Replacing instrument cluster

[uscgreel]

Brett, Glad everything went good for you! And that is interesting that you could reset the IC with the buttons, that saved you a lot of time! Thanks for the recommendation!

We are now capable of swapping Gen 1 screens to Gen 2 screens, but I will warn you, it is not as cheap as Gen 2 IC swaps. Here is a quick run down, on how it will go.
You will need to buy a donor Gen 2 complete assembly, which we sell as well.
You can buy our new screen and install it, so the donor assembly won't bubble 2 weeks after you install it.
You will need us to hook a laptop up to it and allow us to reprogram the donor IC to the car.
Cost is $1200 and includes donor Gen 2 assembly, ReelDealEV new screen installed and programing.
I know this is a tough bill to swallow, but unfortunately Gen 1 IC's are not available.

 

[uscgreel]

Purchased! Once I receive my screen from reeldealev I'll post a similiar update and experience with this screen replacement. Hopefully it goes as smoothly.

Paul, it said yours got there Saturday! Hopefully you are installing it as we speak!

 

[jvanyc]

Brett, Glad everything went good for you! And that is interesting that you could reset the IC with the buttons, that saved you a lot of time! Thanks for the recommendation!

We are now capable of swapping Gen 1 screens to Gen 2 screens, but I will warn you, it is not as cheap as Gen 2 IC swaps. Here is a quick run down, on how it will go.
You will need to buy a donor Gen 2 complete assembly, which we sell as well.
You can buy our new screen and install it, so the donor assembly won't bubble 2 weeks after you install it.
You will need us to hook a laptop up to it and allow us to reprogram the donor IC to the car.
Cost is $1200 and includes donor Gen 2 assembly, ReelDealEV new screen installed and programing.
I know this is a tough bill to swallow, but unfortunately Gen 1 IC's are not available.

Can you elaborate on this a bit more? I have a 2015 with Gen 1 Instrument Cluster that is bubbling. Can I just buy the replacement screen or I have to go the expensive route?

 

[BrettS]

Can you elaborate on this a bit more? I have a 2015 with Gen 1 Instrument Cluster that is bubbling. Can I just buy the replacement screen or I have to go the expensive route?

Are you sure you have a gen 1 instrument cluster screen? My 2015 model S has a gen 2 screen. I think they switched to gen 2 well before 2015. Note that this is different than the gen 1 MCU that your car does have.

 

[jvanyc]

Are you sure you have a gen 1 instrument cluster screen? My 2015 model S has a gen 2 screen. I think they switched to gen 2 well before 2015. Note that this is different than the gen 1 MCU that your car does have.

I think you are 100% correct. I was thinking the gen was matched with the MCU. I am almost certain I have the Gen 2 Instrument Cluster

 

[jvanyc]

I just recently replaced mine, and in the process found a different way of doing it, just replace the bad part, the screen!! Don't replace everything, then you risk having to reprogram thru SC. I decided to create a shop to sell them to others or install it for you. Let me know if you are interested. Instrument Cluster to replaced bubbled, leaking Tesla Model S & X screen — Reel Deal

Your link is broken btw.

 

[Gu$ G]

Paul, it said yours got there Saturday! Hopefully you are installing it as we speak!

Thank you for shipping so quickly. Very satisfied after purchasing from Reel Deal. The quality of the display definitely exceeded all my expectations.

This IC change was super easy, took about 2.5 hours, with at least 30-60 minutes of that devoted to cleaning glue from the metal housing. If you've changed a door handle or pulled your eMMC then this is no problem for you.

Echo what everyone else has said; this glue is no joke. Otherwise, very glad I fixed this and very glad I went through Chad at Reel Deal to buy the replacement screen.

Here's a few tips. Some of these are covered elsewhere but that's OK.
1. There's a bunch of youtube videos that will walk you through the change, such as here and here

2. Tape up the the silver trim around the MCU and IC! It scratches very easily, ask me how I know. Fortunately that was my last Model S! In this picture, I haven't yet taped up the IC console trim ring, don't be like me!

