanted to say thank you! I did the same fix exactly as outlined and after an initial test drive, it seems to have eliminated the issue. I too had confirmed the same source of the vibration.

Upon disassembling the cover, I found it’s actually the piece of plastic that touches against the windshield. The plastic bumpers mean that once the upper trim is reinstalled, it exerts more pressure on that windshield-side piece of trim and holds it snug.

Thanks very much for the great guide.

PS. A tip for others: I had my full lineup of pry tools ready to go, but it turns out a couple of heavier guitar picks were the best for this job! Perfect for gently easing open a crack and then prying with my fingers. Give it a try :)
 
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Just tackled this today and wanted to say thank you! I did the same fix exactly as outlined and after an initial test drive, it seems to have eliminated the issue. I too had confirmed the same source of the vibration.

Upon disassembling the cover, I found it’s actually the piece of plastic that touches against the windshield. The plastic bumpers mean that once the upper trim is reinstalled, it exerts more pressure on that windshield-side piece of trim and holds it snug.

Thanks very much for the great guide.

PS. A tip for others: I had my full lineup of pry tools ready to go, but it turns out a couple of heavier guitar picks were the best for this job! Perfect for gently easing open a crack and then prying with my fingers. Give it a try :)
Did you also put a rubber feet? If so, what size? TIA