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Refreshed Model S - rear seat rattle
- Thread starter ahyeps
- Start date
I would have tried a different service center, that front triangle window is known to have problems. I had the same issue on mine before but had to wait 3 months for parts. They managed to fix it but then they also managed to scratch up my passenger window. Two months later and still waiting on them to send me the check. I want to take them to small claim just on principle even thought it probably waste of time.
Anyways back on the original topic I've used some PPF on the latch and its been holding just fine for 3 months now.
I exhausted electrical tape and felt tape solutions, moving on to this foam block thing. Does anyone know what kind of foam block this is? I don’t even know what to ask for at Home Depot…
Would duct tape wrapped styrofoam blocks suffice? Would be fun if I get stopped over and cops think I’m dealing blocks of cocaine
Or does this work?
Would duct tape wrapped styrofoam blocks suffice? Would be fun if I get stopped over and cops think I’m dealing blocks of cocaine
Or does this work?
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That foam is not thick enough. Back on page 3 I posted pic of what finally worked for me. It needs to be dense but spongy and able to be compressed. Like the foam you might find around some types of stereo equipment when boxed. I’ll check depth of mine tomorrow but think it’s at least 1”.I exhausted electrical tape and felt tape solutions, moving on to this foam block thing. Does anyone know what kind of foam block this is? I don’t even know what to ask for at Home Depot…
Would duct tape wrapped styrofoam blocks suffice? Would be fun if I get stopped over and cops think I’m dealing blocks of cocaine
Or does this work?
View attachment 847777
Was thinking, assuming the foam is dense enough, I'd just stick 2-3 of them together to form a 1" block.
Assuming you aren't referring to the packaging styrofoam kind of things. I just have no idea where to find any acoustic foam.
vcor
Tech Specialist
I used some foam that came with some curtain assemblies. The foam for weatherproofing is way too soft and will do nothing to help. It needs to be stiff enough that you barely compress it with your hand. Size is not all that critical. I cut a part that was about 2" long, 1" deep and about 1.5" wide. The size may depend a bit on how firm the foam is. Styrofoam is unlikely to work as it compresses and would stay compressed. You need it to keep pressure on the latch/seat.
I think the foam is called high-density Polyurethane Foam, or sometimes also Charcoal foam (if dark grey color).
I think the foam is called high-density Polyurethane Foam, or sometimes also Charcoal foam (if dark grey color).
I used the weatherstripping foam that was nailed on the bottom of my old garage door, quite firm, stacked two together and cut wide enough that the u-bar holds it. Much less rattle now
The Tesla technician was servicing my refreshed 2021 model S and he used gaffers tape around the rings that hold the rear seats and it works beautifully to stop the creaking noises ...so it seems either electrical tape or gaffers tape will work. BTW gaffers tape is cloth based and electrical tape is vinyl based.
Thanks for this...I used this. It’s 1 1/8” thick and medium firm. Other than the color it works great
View attachment 848383
I first installed electrical tape but I could tell it would be chewed up as others have reported, so I removed it. Next, I installed similar white foam that's 1.5" thick. Will report back on the results.
Have been noticing some creaking sounds from the rear over bumps and decided to put down the rear seats for the first time on my 22. Sure enough, I see wearing thru the paint at least on the driver side U bar. So there's certainly some play there. Obviously with this degree of wear, tape isn't a viable long term solution.
I went to the service center recently for this issue and they adjusted the striker. The noise has been gone for the last 2 weeks, so hoping that this has solved my issue.
They replaced my seat back and it "fixed" the issue. I still have a rattle when I go over a big enough bump or depressed manhole. However, it does not sound like a rattle, it sounds more like a wire or something in the seat back that was not installed properly when they changed the seat backs. Debating what to do.
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I will try to sum up my best effort with Tesla about this.
Car has been to service six times for this. The finally seemed to resolve the passenger side by insulating the door panel and doing something to the lift gate. They are saying the rattle is coming from there and not from the seat back. I will say, the passenger side is gone. The drivers side is still there and I am trying to determine under what circumstances can I repeat replicate the issue to then have them fix it further.
However, in the process they managed to stain the hell out of my rear seat bench. So now I have a $2000 "estimated invoice" to get the entire bench replaced.
If it is not one thing with Tesla, it is another.
Car has been to service six times for this. The finally seemed to resolve the passenger side by insulating the door panel and doing something to the lift gate. They are saying the rattle is coming from there and not from the seat back. I will say, the passenger side is gone. The drivers side is still there and I am trying to determine under what circumstances can I repeat replicate the issue to then have them fix it further.
However, in the process they managed to stain the hell out of my rear seat bench. So now I have a $2000 "estimated invoice" to get the entire bench replaced.
If it is not one thing with Tesla, it is another.
I just got some gaffers tape to fix this. How many times do you guess you wrapped it around and does rear seats still close easily? Thanks!
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