Rebuilding wrecked 2015 Tesla Model S

[rooter]

Rest assured that supercharging will be disabled and there is nothing you can do about it. Oh you could remove the SIM card but then no nav or streaming.

The only option for you and others rebuilding a salvage is to root the CID. (nVidia processor board inside the MCU) You can use my articles over on DIYElectricCar, or reach out to a couple of good members here -- if they have time they will help. But expect to compensate them for their time. Others who can do it (Ingineer, wk057) won't respond to your unworthy inquiries.

If your CID has newer firmware it becomes more and more difficult to get root; maybe impossible except with my approach.

You are an outlaw and a renegade now, so forget about having the Tesla app, a Tesla account, or Tesla service. You must be self-sufficient, resilient, and clever to go this route. Shoe salesmen and Republicans need not apply.

 

[CrazyCarl]

Rest assured that supercharging will be disabled and there is nothing you can do about it. Oh you could remove the SIM card but then no nav or streaming.

The only option for you and others rebuilding a salvage is to root the CID. (nVidia processor board inside the MCU) You can use my articles over on DIYElectricCar, or reach out to a couple of good members here -- if they have time they will help. But expect to compensate them for their time. Others who can do it (Ingineer, wk057) won't respond to your unworthy inquiries.

If your CID has newer firmware it becomes more and more difficult to get root; maybe impossible except with my approach.

You are an outlaw and a renegade now, so forget about having the Tesla app, a Tesla account, or Tesla service. You must be self-sufficient, resilient, and clever to go this route. Shoe salesmen and Republicans need not apply.

Thank you for the info! I will look into your articles!

Haha well if I'm unworthy of a reply from others. Then if and when it gets disabled, I will be more then willing to pay you for some help, if your willing!

 

[Exiom]

Rest assured that supercharging will be disabled and there is nothing you can do about it. Oh you could remove the SIM card but then no nav or streaming.

The only option for you and others rebuilding a salvage is to root the CID. (nVidia processor board inside the MCU) You can use my articles over on DIYElectricCar, or reach out to a couple of good members here -- if they have time they will help. But expect to compensate them for their time. Others who can do it (Ingineer, wk057) won't respond to your unworthy inquiries.

If your CID has newer firmware it becomes more and more difficult to get root; maybe impossible except with my approach.

You are an outlaw and a renegade now, so forget about having the Tesla app, a Tesla account, or Tesla service. You must be self-sufficient, resilient, and clever to go this route. Shoe salesmen and Republicans need not apply.

Thanks! While I dont need this information yet but I have saved your 3 threads from the other forum just in case I will need it in the future and they disappear for whatever reason.

 

[AMPd]

Rest assured that supercharging will be disabled and there is nothing you can do about it. Oh you could remove the SIM card but then no nav or streaming.

The only option for you and others rebuilding a salvage is to root the CID. (nVidia processor board inside the MCU) You can use my articles over on DIYElectricCar, or reach out to a couple of good members here -- if they have time they will help. But expect to compensate them for their time. Others who can do it (Ingineer, wk057) won't respond to your unworthy inquiries.

If your CID has newer firmware it becomes more and more difficult to get root; maybe impossible except with my approach.

You are an outlaw and a renegade now, so forget about having the Tesla app, a Tesla account, or Tesla service. You must be self-sufficient, resilient, and clever to go this route. Shoe salesmen and Republicans need not apply.

The man scored 4 touchdowns in one game. Show some respect!

 

[Brass Guy]

I had not heard about a separate HV inspection, just the $1500 inspection that includes the HV inspection as well as a Tesla certified body shop disassembling the car and checking that the frame is within mms of factory spec. Passing this inspection gains the right to pay Tesla to work on your vehicle, and yes they disable DC charging. Of course the $1500 is pass or fail.
DC charging is still just a software switch, and the talented people here can turn it back on; if they are able to infiltrate your system.

 

[Brass Guy]

How do you avoid idling fees

According to policy, idle fees are applied if your car is plugged into a supercharger 5 minutes after charging stops; that has at least half its stalls occupied.
There have been reports of idle fees being applied when at no time the stalls were half full. This may be true, and Tesla may be better at determining stall occupation now, but take no chances if the car is not officially attached to your account.

 

[timk225]

OP, if I were you, I'd look into some computer cut and paste / photoshop trickery to "adjust" the title image that is sent in. You don't have to answer the question that Tesla doesn't ask!

And what is this BS of paying $500-$1500 for an HV inspection, you pass, then Tesla still turns off supercharging? Who does Tesla think they are, Apple?

In the same way that Apple loves to restrict support for their products, build them as cheaply as possible and then charge a fortune for them, I am seeing the same thing at Tesla. I've only ever owned one Apple product, an iPhone 4, but out of principle I'll never buy an Apple item again.

 

[MP3Mike]

I had not heard about a separate HV inspection, just the $1500 inspection that includes the HV inspection as well as a Tesla certified body shop disassembling the car and checking that the frame is within mms of factory spec. Passing this inspection gains the right to pay Tesla to work on your vehicle, and yes they disable DC charging. Of course the $1500 is pass or fail.
DC charging is still just a software switch, and the talented people here can turn it back on; if they are able to infiltrate your system.

