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Reducing noise and keeping the door sills clean
- Thread starter bradhs
- Start date
Thanks, it looks good. I can't tell if it can calculate on average over a period of time. Do you know if it has that capability. I plan to measure an average dB over a section of highway. I figure this will be the most accurate way to measure changes in different mods I make to the car.
Check out this image. There's another issue that needs resolving to reduce noise. Where the two doors come together at the very top, the insulation does not seal well so you've only got one seal in that area. I'm thinking of finding a solution for that area.
Don’t underestimate how difficult this is to measure. You don’t know what peaks are highest and they might not be the ones that are most annoying (or the ones you actually hear). Averages can remove what’s most obnoxious.
Best thing I do is record it ( carefully ) then you can A/B the two recordings. You can also speak the location and speed.
I totally agree with this. My objective is to reduce the higher frequencies. Those are what bother me the most in the Model 3. I'm considering tinting my windows not to reduce heat or glare but an attempt to thicken the glass and reduce the higher frequency noises.
Another member PM'd me some great questions. Here are my answers:
Yes, just the outer edges, check out the latest post, I drew where to install.
I peeled and did about 6in at a time. I lined up the edge with the edge of the door for the front door. For the rear door I had to push it in as much as possible so that the rubber does not show when the door is closed. The tape is pretty forgiving if you want to pull and re-stick it. Just do it within 10 minutes.
I had tried a different D style which was difficult to remove. It comes off, just a lot of rubbing. This stuff I havent tried removing, but it looks to be the same as the other stuff.
Yeah, It's simple. Theres a rubber cap when doing the vertical front section of the rear door. I cut a small slit into the Z TYPE rubber, tiny slit just so the existing Tesla rubber cap seal could sit over it. I think one of my pics shows it.
It does reduce noise and has the added benefit of reducing the dirt and grime in the door sills. Makes it for an easier car wash.
Yes, just the outer edges, check out the latest post, I drew where to install.
I peeled and did about 6in at a time. I lined up the edge with the edge of the door for the front door. For the rear door I had to push it in as much as possible so that the rubber does not show when the door is closed. The tape is pretty forgiving if you want to pull and re-stick it. Just do it within 10 minutes.
I had tried a different D style which was difficult to remove. It comes off, just a lot of rubbing. This stuff I havent tried removing, but it looks to be the same as the other stuff.
Yeah, It's simple. Theres a rubber cap when doing the vertical front section of the rear door. I cut a small slit into the Z TYPE rubber, tiny slit just so the existing Tesla rubber cap seal could sit over it. I think one of my pics shows it.
It does reduce noise and has the added benefit of reducing the dirt and grime in the door sills. Makes it for an easier car wash.
That’s why I bought the Tesla Front and Rear SunScreens. I think they help absorb high frequencies and reduce reflections towards your head. The front screen helped a lot. Rear one I’m not sure.
Thanks! This is perfect. I’ll try it and see if this makes any difference. I have used Noico in the frunk tub, frunk hood, front doors, trunk lid, trunk deck, and trunk bottom. Car is a little better but still way too loud.
Which floor mats did you get? Do they make a difference in the noise?
I was considering getting Luxe mats.
This looks interesting. I'm not sure how difficult to pull up the floors to install this but the materials looks promising. VibroBarrier (no glue)
@bradhs could you post a couple of profile pics with the doors closed? Curious how much this affects aesthetics.
Regarding damping, do some research as there are literally dozens of manufacturers of damping panels. CLD tiles have consistently been rated #1 for vibration damping followed by KnuKonceptz. Both are a bit more pricey but only require ~25% coverage unlike other brands. Also, be sure to get butyl damping material as it stands up to heat and is nearly odorless.
(not affiliated with these products in any way)
CLD tiles
DIYMA Deadener testing (long but extremely detailed comparisons)
Regarding damping, do some research as there are literally dozens of manufacturers of damping panels. CLD tiles have consistently been rated #1 for vibration damping followed by KnuKonceptz. Both are a bit more pricey but only require ~25% coverage unlike other brands. Also, be sure to get butyl damping material as it stands up to heat and is nearly odorless.
(not affiliated with these products in any way)
CLD tiles
DIYMA Deadener testing (long but extremely detailed comparisons)
Interesting articles. I'm willing to try anything but need instructions on how to properly tear apart the car to install this kind of stuff. Also, I'm not sure how much of the noise is from a) vibration, b) seals, c) windows/glass. I assume we can only control a & b. And possibly c by tinting the glass and using other thick materials like breakage protection tints.
Regarding pics of the car with the door closed, good idea, I'll take some tomorrow. Basically there is no differnce, unless you look down the seams where the door meets the frame, you will see the insulation. Beyond that the door closes exactly how it would close without them. (Assuming you installed it correctly.)
Regarding pics of the car with the door closed, good idea, I'll take some tomorrow. Basically there is no differnce, unless you look down the seams where the door meets the frame, you will see the insulation. Beyond that the door closes exactly how it would close without them. (Assuming you installed it correctly.)
Also this is a good pic of just how much compression is occurring on the front doors: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/media/9567d1ed-7901-4203-878b-9e4618b0aa5b.119286/full
The back door though do compress more on the vertical sections. But its worth it in my opinion to keep the noise down and dirt out.
We are getting rain on Thursday, I'll know more about how successful this is at keeping the water out.
The back door though do compress more on the vertical sections. But its worth it in my opinion to keep the noise down and dirt out.
We are getting rain on Thursday, I'll know more about how successful this is at keeping the water out.
I think any mat helps. I bought the tuxmat 3 piece trunk/Frunk set and Maxpider for cabin. Between the 5 mats, stuffed blanks in Frunk, rpm gasket, sun screens, I’m pretty happy now. X-Ice tires are a tad quieter too so need to re-evaluate in the spring with all seasons back on.
I’ll keep watching this thread with interest though. Personally I’d consider doing all but the bottom one to avoid any possibility of trapping water and freezing. Not that there is any proof of a problem. Just having water travel a longer gentler path can be a problem in cold climates.
Reviews on the materials are not the best either.