IMG_20200608_101906

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

3. The ribbon cables were a bit stressful to release. For the large one in this picture, you'll want to pull straight up on the outer tabs. Once they pull up and release, the clip will tip back and the ribbon cable will pull out easily.

IMG_20200608_091652

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

IMG_20200608_095528

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

4. Be ready to clean a bunch of glue and its not that bad, just have what you need nearby! You'll want rubber gloves, rags, and a solvent such as acetone. Wearing gloves is a must as the stuff is terrible to get off your hands or anything it wasn't supposed to touch. If you bought the display from Reel Deal, you'll be reusing the metal IC housing and board since you're only swapping the screen. You'll be cleaning that metal housing as well as any glue off the inside of your dash (mine had a small puddle).

5. The replacement screen is as good as new. Here's a before and after.

IMG_20200608_084519

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

IMG_20200608_103647

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

 

[uscgreel]

Your link is broken btw.

That is one of my biggest pet peeves, thank you! I changed the search to better suite the Google algorithm, but then broke the link here, you just cant win! Unfortunately it will not allow me to edit that post, but here is a new link. Instrument Cluster to replaced bubbled, leaking Tesla Model S and X screen — Reel Deal
To answer your question about which screen you have, another way to help identify is based off the Instrument Cluster Surround. Check this one out on the details: How to tell what generation instrument cluster you have on your Tesla Model S and X — Reel Deal
And finally, I have found and purchased new GEN 1 screens, I don't physically have them yet, but I should by July 7th, I will make an official announcement when I get them and they work.
Until they arrive, if you have a Gen 1, your options are very limited.

Thank you for shipping so quickly. Very satisfied after purchasing from Reel Deal. The quality of the display definitely exceeded all my expectations.

This IC change was super easy, took about 2.5 hours, with at least 30-60 minutes of that devoted to cleaning glue from the metal housing. If you've changed a door handle or pulled your eMMC then this is no problem for you.

Echo what everyone else has said; this glue is no joke. Otherwise, very glad I fixed this and very glad I went through Chad at Reel Deal to buy the replacement screen.

Here's a few tips. Some of these are covered elsewhere but that's OK.
1. There's a bunch of youtube videos that will walk you through the change, such as here and here

2. Tape up the the silver trim around the MCU and IC! It scratches very easily, ask me how I know. Fortunately that was my last Model S! In this picture, I haven't yet taped up the IC console trim ring, don't be like me!

IMG_20200608_101906

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

3. The ribbon cables were a bit stressful to release. For the large one in this picture, you'll want to pull straight up on the outer tabs. Once they pull up and release, the clip will tip back and the ribbon cable will pull out easily.

IMG_20200608_091652

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

IMG_20200608_095528

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

4. Be ready to clean a bunch of glue and its not that bad, just have what you need nearby! You'll want rubber gloves, rags, and a solvent such as acetone. Wearing gloves is a must as the stuff is terrible to get off your hands or anything it wasn't supposed to touch. If you bought the display from Reel Deal, you'll be reusing the metal IC housing and board since you're only swapping the screen. You'll be cleaning that metal housing as well as any glue off the inside of your dash (mine had a small puddle).

5. The replacement screen is as good as new. Here's a before and after.

IMG_20200608_084519

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

IMG_20200608_103647

• Gu$ G
• Jun 13, 2020

Excellent write up! This will help many others, thanks again

 

[Majerus]

Just replaced my panel this evening with a new one from Reel Deal.. Removing the goo sucked, however with enough alcohol it was able to be cleaned just took forever.

I did not disconnect the HV or 12V systems when doing this. I powered down the car from the screen, then stayed off the seat and brake so not to wake the car. When the screen was replaced I did a reboot of the center and top screen using the steering wheel

Removing the rectangle cable was a bit of pain. You need to press then swing the plastic latch over which will disengage the clips.

 

[Mamat41wrx]

Hi,

congratulations for your work and thank you for your tutorials which increase the knowledge of the Tesla community !