Tesla discontinued the $1,500 re-certification process last year. Now they will work on the non-HV portion of any car without any inspections/recertifications. But to work on the HV system of a salvage car you have to pass the HV inspection first. (Which is done by Tesla.)

 

[rooter]

Thank you for the info! I will look into your articles!

Haha well if I'm unworthy of a reply from others. Then if and when it gets disabled, I will be more then willing to pay you for some help, if your willing!

We are unworthy only of the two named.

Two others sincerely help in the interests of the community, as they are able. You'll find them.

I just don't have the time. Anyway, my car is AP1 and I'm out-of-date on the newer ones. I've been hoping that someone would post info on newer cars. Anyway I'm getting knocked by Mods now. I'll quit contributing.

View attachment 395225

The man scored 4 touchdowns in one game. Show some respect!

{hehe} Oh Great Bundy you have made your life's accomplishments. No need to try anymore.

 

[CrazyCarl]

it may depend on what firmware is installed; so I'd be cautious.

If your CID has newer firmware it becomes more and more difficult to get root; maybe impossible except with my approach.

It has firmware v9.0 on it, OTA update is available but I'm not planning on installing it.

I found out the center radiator is damaged and drained. So now I'm just waiting on all the parts.
Does anyone have experience bleeding the Tesla coolant system? Anything I should do in Particular?

 

[CrazyCarl]

According to policy, idle fees are applied if your car is plugged into a supercharger 5 minutes after charging stops; that has at least half its stalls occupied.
There have been reports of idle fees being applied when at no time the stalls were half full. This may be true, and Tesla may be better at determining stall occupation now, but take no chances if the car is not officially attached to your account.

Thank you for the info Brass!

OP, if I were you, I'd look into some computer cut and paste / photoshop trickery to "adjust" the title image that is sent in. You don't have to answer the question that Tesla doesn't ask!

Haha I was actually thinking about this before I posted this thread, but after hearing from all you guys I think I'm just going to not make a tesla account ect. I have the key, so probably better safe then sorry.

I just don't have the time. Anyway, my car is AP1 and I'm out-of-date on the newer ones. I've been hoping that someone would post info on newer cars. Anyway I'm getting knocked by Mods now. I'll quit contributing.

Okay well thank you very much for your input this far!

 

[CrazyCarl]

Hello all! I kinda let this post, and the project fall to the back burner over the year due to fire season, and just my busy season in general.

But I'm back and excited to finish this out!

Let me update you on what I've done:
Bought new body panels from Ebay, a hail damaged hood.
Also a pretty good fender with some minor dents,(both of which I have had to spend countless hours glazing, and sanding ready for the paint)

I removed almost every piece of main trim in the vehicle to gain access to components such as:

SRS Module, (I sent it off to a company called "safety restore" and they re-flashed it)

Both driver and passenger seatbelt re-tractors, and lap pretensioners (both are now replaced)


Also every airbag that deployed in the crash:
Driver side wheel, knee, and curtain airbags
Passenger side Dash, knee, and curtain airbags!
(I have installed all except, the passenger curtain and Driver wheel airbags. Because I'm waiting for them to be delivered) I unfortunately purchased the wrong wheel airbag, and went to install but it didn't have the connector for the heated steering required for this car I will look closer next time haha!

And of course I can't forget all the exterior work required to be done the car that has added to my joy, such as:

Main Radiator support/front reinforcement: The main plastic part that supports both wing/center Radiators and such. (At the time I could only find one from a 2016 Model S. And was worried it wouldn't fit my 2015, but everything seems to line up just fine)


Replacing center radiator: This was a pretty big worry for me, as I was afraid I would not be able to bleed the system properly. But I managed to do it fine with alot of time and using extra hoses, and air pressure to push coolant. I used the special blue coolant (also used in BMW's I think) and I can get a picture of that if anyone needs it.

Re-bending/straightening under fender Apron that was curled back in the wreck: This was the only non-bolt on part of the car that was damaged, I would have bought a whole new apron and welded it on the car, like we did on my last salvage sports car I bought. But it was not damaged in any structural way. So with the right about of heat and a bit of time I was able to get it aligned all back up with the fender/front radiator reinforcement for mounting.

Replacing 12v Battery: From everything I read, I assumed it was not good to keep the car plugged in all summer when I wasn't here to work on it, or leave it to vampire drain. So I unplugged High Voltage and just put a charger on the 12v battery. And I think this might have been a mistake as other people unplugged the charger several times, and in turn the voltage dropped way too low and ended up losing capacity. Thus requiring me to buy another battery, but I have not installed it yet.


And then just trying to parts source every single other little part/connector that was obliterated beyond recognition during the crash
For anyone who is interested, I almost exclusively got every part from Ebay. I didn't want to but it seemed like there wasn't much of an option.
I contacted Rich Rebuild's "Electric Garage" by email through his website, and got a reply to send over my needed parts list. I did, but never received a reply. I'm sure he is pretty busy, or just didn't have the parts I required.

