Removing number plate holder

[Andrew_SE23]

Would you be kind enough to give a part number / link for the exact double sided tape you used? Thanks!

People tend to use 3M VHB tape like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TC16SZ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ig4JEbMF9XZFP

 

[Jez_GB]

Would you be kind enough to give a part number / link for the exact double sided tape you used? Thanks!

Sure, it was 10mm not 6mm - I ordered the wider size in the end - 3M Multi Sizes Automotive Truck Auto Acrylic Double Sided Adhesive Car Foam Tape | eBay

 

[up_north]

It has done for me. My vinyl plate has split where the hollow is. I’m going to see if I can fit an acrylic plate with double sided tape or something similar. People have also suggested filing the hollow with blu tack.

Vinyl on the front is a no brainier though.

Cheers - thanks, I fitted acrylic at the back. Ordered from Proplates and the sticky pads they also sell do the job fine.

 

[stonecoldrmw]

I have this evening done the rear plate. Quite happy with the results actually.

I took the old TESLA.COM plate and the surround off and removed the plate. The car needs a wash so I tidied up the rear of the plate and the black base with a bit of soapy water and left to dry.

I then applied some double sided tape (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LYMSV8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_LbVVEbQGS62JY) - this was the one i bought. Used the whole roll to ensure it stuck. Then before applying to the car, I warmed up the plate using my little room heater and a hair dryer for the back of the car. Then I made a move for it and made the connection. Here's the pics from my efforts.

 

[Durzel]

Looks good. It’s a shame the black plinth (?) the bracket attaches to is bigger than the plate itself.

I had to drive into work today and noticed the rear plate holder clattering over bumps. I assume it’s not possible to sort this without removing it?

 

[Pagemakers]

Why don’t you just remove it? I did. 5 mins. No problems.

Looks smart. No chatter.

 

[stonecoldrmw]

Looks good. It’s a shame the black plinth (?) the bracket attaches to is bigger than the plate itself.

I had to drive into work today and noticed the rear plate holder clattering over bumps. I assume it’s not possible to sort this without removing it?

I dont mind the mounting plinth being a bit bigger, it nicely outlines the plate. My issue was the original surround looks too big n beefy.

I'm going to order a vinyl one for the front.

 

[Gatsojon]

I dont mind the mounting plinth being a bit bigger, it nicely outlines the plate. My issue was the original surround looks too big n beefy.

I'm going to order a vinyl one for the front.

Get a vinyl for the back whilst you’re at it for the ultimate clean look.

 

[Durzel]

Each to their own but I think vinyl plates, particularly on the front, look a bit cheap. Hard to put my finger on why, but the caricature of the front bumper doesn’t help. Reminds me of those kit cars you can get.

Wouldn’t look so bad on the back, though.

You can do the same thing you did on the rear plate on the front.

 

[Gatsojon]

Each to their own but I think vinyl plates, particularly on the front, look a bit cheap. Hard to put my finger on why, but the caricature of the front bumper doesn’t help. Reminds me of those kit cars you can get.

Wouldn’t look so bad on the back, though.

You can do the same thing you did on the rear plate on the front.

You can do that, yes. I have no idea why Tesla seem to make the fixings so complex.

 

[Cogarch]

I have not bothered to do this yet but I presume you could insert some double-sided foam tape behind the holder to stop the clattering..?

 

[Durzel]

I had a crack at putting some foam tape between the rear plate sections (the front doesn’t rattle as far as I can tell).

First thing I noticed was that my plate assembly was different to a YouTube video I found. It didn’t pry open at the sides and lever down, I just had to pull off the TESLA.COM strip (mine doesn’t say ALL WHEEL DRIVE -?) and then pull the plate out.

This is what I found:

The bit that attaches to the car has small thin foam strips which I think prevent that part rattling. I opened and closed the boot a few times and it didn’t clatter.

The second part, the bit the plate sits in, has no padding and touches the bit that screws to the car. I decided to add some foam tape to that part.

This is what the second bit looks like. There are raised circles that I think are supposed to be like standoffs but they are plastic too, so don’t think they would help:

..and this is end result:

I reattached this to the car and opened and closed the boot a few times. I think it sounds better, but it could be placebo effect.

What I have discovered is that the plate slots into the second bit and moves quite freely, so I think it would rattle too. Am contemplating putting tape on the back of the plate too, but it might stop it slotting in properly.

 

[Durzel]

Re-reading the thread it looks like most of us have the same holder on the front as the back, the TESLA.COM one, not the ALL WHEEL DRIVE hinged one like in the video on page 3.

 

[Durzel]

To add to the above, I think the main source of rattle is actually the numberplate itself. It sits in the second plastic piece (the bit I added foam tape to) and can be moved about with your finger. It is only really held in place by the tabs and the TESLA.COM strip at the bottom.

I still heard a bit of a rattle when closing the boot even with the foam tape, so I ended up adding some tape to the back of the plate too, which seems to have cured it completely.

Lot of faffing when it would probably have just been easier to stick the plate directly to the first bit of plastic, or the boot lid itself, as others have done.

 

[stonecoldrmw]

To add to the above, I think the main source of rattle is actually the numberplate itself. It sits in the second plastic piece (the bit I added foam tape to) and can be moved about with your finger. It is only really held in place by the tabs and the TESLA.COM strip at the bottom.

I still heard a bit of a rattle when closing the boot even with the foam tape, so I ended up adding some tape to the back of the plate too, which seems to have cured it completely.

Lot of faffing when it would probably have just been easier to stick the plate directly to the first bit of plastic, or the boot lid itself, as others have done.

You mean as in like my post above?

 

[Durzel]

You mean as in like my post above?

Yeah The bit that screws to the car doesn't vibrate. It has some (thin) padding on the back of it already.

 

[stonecoldrmw]

For the back, i think that's a really simple look. works a treat.

 

[Rustybkts]

Re-reading the thread it looks like most of us have the same holder on the front as the back, the TESLA.COM one, not the ALL WHEEL DRIVE hinged one like in the video on page 3.

My car had a different one on the front than the back as the base is curved more and is marked front.
Both now in the recycling bin. Vinyl one on the front and plain on the back with double sided tape. Far nicer to look at.
When fitting the front one I recommend filling in the old holes as they can show through the vinyl.

Why on earth do Tesla supply three part number plate holders that are ugly to all, are seemingly very heavy for what they do yet skimp on two little hooks in the Frunk!

Edit....Wow Frunk hooks just arrived. £5.70 from Ebay and all the way from China. Ordered May 5th. How can they make any money unless Mr Musk fell out with his supplier and they are left with millions in stock!

 

[Keithmt]

My car had a different one on the front than the back as the base is curved more and is marked front.
Both now in the recycling bin. Vinyl one on the front and plain on the back with double sided tape. Far nicer to look at.
When fitting the front one I recommend filling in the old holes as they can show through the vinyl.

Who did you order the different plates from?

 

[Rustybkts]

www.onestopnumberplates.co.uk