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Reducing noise and keeping the door sills clean

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#61
mswlogo said:
That’s exactly why I bought the Tuxmats for the trunk and Frunk. And I left the cheapy carpets in their too. Tuxmat includes a lower well mat as well. Combination of mats and sunshades I think takes the edge off of road noise.

I’ve tried to avoid doing any mod that could possibly do harm or cause a warranty issue. But certainly keeping eyes and ears open to this minimal risk (but not zero IMHO) mod.

There is no question some noise enters through that rear deck vent.
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It looks like newer builds are using some sort of fabric to still allow minor airflow but possibly reduce the noise. There is a thread about this: Rear deck cutout

I may try to replicate this and remove the noico so that at least some airflow is allowed. I was just using a pillow before the noico which is similar to the fabric.
 
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#62
I used 3M Thinsulate on half of the rear deck opening and Mass Loaded Vinyl on the other half and it seemed to help. (seemed, because I did a lot of other upgrades at the same time: CLD (Noico) in doors, under parcel shelf and floors, and MLV/CCF in doors and floors.)

Another noticeable impact was buying the Tesla front sunshade from their online store and putting thinsulate between it and the top glass.

Very happy with the results
 
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#63
Dayreg said:
I used 3M Thinsulate on half of the rear deck opening and Mass Loaded Vinyl on the other half and it seemed to help. (seemed, because I did a lot of other upgrades at the same time: CLD (Noico) in doors, under parcel shelf and floors, and MLV/CCF in doors and floors.)

Another noticeable impact was buying the Tesla front sunshade from their online store and putting thinsulate between it and the top glass.

Very happy with the results
Click to expand...

Hmm, tell me more about the thinsulate? Did you attach it to the sunshield or the glass itself? Where do you buy the material? Thanks
 
#64
Bought on ebay. I cut it to fit the size of the Tesla sunscreen and the sunscreen holds it up there with the clips it comes with. No tape or velcro necessary.

sunscreen.jpg
 
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#66
Dayreg said:
I used 3M Thinsulate on half of the rear deck opening and Mass Loaded Vinyl on the other half and it seemed to help. (seemed, because I did a lot of other upgrades at the same time: CLD (Noico) in doors, under parcel shelf and floors, and MLV/CCF in doors and floors.)

Another noticeable impact was buying the Tesla front sunshade from their online store and putting thinsulate between it and the top glass.

Very happy with the results
Click to expand...

When I ordered my Sunshades I was thinking I might have to do something like you did if it didn’t improve things as is. Turns I think it helped within going this far. The thinsulate is a good idea.

Does the thinsulate breath? Why not all thinsulate on the rear deck?
 
#68
So looking around my door jambs I noticed this unplugged hole on the driver's door jamb just below the hinge. You can see straight through the wheel well and to the ground. Anyone else have this? The passenger side has a rubber plug in this hole. Stuff like this can certainly add to noise I would think. Going to cover it with some stick on foam.
7ph5fuh7QW2Yq5IUTG34HA.jpg
 
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#69
On the quest for noise reduction I noticed the substantial foam material underneath the trunk carpet of a Model X. It looks like seat foam and is perhaps an inch or so thick and appears to be thermomolded to the shape of the trunk.

I know that the 3 is built to a price point, but a few bucks of foam padding might have been money well spent for Tesla. Or perhaps Tesla tested it and it didn't make a difference, I don't know. But I think those that are using Dynamat type material might be wasting their money and adding some unnecessary weight when foam may work best.
 
#71
Dayreg said:
I used 3M Thinsulate on half of the rear deck opening and Mass Loaded Vinyl on the other half and it seemed to help. (seemed, because I did a lot of other upgrades at the same time: CLD (Noico) in doors, under parcel shelf and floors, and MLV/CCF in doors and floors.)

Another noticeable impact was buying the Tesla front sunshade from their online store and putting thinsulate between it and the top glass.

Very happy with the results
Click to expand...

Did you consider using Thinsulate for the doors vs. the MLV/CCF? I've done the MLV/CCF and CLD tiles in the trunk area of my S, but am considering doing Thinsulate on the doors. The specs seem good and I see more and more of it being used by the OEMs (interestingly enough I see them putting a piece here and a piece there in cars vs. the "big sheet" you see with MLV). I think MLV is more of a blocker, whereas the Thinsulate acts as an absorber so perhaps the 100% coverage isn't as critical...it is certainly lighter than MLV and easier to stuff into places! I recently had my sons Mazda CX-5 dash and console partially apart and saw what looked like Thinsulate type of material in "packets" (like little pillows) stuck here and there.
 