Where am I at?
Well I'm still very lost haha!
I have many questions for anyone that can help me!

#1: SRS Module/Airbags: As soon as my last airbags come in the mail how should I go about plugging in the SRS module/AirBags. To try and ensure the light goes out? I have not plugged the module or any of the new AirBags in.

I assumed I would wait until I go to replace the 12V battery. And then undo full power, then plug in all airbags, the SRS Module, and then the new 12V? Would this be the right procedure to try and get an airbag light out? Any help would be much appreciated!

#2: Auto Pilot: The bumper was really scuffed up in the crash, but I've been sanding it and getting ready for primer/paint. But it appears at least one of the Parking position Sensors was damaged on impact. So I have ordered and few of those and am going to replace that one, and have a few extra incase something comes up! And hopefully when I plug them in, and the whole bumper back into the car I'll get rid of some of the Errors?

Current Errors on the car. Note: 12V Battery is just on a charger, Hight Voltage is Unplugged, Bumper/sensors Unplugged, and Airbags and SRS module

Will most of these self clear, when I replace the Battery and plug everything back in?

Any help is much appreciated!! Thank you guy's so much this far!

 

[EZBoy]

Wow, you are going through pretty much the same thing I am except mine is 2015 90d , but the damage is very comparable. I too had to replace fender apron and reflashed srs module at safetyrestore. My car is at the show right now passing structural inspection, waiting anxiously to see if it passes or fails...

regarding airbags - according to tesla the install procedure is : disconnect fireman’s cut loop, install airbags, reconnect the loop. If your module is reset and all airbag connections are good, the warning will disappear next time you turn on the car ( press break pedal or put it in gear so it actually turns on) it did it for me !

good luck and keep us posted

 

[CrazyCarl]

Wow they are very similar in damage! And even the same side for the damaged fenders!

That's awesome yours is a 90D! I wish I had the extra capacity!

Did you have any of those error codes at anytime throughout your process? Also do you think the system self clearing for the most part?

And thank you so much for the information on the airbag procedure! That helps me a ton, and your project actually gives me hope I can see the light at the end of the tunnel haha!

Wow, you are going through pretty much the same thing I am except mine is 2015 90d , but the damage is very comparable. I too had to replace fender apron and reflashed srs module at safetyrestore. My car is at the show right now passing structural inspection, waiting anxiously to see if it passes or fails...

regarding airbags - according to tesla the install procedure is : disconnect fireman’s cut loop, install airbags, reconnect the loop. If your module is reset and all airbag connections are good, the warning will disappear next time you turn on the car ( press break pedal or put it in gear so it actually turns on) it did it for me !

good luck and keep us posted

 

[EZBoy]

I had a bunch of error codes as well, but apart from 12 v battery and car needs service the other codes were different. Just to understand clearly - is your cut loop disconnected now and did you replace the pyrofuse?

 

[EZBoy]

I would also suggest replacing fender apron, you might not pass structural inspection if you just bent it out( I assume your car has salvage title? ) you can see in the pics how I did it. Still don’t know if it will pass, need to wait couple of days.

 

[CrazyCarl]

Yes the cut loop is disconnected. and I've been waiting to change my 12v battery, until I'm ready to have it out of the hanger, so it can maintain it's own charge of the battery when the High voltage is connected!

No I actually didn't. I read some about the pyrofuse, and I thought I understood that it only needed changed if the car could not close Contactors and drive? Am I wrong on that?
I can press my brake and hear a bunch of clicking, and I can even put it into drive/reverse and drive. But it says power reduced, and I assumed that was because of the airbag light and the bumper not being plugged in and such!

I had a bunch of error codes as well, but apart from 12 v battery and car needs service the other codes were different. Just to understand clearly - is your cut loop disconnected now and did you replace the pyrofuse?

 

[EZBoy]

hm, so you are saying your car can close contactors and drive now? This should not be possible as airbag deployment triggers pyrofuse and disconnectsHV battery from the car. I am not understanding something I guess

did you replace a small black box as on photo attached?

 

[EZBoy]

Sorry, didn’t read your previous post carefully enough - you can drive the car. In this case it looks like your pyrofuse didn’t blow. But the airbags did, and this does not make sense to me.

 

[CrazyCarl]

Yes and I even drove it about a mile and then back into the hanger, it just says power reduced and doesnt have alot of power!

And that's what I thought I read before! That I would have to change that in order for it to work! So my only guess could be if like if went to a shop for an insurance quote, and they maybe replaced it before insurance deemed it totaled? Or maybe something was faulty and didn't blow the fuse?

But yeah I've never replaced that or even messed with it!

hm, so you are saying your car can close contactors and drive now? This should not be possible as airbag deployment triggers pyrofuse and disconnectsHV battery from the car. I am not understanding something I guess

did you replace a small black box as on photo attached?