I have a Tesla Model S70d from 12/2015 and unfortunately my screen is black ! I have no bubbles, but overnight he never wanted to turn on again ... (updates made, reeboot with the steering wheel knobs done).
With your experience, have you ever had a similar case please ? should i replace the whole screen?
Tesla announces 500 € diagnostic + parts (screen at 1500 €) ... as much to tell you that I prefer to do it myself !
(I have not yet dismantled my dashboard to check the reference of my screen)

- If I buy a screen with the same reference on the back, will it work without having to go to Tesla for an update (if they accept ...) ?
I saw 2 websites:
- Tesla Model S New Screen, Tesla Model X New Screen in USA — Reel Deal
- Usagé Tesla Model S Model S Compteur kilométrique KM - 100479800E - Autobedrijf Broekhuis B.V.

Thanks again for your precious help.

Mathew from France.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49991017886_c7f8803b83_b.jpg

(sorry if it's not perfectly, google traduction)

-------------------------------------------------------

Bonjour a tous,

bravo pour votre persévérance et merci pour vos tutoriels qui font grandir les connaissances de la communauté Tesla !

J'ai une Tesla Model S70d de 12/2015 et malheureusement mon écran est noir ! Je n'ai pas de bulles, mais du jour au lendemain il n'a jamais voulu se rallumer ... (mises a jour faites, reeboot avec les molettes du volant fait).
Avec votre expérience, avez vous déjà eu un cas similaire svp ? dois-je remplacer tout l’écran ?
Tesla m'annonce 500€ de diagnostic + pièces (écran a 1500€) ... autant vous dire que je préfère le faire moi même !
(je n'ai pas encore démonté mon tableau de bord pour vérifier la référence de mon écran)

- Si j’achète un écran avec la même référence au dos, est ce que ça marchera sans devoir aller chez Tesla pour une mise a jour (si ils acceptent ...) ?
j 'ai vu 2 sites internet :
- Tesla Model S New Screen, Tesla Model X New Screen in USA — Reel Deal
- Usagé Tesla Model S Model S Compteur kilométrique KM - 100479800E - Autobedrijf Broekhuis B.V.

Merci encore pour votre aide précieuse.

Mathieu de France.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49991017886_c7f8803b83_b.jpg

 

[BrettS]

Hi Matthew. Unfortunately it’s difficult to tell what the problem is. It is certainly possible that it is the screen and replacing the screen could fix the problem, or it could be the driver board or a wire or other electronics. It’s also possible that it’s just a blown fuse or something too, but I don’t know if the IC screen is on it’s own fuse, so that is just speculation.

Unfortunately at this point your best bet is probably to go to Tesla and let them take care of it. You could just order a screen and that might fix the problem, but it might not. And if it doesn’t you will have spent $300 and still have to go to Tesla for the repair.

If you know someone with a model S or a model X and they are a very nice person then maybe they would allow you to temporarily take their screen and put it in your car to see if it fixes the problem.

Good luck

 

[BrettS]

Also, if you haven’t tried it yet, you might want to try to turn the car off (on the MCU go to settings, safety and security, then power off). You could also try to disconnect the 12V battery and the high voltage battery (at the same time) to make sure everything is powered down and reset, but it’s a bit of work to do that.

 

[Mamat41wrx]

Hello,

thank you for your good advice!

What is the procedure to stop and reset everything please ?
(parameters / security / protection: ok) ... 12V battery ? High voltage battery ?

Thank you !!!!!!


ps : I will always have Tesla diagnosed ... for repair it will be according to the price !


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bonjour,

merci a vous pour vos bons conseils !

Quelle est la procédure pour tout éteindre svp et re-initialiser svp ?
(parametres / securite / protection : ok) ... batterie 12V ? batterie HT ?

merci !!!!!!


ps : je vais tout de même faire faire le diagnostic chez tesla ... pour la réparation ce sera suivant le prix !

 

[BrettS]

If you watch the first part of the video reeldealev posted here: Replacing instrument cluster it shows you how to disconnect the 12V battery and the high voltage battery.

good luck

 

[DukeJockey]

I just noticed the dreaded bubbles in the top right corner of the IC on my '15 85D. Fortunately, several searches led me to this thread, and I just placed an order for one of ReelDeal's replacement screens. Note that on ReelDeal's web site under the Updates tab there are some photos of how to tell a Gen 1 screen from a Gen 2 without having to disassemble the dash first.

