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Recommended Way to Wash MY?
- Thread starter Wrangler
- Start date
Laguna M3
Member
I use a pressure washer and foam cannon with a microfiber wash mitt and then dry using the Gyeon silk drying towel. I also use a blower to get the water out of the nooks and crannies. There is a ton of water that gets into the cracks in the doors, the lift gate and especially the frunk and the blower really helps with those areas.
Bobbo8
Member
In the winter I use NO RINCE car wash. I can wash my Y without the need for a hose and can do it in my garage.
I am not a fan of "waterless" car wash methods. Why? The most critical part of any car wash is a complete water spray down, moderate pressure, to remove surface grit/dust. Unless you remove this first, you're creating sandpaper with your first wipe, regardless of the liquid of the "waterless" product.
All mechanical car washes have a risk: embedded grit in the cloth, harsh brushes (also with embedded grit), recycled water that's not filtered and has high salt (snow belt carwashes).
Chicago? Gotta be above 36-38f to hand water wash, below that, you'll just cover the car in a sheet of ice (been there, done that!).
(Click and Clack said, years ago, that the number one WORST decision, for the consumer, was when the auto industry decided to paint cars. They should have let them naturally oxidize! (early on, sheet metal was so thick, it took YEARS to rust through!) We spend gazillions of dollars on paint products, then gazillions more on maintenance of an outdoor painted surface that we expect to last for decades.!!!)
(all that said, I spray, then do the 2 bucket wash, carefully...on any painted surface.)
All mechanical car washes have a risk: embedded grit in the cloth, harsh brushes (also with embedded grit), recycled water that's not filtered and has high salt (snow belt carwashes).
Chicago? Gotta be above 36-38f to hand water wash, below that, you'll just cover the car in a sheet of ice (been there, done that!).
(Click and Clack said, years ago, that the number one WORST decision, for the consumer, was when the auto industry decided to paint cars. They should have let them naturally oxidize! (early on, sheet metal was so thick, it took YEARS to rust through!) We spend gazillions of dollars on paint products, then gazillions more on maintenance of an outdoor painted surface that we expect to last for decades.!!!)
(all that said, I spray, then do the 2 bucket wash, carefully...on any painted surface.)
Clark_Kent
Member
I use a pressure washer with foam lance and two bucket method. I never run my cars through a car wash, touchless or otherwise. Method is part of the equation but the appropriate products are also essential.
I'm also vehemently opposed to waterless or rinseless car washes. You absolutely will mar the paint using these products. I don't care what they tell you or what method you use.
I'm also vehemently opposed to waterless or rinseless car washes. You absolutely will mar the paint using these products. I don't care what they tell you or what method you use.
Bobbo8
Member
You live in Ga., us folks up NORTH dont have the same temps and options as you. When its 32 or below and windy our choices are limited. I can do a No Rince in my garage and use 2 buckets.
I've lived most of my life in the DC region, not nearly as frigid as NY or upper midwest. When the temps were below freezing for days at a time, I would just leave the car alone and wait for a break in the temperature. With the proper paint treatment, I found this practice less damaging to the paint. Unless I could flush the car with a LOT of water prior to washing, I just wouldn't do it.
FYI, I kept my cars for 15+ years, the paint was never an issue.
YMMV.
FYI, I kept my cars for 15+ years, the paint was never an issue.
YMMV.
Don't over-think it. I don't buy that Tesla paint is any more fragile than other car paint. I generally wash my car by hand, but in the cold weather, I either do a no rinse wash in my garage for very light soiled surface, or just drive through a car wash. I have been using a good well run car wash for years without any damage to my paint. It's better to run your car that might have road salt/grime and bird poo through a good well run car wash than let it sit there on your paint an etch into the clear coat.
Maxpilot: Agreed.
All good posts. Having a "good well run car wash" is important. They're not all managed well.
I never had to live 24/7 for 5 months with layers of road salt/sand on my car, as the DC region had enough warm breaks to rinse, rinse, rinse.
