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Refreshed “2021” Model 3 Performance Waiting Room

Phlier

Bluebird
Jun 12, 2019
1,283
1,587
Utah
No there is no adjustment period. The car does not care what wheels and tires you have installed. The range display next to the battery icon (not the energy screen) has nothing to do with past consumption.

The only adjustment that can occur is revisions of BMS estimates of available energy. This can change (slightly) if you charge to 100%, if it’s chilly, if you fully discharge and then recharge, if your battery degrades, etc.

But it has nothing to do with driving style or baseline consumption due to equipment changes. It’s not an estimate of distance - it is an estimate of ENERGY.

That’s the last I will say about this here, as it is rigorously covered in multiple sticky threads in the battery forum. I suggest for more details on this, that that be discussed there.

I just commented above to provide information to new owners and prospective owners on available capacity on the Performance, based on what we know. And the exact method to determine exactly how much energy your BMS thinks your battery has is linked to clearly just above, for anyone wondering (as mentioned, it is a procedure I would recommend to anyone picking up the car, to conduct before signing for the vehicle, if you know how to use the procedure and understand ALL the caveats). No reason to take the small risk of accepting a vehicle well outside the normal distribution. Just understand the caveats. Winter and cold makes it difficult to assess properly. For Californians it should be no issue though.
Pulled out the "Love" rating for that one, as there's just too much mystery in the whole Tesla battery thing. IMO, Tesla hasn't done a very good job of communicating exactly what the different numbers mean.

Fortunately, the members here on TMC have done a fantastic job of filling in the gaps; whether it's just a basic run through of what it all means, down to the real nitty gritty.

New owners would definitely be ahead of the game to spend from a few minutes to a few hours browsing through the stickied battery information threads. It would be highly unusual for anyone at this point to come up with a question that hasn't been answered at least once in those threads.
 

Phlier

Bluebird
Jun 12, 2019
1,283
1,587
Utah
Does anyone know if there is a huge difference between a model y performance and a model 3 performance in terms of speed and feel of the drive?

I test drove a model y performance and was not impressed and I didn’t feel that the extra money for performance was worth it, not even close. This is making me reconsider taking delivery of my performance 3 - instead might just use that extra 8k to get a model s or a LR model 3.
While I can't speak about the Model Y Performance, I can about the Model 3. I have the "Stealth" version of the Performance Model 3, and I have absolutely zero regrets. Even a year and a half down the road, I still get a big grin every time I smash the electron pedal from a complete stand still.

Zero to sixty in 3.5 seconds just never gets old. Yeah, I know Tesla says 3.1 seconds, but they're cheating with the way they achieve that number. It's more like 3.3 to 3.5.
 

dalton108

Member
Nov 26, 2020
71
49
USA
Does anyone know if there is a huge difference between a model y performance and a model 3 performance in terms of speed and feel of the drive?

I test drove a model y performance and was not impressed and I didn’t feel that the extra money for performance was worth it, not even close. This is making me reconsider taking delivery of my performance 3 - instead might just use that extra 8k to get a model s or a LR model 3.

We own on a model Y long range and my father bought a model Y performance. I have a 2021 model 3 performance.

Simply put, the car as is the case with most, handles much better than the SUV even the performance variant. It's not even close. The performance Y handles better than the long range Y, but in my opinion neither handles as well as our 2012 BMW X3 (That was a compact SUV that actually handled like a car. It was fantastic).

As far as speed, you can absolutely tell the difference between 0 to 60 in 3.1 versus 3.5. I just sold my C7 Corvette in anticipation of getting my C8. I sold it to my dad so now he has a performance Y and C7 Z51. He thinks that the performance why feels faster off the line, but I don't agree. My M3P does feel faster off the line to me but I've never done any actual tests. I do have a draggy now so maybe that's something I'll do (if my dad will let me borrow my car back).

I got my wife the speed boost for her model Y for Christmas and you can tell the difference between 4.8 and 4.2, as well. it's very noticeable.

So, here's what I would say: if you like speed and the handling of a car then you should get the M3P. If that's not important to you I would recommend that you skip the model Y performance and get the long range and add the speed boost for $2000. You will save money, have longer range, a smooth ride and the ability to lower it change springs etc. and you won't notice much difference between those two variants.
 
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eisenb11

Member
Dec 11, 2020
175
183
Redondo Beach, CA
Does anyone know if there is a huge difference between a model y performance and a model 3 performance in terms of speed and feel of the drive?

I test drove a model y performance and was not impressed and I didn’t feel that the extra money for performance was worth it, not even close. This is making me reconsider taking delivery of my performance 3 - instead might just use that extra 8k to get a model s or a LR model 3.

For me, the big difference between the non-performance and the performance was that the performance has "chill" and "sport mode" while the non-performance has "chill" and "normal". Sport mode was reason-alone for me to buy the performance.

I test drove a LR and really disliked the toned-down accelerator. This probably comes to driving style and preference but, for me, missing sport mode is a deal-breaker.
 

dalton108

Member
Nov 26, 2020
71
49
USA
For me, the big difference between the non-performance and the performance was that the performance has "chill" and "sport mode" while the non-performance has "chill" and "normal". Sport mode was reason-alone for me to buy the performance.

I test drove a LR and really disliked the toned-down accelerator. This probably comes to driving style and preference but, for me, missing sport mode is a deal-breaker.

