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Psht! That's a good think. You don't wanna drive 5 feet on stock crapsension.Order placed . Too bad I’ll probably receive this kit prior to delivery of the vehicle.
You can keep them for less NVH.Anybody know why Ohlins recommends that the Model Y retain the Rear Top Spring Isolator, but recommends removing it on the 3? I'm tempted to keep it and adjust my rear ride height to compensate for the added height. Thoughts?
I'm curious why Ohlins would recommend keeping them in the Y, but not in the 3? Possibly better performance without them, but increased NVH? Why not make it an option for both or explain the +/- of using/not using them?You can keep them for less NVH.
More ride height is likely the case. Instead of longer springs, retaining the isolator adds 1/2 to 3/4 of ride height without having to add additional preloads to the springs.I'm curious why Ohlins would recommend keeping them in the Y, but not in the 3? Possibly better performance without them, but increased NVH? Why not make it an option for both or explain the +/- of using/not using them?
Both @stevehifi and I decided to keep the top rubber isolators, it does not add 1/2 to 3/4 of ride height, it only adds 5mm or so. I kept the rubber isolators out right during install while @stevehifi removed them but put them back because there’s a slight noise going over bumps without them. Frankly I couldn’t figure why ohlins recommends to not use them for model 3.More ride height is likely the case. Instead of longer springs, retaining the isolator adds 1/2 to 3/4 of ride height without having to add additional preloads to the springs.
Same. It doesn't make any sense to me to leave them out, unless you are going for the greatest amount of drop possible. I'd say it adds 1/4" tops.Both @stevehifi and I decided to keep the top rubber isolators, it does not add 1/2 to 3/4 of ride height, it only adds 5mm or so. I kept the rubber isolators out right during install while @stevehifi removed them but put them back because there’s a slight noise going over bumps without them. Frankly I couldn’t figure why ohlins recommends to not use them for model 3.
Are you measuring the thickness of the isolators of the actual ride height of the vehicle?Both @stevehifi and I decided to keep the top rubber isolators, it does not add 1/2 to 3/4 of ride height, it only adds 5mm or so. I kept the rubber isolators out right during install while @stevehifi removed them but put them back because there’s a slight noise going over bumps without them. Frankly I couldn’t figure why ohlins recommends to not use them for model 3.
@stevehifi might do a better job at explaining this. I only estimated the thickness because when it’s on the car it’s sandwiched between the spring and subframe of the car, only showing a thin rubber lip, which is roughly 5mm thick.Are you measuring the thickness of the isolators of the actual ride height of the vehicle?
From the motion ration of the suspension that 5mm at the spring perch will translate to a different height at the wheel. Just did exactly that on a vehicle and got 1/2 to 3/4" of height increase. Car is still on the lift. Standby for a photo....@stevehifi might do a better job at explaining this. I only estimated the thickness because when it’s on the car it’s sandwiched between the spring and subframe of the car, only showing a thin rubber lip, which is roughly 5mm thick.
Very cool... are those Ground Control bottom perches with the adjustment bolt?View attachment 853237
Articulating weight jacks previously installed to eliminate bending moments that can distort the spring.
Yes, those are the ground control version(I don't think they designed it for the Tesla but just happen to work on it). Rogue Engineering also make one for a BMW E36/46 but could work on the Tesla as well(have to get a pair to confirm). Hyperco has hydraulic spring perch that looks promising(will try it out one day). GC and RE look identical and may have come from the same manufacturer but neither one would share that information.Very cool... are those Ground Control bottom perches with the adjustment bolt?
When I removed the rubber isolators, I saw maybe a 5mm drop at most. I didn't see any issues with the spring deforming using the rubber isolator. I did however hear some strange creaking noises in the rear when didn't use them and drove the car over steep entryways when the suspension compresses and unloads at extremes.
Note that most aftermarket kits (MPP, UPP and redwood) all re-use the top rubber isolator in their installs. If there were issues with spring alignment, we would have heard about it by now.
Also, if you note on the instructions, the Model Y preload is 5mm less than the Model 3 preload (20mm vs 25mm) since they use the isolator on the Y. So again... not much of a drop if you remove it.
Yes, I have been there and done that on other platforms. Perhaps I should try it out on the Tesla.@Motion122 Using rear helper springs should mostly avoid problems from spring alignment at droop/extension right? Obviously the differing angles would still occur, but the helper spring should keep everything seated properly, I would think.
Any guess why Tesla didn't make our rear suspension coilover too, like the front? Is it just for packaging reasons? Seems like a coilover arrangement is superior. No spring alignment issues, and allows for more compression travel than our short inboard springs. Rear compression travel feels lacking on this car, I assume due to shorter springs back there than the front coilovers.