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#72
I put both in the back doors and rear shelf inside the trunk, and then took a break.

I'm planning to put thinsulate in the front doors later. Note that getting those door panels pack on take some patience. I had to go back and trim the MLV in a few areas in the rear doors since the MLV/CCF/Thinsulate combo was too thick. It's definitely a two person job. That said, I wish I had done a comparison of just MLV/CCF versus Thinsulate.
 
#73
Dayreg said:
I put both in the back doors and rear shelf inside the trunk, and then took a break.

I'm planning to put thinsulate in the front doors later. Note that getting those door panels pack on take some patience. I had to go back and trim the MLV in a few areas in the rear doors since the MLV/CCF/Thinsulate combo was too thick. It's definitely a two person job. That said, I wish I had done a comparison of just MLV/CCF versus Thinsulate.
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I was just wondering if a cheesy test of the two would be to just put your phone in front of a noise source and record it...then encase it in mlv and record it...and then do the same with thinsulate. I struggle to think the thinsulate would outdo mlv since the latter is so thick and solid, but who knows? Heck, cover you ear with two pieces while listening to a recording of road noise and see if one blocks better than the other!
 
#76
If I didn't feel the need to drive around with my rear seats down due to car break in risk here, I'm sure my car would be somewhat quieter on the highway. I leave the seats down unless I would need them up for passengers so I don't forget to drop them when parked. Interesting to see the lengths you guys are going to to lessen road noise.
 
#77
I did a test with a sound meter with seats up and seats down and didn't find a measurable difference in sound. I was surprised. Granted I did have a moving blanket and my bike in the back. The Maxpider 3D trunk mat didn't make a difference either.
 
#78
MAXpider mats middle layer are sound deadening, however if your vehicle has great sound deadening though the floor pan already you won't see a larger difference. I'm surprised the trunk mat didn't make a difference, did you try them on a rough road too?

Shameless plug- you can buy the mats at joecarstuff.com and use coupon code TMC at checkout for the lowest price on 3D mats anywhere!
 
#79
Joe Car Stuff said:
MAXpider mats middle layer are sound deadening, however if your vehicle has great sound deadening though the floor pan already you won't see a larger difference. I'm surprised the trunk mat didn't make a difference, did you try them on a rough road too?

Shameless plug- you can buy the mats at joecarstuff.com and use coupon code TMC at checkout for the lowest price on 3D mats anywhere!
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Joe, I need to do more testing to validate. Sound is tricky to measure accurately. I have a 2 mile stretch of concrete highway that I use for testing, so it is quite a bit louder than smooth asphalt. I agree with you that it should help since it is tight fitting and has a layer of foam in it. Much simpler than lining the trunk with dynamat or the like.

edit: By the way, I love the mat. It was good timing too as we had a big rain the day after I got the mat and even though some rain drained off the window into the trunk when I opened it, I didn't sweat it because the mat contained it.
 
#80
Magnets! said:
Hey Brad, how are the door seals after living with them for a few weeks? Any water issues after the rains? How about creaking or squeaking? I bought the seals and am going to give it a shot.

Someone else (M3 2018?) was going to take some sound measurements before and after....wondering if that person has done that yet?
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My Model 3 is currently in the shop right now. Fit & finish items going on 11 months, but that's another story.

I did not want to modify my Model 3 without giving Tesla another chance to address roadnoise and ride comfort feedback from many customers including myself. They will not perform any mods to the car (no seals, sound dampening); no surprise there.

What sorta surprises me is the lack of a comfort turned suspension options for customers that don't void Tesla warranties. Also, not offering to do anything about obvious HW roadnoise issues. This car is too loud at 70 mph on the freeway with the tires on an uneven pavement. I think the Model 3 has to be in the top 5 loudest $55-60k car you can buy on the highway; sounds almost like a honda civic on the freeway to me.

Granted with all that being said, this car is still the best product I have ever owned. We are all just trying to make Tesla and the Model 3 even better.

When I get the car back next week, I'll re-look at 1) Roof RPM seal 2) Door seals and then 3) Nicoing the front doors. I think I'll test dbs on i90 using my phone before and after each of the 3 items.

Before I start #2, ideally someone whos tried the seals could tell us it's worth doing NO questions asked. Can anyone say that?
 
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