-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
green1
Active Member
But what we can't guarantee is that it couldn't have been cleaned before voltage was applied.
Cleaning can do wonders in these cases if no power goes through it. That white might come off with some work, those areas you highlighted are probably toast.
Sure a professional repair is to simply remove and replace all those modules, but that doesn't mean that they can't be cleaned with some success, assuming power is not applied.
100% true. I can attest that phones and other electronics have survived immersion after steps were taken to clean and dry first.
green1
Active Member
Are you going to try to inspect/clean the chargers first? or just plug in and see what happens?
If the former, I have a ton of respect for the work you are doing to learn and repair.
If the latter, I'm starting to think that repair isn't really the goal...
I joke around a lot (in case you haven't been able to tell)
But in all seriousness I do not plan on plugging the car in until I assess the condition of the pack itself (ie dropping it). Next up is getting access to the chargers in the backseat and seeing if there is any voltage back there (even if they look great I'm not plugging the car in, however if the contactors are stuck shut then I really have a big problem on my hands). Judging by the water line and the condition of the body control unit, I know the charger and the HVIL in the back more than likely still have fish swimming in them (they have no sealing whatsoever). 12V shenanigans I can handle. 400V shenanigans. not so much.
Last edited:
jtpassat
Member
TMobe
I have forgotten more than I remember
thegruf
Active Member
mmmm ... I can smell it from here
fwiw I doubt that brown stained damage was done by you, that is more likely from prolonged damp whilst the unit was powered/residual charge.
Does seem to have been wet for some time as it looks as though it is concoated as wk says (maybe not very well) but the moisture has got under the coating.
time to get yourself some PCB cleaner and some DI water and a natural fibre brush ... let's see what's left in there
Almost certianly history but I have seen some stuff as bad as that resurrected in my time.
otoh go and find something that's not in quite such a mess
fwiw I doubt that brown stained damage was done by you, that is more likely from prolonged damp whilst the unit was powered/residual charge.
Does seem to have been wet for some time as it looks as though it is concoated as wk says (maybe not very well) but the moisture has got under the coating.
time to get yourself some PCB cleaner and some DI water and a natural fibre brush ... let's see what's left in there
Almost certianly history but I have seen some stuff as bad as that resurrected in my time.
otoh go and find something that's not in quite such a mess
Seems like it can be done, with a slightly ;edit MUCH; simpler car:
http://alialrawi.weebly.com/my-blog/rescuing-2013-infiniti-g37x-sandy-hurricane-flooded
This guy was able to repair his seats. Other than that, looks kinda similar.
http://alialrawi.weebly.com/my-blog/rescuing-2013-infiniti-g37x-sandy-hurricane-flooded
This guy was able to repair his seats. Other than that, looks kinda similar.
Last edited:
If you keep powering the systems up without having cleaned the salt electrolyte out, even for a short while, you will do irreparable damage to them!
Just because it's "working fine" doesn't mean it will keep working. The MCU has a lot of high-density components inside, and IS NOT conformal coated. The only things that are conformal coated are the critical systems, such as the drive inverter, charger, etc. I don't think any of the body modules are, and the IC/MCU definitely aren't.
You can replace the body ECU relatively cheaply, all it needs is a firmware flash, but if the MCU dies, you have a $6k problem! Also, it would be difficult if not impossible to program a replacement without the original data.
The salt water forms an electrolyte and causes the reverse of electroplating to occur; the power present causes the conductors on the PCB and on parts, connectors, etc. to literally disappear!
Just because it's "working fine" doesn't mean it will keep working. The MCU has a lot of high-density components inside, and IS NOT conformal coated. The only things that are conformal coated are the critical systems, such as the drive inverter, charger, etc. I don't think any of the body modules are, and the IC/MCU definitely aren't.
You can replace the body ECU relatively cheaply, all it needs is a firmware flash, but if the MCU dies, you have a $6k problem! Also, it would be difficult if not impossible to program a replacement without the original data.
The salt water forms an electrolyte and causes the reverse of electroplating to occur; the power present causes the conductors on the PCB and on parts, connectors, etc. to literally disappear!
mmmm ... I can smell it from here
fwiw I doubt that brown stained damage was done by you, that is more likely from prolonged damp whilst the unit was powered/residual charge.
Does seem to have been wet for some time as it looks as though it is concoated as wk says (maybe not very well) but the moisture has got under the coating.
time to get yourself some PCB cleaner and some DI water and a natural fibre brush ... let's see what's left in there
Almost certianly history but I have seen some stuff as bad as that resurrected in my time.
otoh go and find something that's not in quite such a mess
Im ok with replacing the BCM as I assumed that I would have to replace most modules in the car anyway. The MCU will be removed from the vehicle soon as Id like to take a peek behind the dashboard for more issues.
Kidding aside the burning smell was coming from the BCM (sniff test confirmed) it looks like one of the capacitors popped off the board and comitted suicide.
I dont 100% believe I caused that damage either, however assuming the brown stains werent there I still wouldnt trust a BCM that was "repaired" seeing as they can be replaced for relatively low cost. Perhaps if it was freshwater but saltwater, not worth the time.
Remember this car has been sitting since October timeframe with saltwater in the electronics. I never saw much hope for the BCM and assumed it to be dead.
Im treating the HV battery in the same fashion. I'll remove it and address it at a later time.
Johan
Ex got M3 in the divorce, waiting for EU Model Y!
Btr: Love your positive attitude. Please promise though you don't plug any live wires in the charge port under any condition!
Also be very careful removing and storing the HV battery. If damaged/if there are shorts inside due to salt water corrosion or mechanical damage you could face self ignition, even after it sitting for a long while. Rember what happened with those Volt batteries after crash testing: Electric car battery catches fire after crash test - Yahoo Finance
Also be very careful removing and storing the HV battery. If damaged/if there are shorts inside due to salt water corrosion or mechanical damage you could face self ignition, even after it sitting for a long while. Rember what happened with those Volt batteries after crash testing: Electric car battery catches fire after crash test - Yahoo Finance
5thumbs
Member
Yea, it is cool that you are taking this on and sharing. I'm enjoying the information and pictures. I hope this journey pays dividend for you. Makes me want to start up some sort of project of my own. Know that you have motivated me to find something to do that is different and challenging.
Similar threads
