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Removing Stock subwoofer

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While you are in there drop in the SoundQubed HDS2.108, you can get this sub for about $100, I've had it in my car for two years now and after the initial break in, it has been awesome, you will have to drill new screw holes, but beyond that its a drop in install, the OEM sub is a TPOS and weighs about 10 ounces vs the SQ which is 100 ounces. Note I also have the LightHarmonic AMP too, so I am driving ~ 600 watts to this sub.
Power Band - 600 Watts - SoundQubed




LightHarmonic AMP Specs

tesla_audio_system_amplifier_specifications_model_s12_TAS.png
Okay, the OEM sub is rated at 1 OHM and the OEM amp puts out 560 watts but 80 watts to the sub. How did you get the SoundQubed HDS2.108 sub to work if it is rated RMS at 600 watts and is a dual 4 OHM speaker. It seems as if this sub wouldn't match up very well or at all.
 
Okay, the OEM sub is rated at 1 OHM and the OEM amp puts out 560 watts but 80 watts to the sub. How did you get the SoundQubed HDS2.108 sub to work if it is rated RMS at 600 watts and is a dual 4 OHM speaker. It seems as if this sub wouldn't match up very well or at all.
It's a dual voice coil 2-Ohm speaker, so if you wire it in parallel, then you get 1 Ohm.
 
I stand corrected on the impedance. After wiring in parallel are you happy with the result? Isn't the wattage really high for the OEM amp?

That's not how it works. Speaker watts are the maximum power you can put into it. If you have 1000W amp and 600W sub, you are in a risk of burning a coil in the speaker.

But a 600W speaker with 80W amp is not a problem at all.
 
Did anyone ever install the newer version of the 8” soundqubed sub? I’m looking for a mostly drop in replacement.
I don't think an 8" would drop in, at least not without an adapter. Output would likely be less than the stock 10". A 10" woofer has more than 50% more cone area than an 8", so you need an 8" with a lot more excursion to beat a 10" with all other variables equal.

I would measure the stock driver cutout and match that against the different drivers available, noting the ideal volume. Look for a dual 2 ohm driver so you can wire it in parallel and maintain a 1 ohm load. This will let you keep all the power the stock amp will give you.
 
I don't think an 8" would drop in, at least not without an adapter. Output would likely be less than the stock 10". A 10" woofer has more than 50% more cone area than an 8", so you need an 8" with a lot more excursion to beat a 10" with all other variables equal.

I would measure the stock driver cutout and match that against the different drivers available, noting the ideal volume. Look for a dual 2 ohm driver so you can wire it in parallel and maintain a 1 ohm load. This will let you keep all the power the stock amp will give you.
Its an 8" woofer. The ask is if the new version of Soundqubed 8" would fit as their previous 8" model. There are some dimension differences between the 2. The only modification is with the wiring harness but thats easy to do.
 
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