As much as I dislike the heat here (DFW), I've been spoiled, not having to deal with the reality of salt/sand, etc. for 5 months every year.
All good posts. Having a "good well run car wash" is important. They're not all managed well.
I never had to live 24/7 for 5 months with layers of road salt/sand on my car, as the DC region had enough warm breaks to rinse, rinse, rinse.
As much as I dislike the heat here (DFW), I've been spoiled, not having to deal with the reality of salt/sand, etc. for 5 months every year.
From cold Michigan- was hand-washing (summer) but did go to a touchless manual car wash a couple of days ago to get the salt and grime off. Not a totally great experience- later found lots of soap in the frunk. But regardless, I didn't think the "avoid automatic carwashes" thing was about the paint- I thought it was about not scratching the cameras...... cant figure out where I read that now though.
you can use those dish washing gloves when you wash it when it's cold out. I have done No Rinse washes but prefer the proper car wash!
Touchless car washes substitiute very high pressure in lieu of swirling brushes. As such, that pressure tends to remove any coats of wax or sealant that you may have spent hours applying.
Automatic car washes use the same dirty brushes on every vehicle thats been through there. High chance of getting micro swirls/micro scratches in the clearcoat which show up as spider web looking marks under bright sun. Not so visible on light/white cars but on dark colors? ooo boy.
I use a foam cannon type of device on my regular hose. That with a good soap product (Meguiars Gold works so well for me, and is very slippery, good consistency foam) gets plenty of foam for me. No need for a pressure washer. I have a micro fiber mit and I dont use a bucket at all. I foam the car down, foam the mitt, and then keep spraying the car panel by panel as I wipe LIGHTLY until I finish the car. I then rinse thoroughly and dry 90% of the water with my leaf blower. This method keeps my wax/sealant intact for many weeks( I can tell by the tight water beads on the car after a rain).
Remember, MOST micro scratches/clearcoat swirls occur during drying as there is minimal lubricity between drying cloth/towel and the car at that point.
Automatic car washes use the same dirty brushes on every vehicle thats been through there. High chance of getting micro swirls/micro scratches in the clearcoat which show up as spider web looking marks under bright sun. Not so visible on light/white cars but on dark colors? ooo boy.
I use a foam cannon type of device on my regular hose. That with a good soap product (Meguiars Gold works so well for me, and is very slippery, good consistency foam) gets plenty of foam for me. No need for a pressure washer. I have a micro fiber mit and I dont use a bucket at all. I foam the car down, foam the mitt, and then keep spraying the car panel by panel as I wipe LIGHTLY until I finish the car. I then rinse thoroughly and dry 90% of the water with my leaf blower. This method keeps my wax/sealant intact for many weeks( I can tell by the tight water beads on the car after a rain).
Remember, MOST micro scratches/clearcoat swirls occur during drying as there is minimal lubricity between drying cloth/towel and the car at that point.
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Good civil discussion of the merits of different methods, especially for those with ambient temperature issues.
2010Guy: I question your logic about touchless car washes. I can't wrap my head around the high pressure removing wax/sealant. I have no proof, as I'm not a chemical engineer, but I just can't agree.
The biggest problem with any system is removing grit without holding it in the cleaning cloth/sponge. Grit on any cloth/brush/chamois, at any time in the process, is deadly to the paint.
2010Guy: I question your logic about touchless car washes. I can't wrap my head around the high pressure removing wax/sealant. I have no proof, as I'm not a chemical engineer, but I just can't agree.
The biggest problem with any system is removing grit without holding it in the cleaning cloth/sponge. Grit on any cloth/brush/chamois, at any time in the process, is deadly to the paint.
Clark_Kent
Member
+1 on the drying method. I have my trusty EGO Power leaf blower for drying duty. It gets the car about 85% dry and then I use a few high quality dual pile microfiber cloths to completely dry the car.
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