Reliability concerns

[Bunnak]

Hi, I’m considering get a 2010-2011 Roadster Sport. I usually keep my cars for at least 10 years. If obtained it would be my daily driver (minimum of 50 miles per day). How realiable are the 2010-2011 Roadsters? I read mostly horror stories about battery life and PEM issues. Then there’s the question if Tesla will even carry roadster parts in several years.

 

[ViperDoc]

I have s 2011 2.5 sport as my daily driver. Over 70K. It has had 2 major faults. The first was a PEM at year 4 that was replaced. Then a battery issue came up when the battery cooling system leaked into the battery. The latter ended up needing 2 repairs, but the battery life itself has been quite good. Tesla predicted as much as a 30% loss of capacity at 7-10 years, but mine was running more like 10%. But other than that, it has been a wonderful car, even in the snow of Vermont.

 

[dhrivnak]

I have a 2008, 1.5 and I have no concerns with reliability as it has been very good to me for over 50,000 miles. Two issues in 8 years of ownership, one under warranty and Tesla has been fine with parts and the occasional issue.

 

[hcsharp]

Hi, I’m considering get a 2010-2011 Roadster Sport. I usually keep my cars for at least 10 years. If obtained it would be my daily driver (minimum of 50 miles per day). How realiable are the 2010-2011 Roadsters? I read mostly horror stories about battery life and PEM issues. Then there’s the question if Tesla will even carry roadster parts in several years.

My Roadster has been my daily driver for almost 8 years and 60k+ miles. Since the warranty expired I've had only one minor problem and parts were easy to get. YMMV but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again if I had the chance. I expect to get more than 10 years out of this car.

 

[ewoodrick]

Are you asking will a Tesla last 10 years? Or are you asking if a Roadster will last another 10 years?

Technologies in the Roadster have change dramatically in newer cars and aren't a good comparison.

A 20 year old car is an antique.

 

[DRM]

I've only had two significant issues with my #619 since I got it (original owner). One was the break boost pump which was fixed quickly and with little drama. The second was a mechanical failure (broken connector) in one of the PEM boards during service. The PEM took forever to get replaced due to a shortage of spare parts. That said, Tesla provided me with a no-cost Tesla loaner in the meantime and comp'ed the entire annual service.

Interior is a bit of a different issue. It aged relatively poorly and I had it redone after-market a few years back. There are also squeaks that come up from time to time that I track down and fix.

 

[X.l.r.8]

Owning a car for 10 years carries a different cost for different people. Some people here only have Tesla so the work on their cars, others use only Tesla parts. Some fine other parts to work or upgrade and others simply make parts. Reliability usually does not come down to the car but the owner. I hear a rattle/clunk/ squeak I find the problem and fix it. No different than I’d you have a slight oil leak, you either fix it or run out of oil. The roadsters have already proved themselves reliable, personally the PEM problem I believe is the constant removal of the fan plug causing it to fail and allow the PEM to run hotter than required. ‘Nearly’ always a. Problem after the single fan upgrade. Problem is the fix voids any help you may need from Tesla in the future. The obvious upgrades in my opinion to make the car a daily driver is better rear suspension. A more durable tire set. HID headlights and a newer stereo/amp/speaker setup. Most of the higher milage cars are daily drivers. My Cayenne has become my secure toolbox and has only done 20 miles since I got my Roadster. If you buy a car with a known battery problem (like what seems to be happening lately) don’t expect a simple cheap fix, or a known PEM issue throwing codes, that’s asking for trouble like a Subaru with a leaky head gasket, it’s not going to end well. But there are some great cars at realistic prices that most of us here would not hesitate to buy.
You are also asking people who cherish their cars and ensure they are reliable and are regularly maintaining their vehicles. Now if you ask the nice Mr. Clarkson however .........

 

[Kerios]

Like XLR8 says if you maintain the car, are willing to do some servicing yourself and look after it, then it's pretty robust. I drive mine more or less as a daily driver, up to 89k on the clock now and the last 12 months have been completely error free. That said I am on PEM number 4, and had the 3.0 upgrade 18 months ago, that fixed the PEM issue finally; which again as XLR8 states is almost certainly down to the fan connector being under rated for the load. Good tyres, decent headlights (working on that currently) and better brakes - at least change the pads and discs (I run EBCs which are good enough for UK roads and traffic) all improve the drivability.

Yes there will be issues about parts which are more bespoke, but the community is pretty strong and there hasn't been anything (yet) as far I can see that is an issue to replace, subsitute or upgrade. Yes again we are waiting for a better PEM and something will come along, or a new drive train I'm sure as a drop in like replacement. Ditto battery.

Biggest issue is more the bespoke fittings and panels, but again there are fibreglass replacements which cover the majority of panels and netshape manufacturing (3d printing for the layman) is ideal for volume part replacement.

In 10 years who knows, but my gut says we'll be okay. If on the otherhand you're not interested in doing maintenance yourself, and expect Tesla to do it, then I'd suggest it might not be the car for you...

 

[Bunnak]

Regarding your roadster, if left not charged/plugged for a couple weeks how many miles would it lose per day?

 

[X.l.r.8]

Your milage will vary. For a start mine is stored in an underground garage, Just got back from a 2 week holiday and lost 9km. I had nothing plugged in and my stereo has no battery back up. Also I know my condo garage is safe so I turned off the cam. the charger and anything I thought may drain the battery. As previously discovered the Sirus radio stays on even when the car is off so that would worry me, alone with the OVMS and anything that would potentially drain the battery. I like my homemade 120v lead and I would plug it in if longer than 2 weeks. The chances of the 120v failing at 12A is minimal and the Can Sr locked in place means no ones jumping in and driving away with the charge door locked open. I thought the losses would be greater, I know its not ideal to store the car with a full pack but I am more comfortable over losing 0.000001% of pack life over a bricked battery. The obvious choice is have someone check on the car but thats not always possible or fair on the other party.

 

[Bunnak]

You won’t except no more than 3 miles lost per day if left unplugged/not charged, correct? So for 3 weeks, no more than 80 miles lost?

 

[X.l.r.8]

thats 80 miles closer to bricked, id plug in to low voltage connector

 

[Bunnak]

It’s a long story. But I cannot plug it in. 3 weeks not plugged should be OK, right?

 

[dhrivnak]

It’s a long story. But I cannot plug it in. 3 weeks not plugged should be OK, right?

Yes if you start with a reasonable charge. I see about 2 miles a day in my 1.5/3.0. So I figure I am good for 4 months.

 

[Bunnak]

Thank goodness. Long story but I’ll give an update ...hopefully soon. Thanks everyone.

 

[hcsharp]

You won’t except no more than 3 miles lost per day if left unplugged/not charged, correct? So for 3 weeks, no more than 80 miles lost?

You will be fine for 3 or even 10 or more weeks. I lose about 1 - 1.5 miles per day.