Chill mode and performance mode is the difference between having faster acceleration. Once you purchase the $2000 speed boost on either the Y or the 3 the word "normal" is replaced with "sport."

It's branding, semantics and software.
 

AlanSubie4Life

Efficiency Obsessed Member
Oct 22, 2018
8,973
10,695
San Diego
Can now confirm nominal 82kWh battery. But still only showing 310 miles of topped of range. I'm sure software will deal with that.

Yep. 80.5kWh or so, so 82.1kWh nameplate capacity. Just a little patience, for the 315 rated miles and the charging rate at Superchargers. Note that if the update does not come in the next month or so, it is entirely possible your vehicle will never show 315 rated miles (due to normal capacity loss).
 

eisenb11

Member
Dec 11, 2020
175
183
Redondo Beach, CA
Chill mode and performance mode is the difference between having faster acceleration. Once you purchase the $2000 speed boost on either the Y or the 3 the word "normal" is replaced with "sport."

It's branding, semantics and software.

I wouldn't say it's semantics. It's the same with every car where "sport mode" is generally just a setting that makes the accelerator more aggressive. It's SW, not a HW thing. Prior to the latest SW update, the M3P that I test drove had Chill, Normal, and Sport modes... now they dropped Normal on the M3P. While it's just a SW change, I can say for a fact that Normal in the LR was a lot less aggressive than Sport in the M3P.

That said, I'm not surprised if buying the speed boost changes Normal to Sport (it's just SW to enable it anyway). But it's one of the 2 main reasons I bought a M3P over a LR. The other reason I went M3P was because it had a stiffer ride, which I prefer. I assume that this due to the suspension difference.

I do have one extra factor that affects my decisions - which is why, in my case, it's LR vs M3P and not LR+boost vs M3P. I'm leasing the car... so I have no interest in making after market mods (e.g. suspension) which I'll later have to remove or purchase upgrades (e.g. speed boost) which I'll take a 100% depreciation hit on when I return the car.
 
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AtlantaMCR

Member
Aug 12, 2017
79
94
Atlanta
Is anyone else finding the new P zero tires to be crap compared to the PS4S in the cold? 40* out and they seem to be very hard. Driving home at 85 the other day, tires were plenty warmed up as we were 30 miles into our 50 mile drive and they felt like they needed balanced. Tire pressure at 44 warm/hot. I had PS4S on my AWD3 with stock 18" wheels over last winter and never had this issue. Pondering selling these and going with PS4S.
 
Dec 2, 2020
122
40
Las Vegas, NV
Is anyone else finding the new P zero tires to be crap compared to the PS4S in the cold? 40* out and they seem to be very hard. Driving home at 85 the other day, tires were plenty warmed up as we were 30 miles into our 50 mile drive and they felt like they needed balanced. Tire pressure at 44 warm/hot. I had PS4S on my AWD3 with stock 18" wheels over last winter and never had this issue. Pondering selling these and going with PS4S.

You do realize that 40F is the lowest temp the Pirellis are supposed to see, right?

They will not heat up easily and be slippery at 40F

Much below that and they can crack
 

AtlantaMCR

Member
Aug 12, 2017
79
94
Atlanta
You do realize that 40F is the lowest temp the Pirellis are supposed to see, right?

They will not heat up easily and be slippery at 40F

Much below that and they can crack

Yes, I read that. Thanks Tesla for giving us a crappy tire when the PS4S were just fine.

I'm inquiring if anyone else is experiencing the same?
 

Gauss Guzzler

Member
Dec 27, 2020
66
123
Old California
Just curious of people who are still on here still waiting for a M3P order from 2020 with a ‘new delivery date’ of Feb to March 2021?
Yep. Ordered in November with a 5-7 week promise.
Got my VIN and paperwork right on time at the end of December.
Paid in full 2 days before delivery.
Hours before delivery the VIN just vanished from the website and now shows Feb-March.

I have never been able to contact anyone associated with Tesla thru any communications medium. Calls to any office in any city in California always go straight to a generic "voice mailbox is full" recording and emails to any local or regional center are simply purged by their servers. Even tried a fax, a singing telegram, and a homing pigeon but none were successful.

Elon, U up? Call me.
 

Jeffffffffff

Member
Nov 11, 2020
61
98
California
Yep. Ordered in November with a 5-7 week promise.
Got my VIN and paperwork right on time at the end of December.
Paid in full 2 days before delivery.
Hours before delivery the VIN just vanished from the website and now shows Feb-March.

I have never been able to contact anyone associated with Tesla thru any communications medium. Calls to any office in any city in California always go straight to a generic "voice mailbox is full" recording and emails to any local or regional center are simply purged by their servers. Even tried a fax, a singing telegram, and a homing pigeon but none were successful.

Elon, U up? Call me.

Did you ever get your money back?
 

Gauss Guzzler

Member
Dec 27, 2020
66
123
Old California
Did you ever get your money back?
What? No. I clicked on the link and $60,000 vanished from my bank account. That's all I know and I have no record of any of this happening nor any way to contact anyone associated with the Tesla organization.

The order status page says my balance due is $0 so presumably I'm still in the queue and good to go. Sucks that there's no way to contact them and also sucks that they took my money for so many months, but honestly I'm a more concerned that they surely have a pile of damaged cars that didn't make the December cut and if I raise too much of a stink they'll give me some rebuilt junk instead of an updated and more carefully built Feb model.
 

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