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UPDATE:
My car was already in service by the time I found this thread. After receiving the car back, I have confirmed my vibration is only during the 35-48 MPH range and will do it anytime even not under hard acceleration. I had only had about 100 miles on the car when I first posted and was not accurately understanding when the vibration was actually happening.
The service center initially acted like they never heard of this issue. They verified with me in the car test drive the car does have a vibration. They concluded this was "normal" based on another car in service having the same issue.
hahahaahaWelcome to Tesla service. We're not happy until you're not happy.
Did you do a lot of launches early on? I think I read somewhere that the drive shaft or the CV joint (I think) damages itself under that torque. Steel grades balance strength (resistance against breaking) and ductility at the expense of one another. Strengthen it too much and it becomes brittle. Don’t strengthen it and it twists (ductility) easier. Ductility can and will deform the shape of the shaft. Lack of strength will break it.Strange. Mine is 452 and I have it bad.
Interestingly I had an issue with my door handle freezing (not being able to open the door) if the door was partially closed. They gave me the same “it’s normal” answer because another car in service had the same issue.Yeah, thats their standard procedure. I was handled exactly the same way when I complained about my MS Plaid a few months ago. They must all be trained on this script.
Did you do a lot of launches early on? I think I read somewhere that the drive shaft or the CV joint (I think) damages itself under that torque. Steel grades balance strength (resistance against breaking) and ductility at the expense of one another. Strengthen it too much and it becomes brittle. Don’t strengthen it and it twists (ductility) easier. Ductility can and will deform the shape of the shaft. Lack of strength will break it.
I dont know what steel tesla uses for the drive shafts. My theory on this is that if this is indeed the cause for the vibration, then the steel grade used by tesla for those components under high torque aren’t matched properly in their strength vs ductility ratio - low on ductility, high on strength? Yes there is also the asymmetric placement and drive shaft angles that lay added stress. If the components were sourced from existing designs that did not take into account the driveshaft angle induced torque, then…
The physics of this (TWIP - Twinning induced plasticity) have been addressed in the early 2010s to balance drive shafts by twisting the surface, leave the core untwisted in drive shafts for high speed trains that handle a lot more torque.
I hope someone in Tesla’s drivetrain group knows about this
But it also can't be just caused by the half shafts, since ~50% of cars don't seem to have the vibration. Something unique in the manufacturing tolerances of the cars (motor mount positions, suspension position, etc) AND the half shafts. Otherwise, replacing the half shafts alone would give a 50% chance to eliminating the vibrations.I would suspect it's not a problem with the metal in the half shaft strength or being damaged. I had mine replaced and the vibration went away. I then drove the car carefully for a few days, without any hard launches, and the problem still came back in less than five days. Maybe tolerances in the CV joints being too lose and causing vibrations? Something like moving grease around in the joints.
Hmm yes that does cast doubt on my theory.I would suspect it's not a problem with the metal in the half shaft strength or being damaged. I had mine replaced and the vibration went away. I then drove the car carefully for a few days, without any hard launches, and the problem still came back in less than five days. Maybe tolerances in the CV joints being too lose and causing vibrations? Something like moving grease around in the joints.
You’re selling that which reduces the vibration?I took off my lowering links yesterday and the car vibrates a lot more with the stock "low" ride height. But, it is kind of a pain to switch back and forth. I might not put mine back on and sell them instead....
Maybe. If I have to take them off before every service, it might not be worth it. Also, I've been scraping the front bumper all the time with the car lowered.You’re selling that which reduces the vibration?
Hmm. That’s true. Have you spoken to your service center about accepting the lowering links? I mean unplugged sells a lot of suspension parts and Tesla service doesn’t nitpik over them!Maybe. If I have to take them off before every service, it might not be worth it. Also, I've been scraping the front bumper all the time with the car lowered.
Yeah, could be fine, but I wasn't going to risk it, especially since I'm bringing it in for a suspension creak. I think they'd be quick to blame the lowering links.Hmm. That’s true. Have you spoken to your service center about accepting the lowering links? I mean unplugged sells a lot of suspension parts and Tesla service doesn’t nitpik over them!
I really don’t think it’s correlated with damage due to load. Parts aren’t worn out. You can turn the vibration on/off with motor bias in track mode and it happens under no load conditions. I mean, not to me, I’m vibration free and driving it hard all the time albeit an inch lower than stock. I don’t vibrate on medium either.Questions...
Is anyone driving a refresh MS mainly in chill mode, like 99% of the time?
If so, are any still experiencing the drive shaft vibrations?
I’ve had to take my car in 3 times for other stuff and it’s been exhausting. It’s all fixed now but the effort of taking the car in multiple times, getting appointments pushed around willy-nilly , ubering around for days while it’s there is so disruptive.
I can’t imagine what you guys have to go through to have the same conversation with an uncooperative / clueless SC and have to come back again and again for the same issue.
An inch lower! Wow. I set mine to 5 mm and I think that lowered the car 0.75". It almost never vibrates with that drop, except if I go to medium.I really don’t think it’s correlated with damage due to load. Parts aren’t worn out. You can turn the vibration on/off with motor bias in track mode and it happens under no load conditions. I mean, not to me, I’m vibration free and driving it hard all the time albeit an inch lower than stock. I don’t vibrate on medium either.
6 and 7. I had them set to 5mm until recently.An inch lower! Wow. I set mine to 5 mm and I think that lowered the car 0.75". It almost never vibrates with that drop, except if I go to medium.
What did you set your links to?