Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

[JRP3]

Yes, they have 2 holes right in the middle of the top of the DU, one for the inverter and one for the gear box. So water runs right in both and has no way out.

That's crazy. Sounds like a good mod might be to press in or glue in a hose barb or something to attach a vent hose and valve to.

 

[NOLA_Mike]

6 ounces may well be ok. There might be just enough room in the housing for that, but it will take a long time for that much water to evaporate through a tiny hole, meanwhile your inverter is a tropical rainforest.

It really depends on where the water runs when it goes in. If you took a hard right turn afterwards it could run into the motor and contact the 3-phase bus bars causing a "Car may not restart" error.

My question becomes, based on what you guys now know, what is the deepest standing water depth you can drive through before you risk getting water in any of this openings?

 

[Btr_ftw]

UPDATE


Progress being made, lots of interesting stuff has happened in the last few days, new discoveries etc. Just got tied up in a few other things, hoping to have updates soon.

 

[Ingineer]

My question becomes, based on what you guys now know, what is the deepest standing water depth you can drive through before you risk getting water in any of this openings?

The exact level depends on your specific car's configuration, but for those with no air suspension, and a large rear drive unit, it's approximately 20" static water line from the road. However, if you are moving, water gets sprayed all over, so some could get in at much lower levels. It's impossible to predict. It's definitely a bad design. I haven't looked at the small drive unit yet to know if they've fixed this for it. If so, then the 70D, 85D, 90D etc are less likely to have flood damage.

 

[satoshi]

The exact level depends on your specific car's configuration, but for those with no air suspension, and a large rear drive unit, it's approximately 20" static water line from the road. However, if you are moving, water gets sprayed all over, so some could get in at much lower levels. It's impossible to predict. It's definitely a bad design. I haven't looked at the small drive unit yet to know if they've fixed this for it. If so, then the 70D, 85D, 90D etc are less likely to have flood damage.

Would it negatively affect the performance of the components inside to add some sort of sealant to make these things more water resistant?

 

[Sogorman]

Thanks again to the OP Btr_ftw, and Ingineer for insights on this thread. It has been most enjoyable and educational.

 

[satoshi]

woah now..

I take FULL responsibility for the areas highlighted in RED

the rest the salt water took care of on its own :biggrin:

For the record:

If you hadn't attempted to power it on, you may have had a chance by submerging it in deionized/distilled water.

Powering it on basically took this from a "there's a hope" to "no way in hell."

Unless you have discarded them already, I would still try:

1. submerging in distilled/deionized water for about 10-15 min.

2. Put in oven at 85C for some time

repeat until convinced EVERY piece of salt is gone.

Then, visually inspect the traces on the board to see if there are any shorts, use that multi-meter you have to test for continuity across traces that should not have continuity.

If you have shorts... it's a goner. If not, maybe repeat the process another 10-20 times and THEN try to power it up. You don't want to power it up until you're absolutely sure EVERY LAST BIT OF SALT is out of every last bit of space on that board.

Always using dionized water as the salt would dissolve into it.

 

[Ingineer]

Body ECUs are not that expensive, and that one is definitely gone. I'd just replace it, or wait until you get a parts car which you need, that will probably have the ECU too.

 

[pupik]

Always using dionized water as the salt would dissolve into it.

deionized water is great, but disappear copper not return :wink:

 

[satoshi]

Body ECUs are not that expensive, and that one is definitely gone. I'd just replace it, or wait until you get a parts car which you need, that will probably have the ECU too.

The only question becomes... where do you get the replacement body ECU from? Tesla won't sell Body ECUs.

 

[Ingineer]

They are available used. Here's one for $250:
http:/ebay.com/itm/291659508214

 

[Btr_ftw]

They are available used. Here's one for $250:
http:/ebay.com/itm/291659508214

Down from 450$. I told him I would wait till its about 150.

He has been slowly dropping it with every relist.

 

[Ingineer]

I wouldn't buy that until you see if you can find a whole wreck. Buy the wreck, put all the parts you need in your chassis, and then sell the rest, I bet you can almost break even.

 

[Btr_ftw]

I wouldn't buy that until you see if you can find a whole wreck. Buy the wreck, put all the parts you need in your chassis, and then sell the rest, I bet you can almost break even.

Agreed. I'm looking at a few and may need your 2nd opinion.

 

[Btr_ftw]

UPDATE

So I figured I would post where the interior sits as of right now. All plastic surfaces that you would touch normally have been removed from the car (some will be thrown away some may be kept) I will remove the knee height tan leather panel under the steering wheel soon.

I have not yet cleaned the interior of salt, but will be washing and documenting that soon.

Onto the photos...

- - - Updated - - -

see the subwoofer photo a few pages back for the reference of where the water line was

- - - Updated - - -

this is where the bcm and sunroof control module lived under the passenger side footwell

- - - Updated - - -

this is what used to be the rear seat

lots of salt still remaining, haven't given her a bath as yet

- - - Updated - - -

The sunroof motors are located 2 inches below the A pillars. Well guess what? They would have been fine had the sunroof module not failed and left the sunroof stuck open about 1 inch. Water trickled down from the sunroof, down the A pillars and got to the motor (see the corrosion on the housing).

 

[Sogorman]

Well think of it this way, it will now be easier to further deaden the sound and insulate the vehicle.

Yea... we will stick with that. (cringing)

Good work Btr

 

[Btr_ftw]

I know I may take a long time to get back to you guys for updates. Please keep in mind I'm doing this for YOU ALL. FREE OF CHARGE. Most people have never seen a Tesla in its full naked glory, I know I would have loved to stumble on a thread like this and let some other idiot spend the money and time to do this and document it.

I hope you all are enjoying it so far, I will have gopro footage coming soon as well as many photos of the process I went through to drop the battery pack.

- - - Updated - - -

By the way this was my face when I saw what was lurking inside of the battery pack

 

[scaesare]

Great pics.

Any guesstimates as to how many hours you have in to the project thus far?

 

[Btr_ftw]

Great pics.

Any guesstimates as to how many hours you have in to the project thus far?

If I had to guess, maybe 18-20 hours, working about 1.5 to 2 hours a few nights here and there, taking various photos, taking my sweet A$$ time.

 

[Fuzzylogic]

Thanks Btr_ftw for sharing this with us.

I'm looking forward to see pictures of the inside of the DU and battery pack.

Btw while googling the sunroof motor i found this:
2008 Peugeot 207 SW 1 6 Panoramic Sunroof Roof Motor | eBay

Looks very similar...