As a brand new member (I can't even upload a photo yet that would explain my alias), I must say that this forum is fantastic. I hope my screen replacement goes as smoothly as it has for the other contributors. With all the great info available here, I'm pretty confident that it will. Now I need to go order an air wedge.

Later I'll post a lament about the drunk driver that side-swiped my Model S while it was parked on the street. Still dealing with it 16 months later.

 

[BrettS]

I just noticed the dreaded bubbles in the top right corner of the IC on my '15 85D. Fortunately, several searches led me to this thread, and I just placed an order for one of ReelDeal's replacement screens. Note that on ReelDeal's web site under the Updates tab there are some photos of how to tell a Gen 1 screen from a Gen 2 without having to disassemble the dash first.

As a brand new member (I can't even upload a photo yet that would explain my alias), I must say that this forum is fantastic. I hope my screen replacement goes as smoothly as it has for the other contributors. With all the great info available here, I'm pretty confident that it will. Now I need to go order an air wedge.

Later I'll post a lament about the drunk driver that side-swiped my Model S while it was parked on the street. Still dealing with it 16 months later.

Good luck with your replacement. I believe that they switched to gen 2 screens well before 2015, so you should definitely have a gen 2 screen.

Also, as I stated above, I did the replacement without an air wedge without any issues. If you already had one then it might make things a little easier, but I don’t really think that it’s worth buying one just for this.

 

[Maldist]

Hi everyone, looking for some help on what the newest high resolution IC screen I can install on my Gen 1 setup is. I’d like to keep my classic speedometer display and original metal trim. From what I’ve read it seems I would not need a software update if I change screen only. Also, does newest screen give better resolution? Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Maldist]

Hi everyone, looking for some help on what the newest high resolution IC screen I can install on my Gen 1 setup is. I’d like to keep my classic speedometer display and original metal trim. From what I’ve read it seems I would not need a software update if I change screen only. Also, does newest screen give better resolution? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Also forgot to mention I have a 2013 Classic Model S, pre-AP

 

[BrettS]

I’m less familiar with the gen 1 screens, but I know that the gen 2 screen is not a direct fit for the gen 1 driver board. You can’t just do a screen only replacement with a gen 2 screen.

You should be able to do a screen only replacement with a gen 1 screen, and in that case it would just be the same resolution as what you already have. I don’t know if there’s a good source for gen 1 screens though. Reeldealev has indicated that they are trying to find a source, but I don’t know if they have done so yet.

The other option is to switch out both the screen and the driver board with a gen 2 screen and driver board. This would get you the higher resolution gen 2 screen (and I believe you would keep the same speedometer... I don’t believe the speedometer is a function of the screen or driver board). However, that’s not really a DIY project as the driver board needs to be married to the car by the service center or it will not function. Some people have had luck doing the replacement themselves and getting their service center to do the software update that allows the new driver board to function in the car, but it seems that most service centers refuse to do this.

 

[Maldist]

I’m less familiar with the gen 1 screens, but I know that the gen 2 screen is not a direct fit for the gen 1 driver board. You can’t just do a screen only replacement with a gen 2 screen.

You should be able to do a screen only replacement with a gen 1 screen, and in that case it would just be the same resolution as what you already have. I don’t know if there’s a good source for gen 1 screens though. Reeldealev has indicated that they are trying to find a source, but I don’t know if they have done so yet.

The other option is to switch out both the screen and the driver board with a gen 2 screen and driver board. This would get you the higher resolution gen 2 screen (and I believe you would keep the same speedometer... I don’t believe the speedometer is a function of the screen or driver board). However, that’s not really a DIY project as the driver board needs to be married to the car by the service center or it will not function. Some people have had luck doing the replacement themselves and getting their service center to do the software update that allows the new driver board to function in the car, but it seems that most service centers refuse to do this.

Got it. Thank you so much for the clarification. I was starting to get confused after reading so many threads and different situations/setups. Much appreciated.