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Repairing CyberTruck Stainless Steel might be easier than I realized

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Jedi2155

Model 3 has Arrived.
Jul 6, 2018
1,758
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Upland, CA
I was thinking about how difficult it might be to repair a cyber truck and I don't think it would crazy be since the strength of the vehicle is from the exoskeleton and they're all relatively flat without curves.

So imagine:
  • Dent - just bend it back
  • Hole - Patch it with another piece piece of stainless and either weld, rivet, or replace the panel.
  • Crumple - same as a hole or a dent unless it takes too large of an area where it significantly weakens the exoskeleton then its a total like any other uni body vehicle.
Given that, I don't think there are that many body shops familiar in working with stainless steel so it might be high costs at first compared with directly getting repairs from Tesla which may be cheaper.


Let me know what you guys think and how far off base am I?
 
I doubt that you could make a patch job look decent. First of all it's 3mm thick. Second, you couldn't get 30x SS material, and any time you try to weld in 301, it will never look the same. Third and fatally, most damage that can be done will be transmitted over a larger area.

It will come down to replacing panels with like. Presumably they're bolted/crash-rating glued.

No idea how they could have designed it as an "exoskeleton" and any suggestion would be speculation. But this material will not be amenable to small dings and dents. As I understand, it is soft enough to be malleable to the degree of bending the corners without cracking (-after- scoring), but too hard for anything else.
 
I was thinking about how difficult it might be to repair a cyber truck and I don't think it would crazy be since the strength of the vehicle is from the exoskeleton and they're all relatively flat without curves.

So imagine:
  • Dent - just bend it back
  • Hole - Patch it with another piece piece of stainless and either weld, rivet, or replace the panel.
  • Crumple - same as a hole or a dent unless it takes too large of an area where it significantly weakens the exoskeleton then its a total like any other uni body vehicle.
Given that, I don't think there are that many body shops familiar in working with stainless steel so it might be high costs at first compared with directly getting repairs from Tesla which may be cheaper.


Let me know what you guys think and how far off base am I?

Have you ever worked with stainless? Welded patch panels?
There is nothing easy or cheap about it. You can't just "bend" a dent back like a PDR repair on a conventional panel.
PDR on material this thick made of stainless? I doubt it. Probably should't get minor dings but all cars get smacked by other things from time to time.
This will be anything but easy or conventional. The easy option mentioned above would be best. If the panels are glued in place then removing the damaged panel and replacing it with a new one is the best bet.
 
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My biggest question has been is the panels all 1 piece bent together something like this that makes single panel replacements hard to do because you'd "compromise" the exoskeleton". Cheap for manufacturing but would be a PITA to actually replace a single panel.

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Fabricators who are equipped for and practiced in dealing with stainless are going to be the right people to make it look good. Lots of stainless gets custom fabricated in food processing facilities. Also some custom work gets done in restaurants and for customized food trucks. There may also be some shops that do architectural work.
 
Stainless w/o paint seems pretty crazy to me unless they've got some reasonable process for fixing damage. There's a lot of knowledge, skill and equipment out there to deal with paint, not so much stainless. I wonder what the insurance companies would think of this.
 
Stainless w/o paint seems pretty crazy to me unless they've got some reasonable process for fixing damage. There's a lot of knowledge, skill and equipment out there to deal with paint, not so much stainless. I wonder what the insurance companies would think of this.

Ryan McCaffrey with RTL podcast owned a DeLorean for 12 years. He mentioned on his podcast this week that you can 'buff' out scratches with a heavy duty scotch pad.
 
Found this article on Stainless steel

Have you ever used a steel wire wheel or steel wool to clean off a stainless steel tool, and then the stainless tool rusted in the same spot which was brushed clean? Or have you seen a stainless steel container or sink rust? Stainless corroding in the absence of a corrosive element (such as chlorine) is usually from very tiny steel particles touching the stainless steel surface. Chromium can protect stainless steel if the localized concentration is in excess of 12%, but if you cover the stainless surface with sufficient steel particles, then the localized concentration of chromium can fall below the 12% threshold and the chromium oxide layer fails to protect the stainless steel from oxygen attack. If this type of corrosion happens to stainless steel, it is fixable by: (A) Cleaning off all the rust, and then (B) removing the tiny steel particles by thoroughly cleaning the stainless steel part, usually with a solvent. These two steps should allow the chromium oxide layer to protect the stainless from further oxidation.

A less common form of rusting in stainless steel is after the stainless has been exposed to very high temperatures, often in the 750-1550°F range (400-850°C)1. This type of corrosion is often seen in welding applications in which stainless is heated and then cooled. If this happens, “sensitization” can occur which is where the carbon and the chromium bond together in the stainless steel and form carbides. These carbides situate themselves at the stainless steel grain boundaries, and the grain boundaries become deficient of chromium. With lower chromium concentrations at the grain boundaries, the chromium oxide protective layer can become discontinuous and rusting becomes possible. “Sensitization” can ruin stainless steel forever; however the damage can sometimes be mitigated with complex heat treating.

Although rust is something most of us see on an everyday basis and appears to be a simple occurrence it can result from a number of complex processes. Understanding the materials science of metals is critical to ensuring correct product performance and fixing issues, such as rust, as they occur. It is also critical to understand the materials science of metals and rust when working on a failure analysis investigation involving corrosion. If you find yourself dealing with unexpected rust or other metal performance issues please comment below or reach out to us at [email protected].

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Here is my post from another similar thread....


I worked for years making stainless steel kitchen equipment and my skills are beyond what would be needed to repair body damage on the Cybertruck, as I used to make sinks and other curved and polished surfaces.

First off, the general repairability. Easy, especially because the body is basically flat. You could cut the damage out, make a new piece and tig weld it in. It looks like one brake/kink/crease is all that would be needed, if any at all. Grinding the weld down may require some skill depending on the finish desired.

Second, scratches. This all depends on the finish of the truck. Most people think of kitchen stainless steel, and that is grained cosmetically. Look at a stainless fridge, there is grain. When grained stainless scratches, it can be polished out by a skilled person, but it is not especially hard or time consuming, even easier on flat surfaces. Fine scratches can be blended with a Scotch pad, always going with the grain.

However, if the stainless is not grained rather swirled, well then any scratch could be perfectly removed in about 60 seconds with a 30$ tool, this includes fairly deep scratches.

How great would that be, no paint work, no corrosion concerns, no blending, basically hit it with a palm sander.

What I don't know is exactly what is being the stainless skin. Are there stainless ribs, gussets, etc., that would complicate repairs?

To me, besides weight, stainless is kind of the dream material. It is very workable, repairable, is everything-proof.

The Discovery Channel had a series about what would happen if humans went extinct. They concluded that the last evidence of humanity would be a stainless steel sink sitting in a swamp 50 millions years later.

So, if you have a swirl finish, any cosmetic scratching is soooo easily and cheaply fixed.

If you have a polished/grain finish, scratches are less easily repaired, but still far more easy that dealing with paint.

For body/exoskeleton damage, as long as there is are not complex structures behind the damage, it is very doable.
 
Ryan McCaffrey with RTL podcast owned a DeLorean for 12 years. He mentioned on his podcast this week that you can 'buff' out scratches with a heavy duty scotch pad.

There's a few DeLorean owners on these parts (I'm one as well). I'd been advocating for Tesla to brush / grain one of the Cybertruck prototypes. But someone pointed out that the 30X stainless is significantly tougher than the DeLorean's, and so graining it and buffing out scratches might be more difficult.
 
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