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Replacing instrument cluster

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#141
StephenM said:
I'm not blaming your instructions, they're actually quite detailed. I'm blaming my inexperience working with circuit boards and do hope anybody else working on a Gen I will learn from my mistake :D

I'll dm you.
Click to expand...

Screen replacements do not require programing. only circuit board replacements will require programing. Anyone removing their screen to be replaced with one from ReelDeal should not need any programing or deployment.
 
#142
StephenM said:
View attachment 574456
View attachment 574457

My worst nightmare. Looks like I broke the post where the ribbon cable connector attaches to the motherboard. I was reading the instructions from others and it says “pull up slowly from the edges of the black trim” and it looks like I have a different connector. These have white retaining clips that you have to slide out horizontally which frees the tension on the ribbon and then you can pull it out.

So, what’s my options now? The most expensive is to have Tesla take care of it and change out the whole unit (they quoted me $1600 in the past).

Possible to find a specialist who can solder the connector back on?

Any tips would be appreciated
Click to expand...

You can get a replacement motherboard, try posting and see if anyone who did screen replacements before kept their old board, You may be able to get one cheap here. You will need to wait till your mcu has an update. Actually PM me some better pics of the damage. We may be able to solder it back on.
 
#143
Well decided to replace my LG cluster lcd screen, as it had a few bubbles.

IMG_1201.JPG


No glue was leaking out, I thought I might be able to just gorilla glue it and prevent further air from getting in, but after having it out I don't think that would work; didn't really see any open holes where air was getting in, so just decided to just order a new lcd screen. I managed to find one direct from China for $165 here: (plus $29 shipping, plus $22 duties)

Original LA123WF1-SL01 LG Screen panel 12.3Inch 1920×720 LA123WF1-SL01 LCD Display - Original Replacement For LG Panel (LG-LMJ-181113-37) - $165.99

Here is a shot of the old vs new:

IMG_1197.JPG


And here is how she looks after a reboot:

IMG_1198.JPG


Getting pretty good at removing the dash: had this whole job done in under 2 hours. I think I read somewhere these are updated and different now? and the glue won't run out: Or there is no glue? Not sure, but worst case scenario should be good for another 7 years :)
 
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#144
Bueno said:
I have had to change my IC for the same issue. When I powered up the car it said take to service center or something like that.... I took the screen back out and removed the rear cover and swapped my board into the good IC put it back and put it back in. No more service center visit for me. It was a simple swap of the boards if I remember right there are only like 2 or 3 ribbon cables.

I picked up my screen for about $150 BTW
Click to expand...
Hello Bueno,

I need to replace the screen of the instrument cluster as well. This is for a gen1 screen. Please let me know where did you get this part for $150. Thanks
 
#146
JGCD,
If your Cluster is just leaking, you can disassemble it. Remove the glass, "de-goo" the screen, and reassemble. I have done this, followed some instruction found right here on this site. Search it out. If you need a Gen1 screen you can PM me and we can work something out. Reel Deal is also another way to go for replacement.
Another $.02
Kaveman
 
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#148
Kaveman said:
JGCD,
If your Cluster is just leaking, you can disassemble it. Remove the glass, "de-goo" the screen, and reassemble. I have done this, followed some instruction found right here on this site. Search it out. If you need a Gen1 screen you can PM me and we can work something out. Reel Deal is also another way to go for replacement.
Another $.02
Kaveman
Click to expand...
Thanks Kaveman, yes I think the cluster is just leaking so I'll search here on this site. I looked some options on Reel Deal but could not find the exact part number that I need, which is 1039357-00-H. Let me know if you can get it and I'll give you my email. I found it online but would like to get a cheaper price. Btw, I don't think I have the option to PM you here since I am new on this site.
 
#150
jgcd said:
Thanks Kaveman, yes I think the cluster is just leaking so I'll search here on this site. I looked some options on Reel Deal but could not find the exact part number that I need, which is 1039357-00-H. Let me know if you can get it and I'll give you my email. I found it online but would like to get a cheaper price. Btw, I don't think I have the option to PM you here since I am new on this site.
Click to expand...
Hi Tesla motors club team, I bought just the screen (not with the IC) for a gen1 cluster for $150 on Autobahn Parts - Autobahn BMW & Porsche Parts Dismantler. They have gen2 as well in case you need it. You can buy the whole cluster with the IC or just the screen.
 
#151
jgcd said:
Hi Tesla motors club team, I bought just the screen (not with the IC) for a gen1 cluster for $150 on Autobahn Parts - Autobahn BMW & Porsche Parts Dismantler. They have gen2 as well in case you need it. You can buy the whole cluster with the IC or just the screen.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, the math is not on your side as this one will more than likely fail as well. The extra piece of glass that Tesla used on the Gen 1's and early Gen 2's fails, it is just a matter of time. The screens that we sell do not have the extra glass, so they will not bubble.
 
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#152
uscgreel said:
Unfortunately, the math is not on your side as this one will more than likely fail as well. The extra piece of glass that Tesla used on the Gen 1's and early Gen 2's fails, it is just a matter of time. The screens that we sell do not have the extra glass, so they will not bubble.
Click to expand...
Hi Uscgreel, I got a quote on reeldeal and could only buy the whole cluster (including IC) for $300. Let me know if it's possible to buy just the screen on reeldeal.
 
#153
BrettS said:
The part from reeldealev is not a Tesla part, so the IC version doesn’t really apply. It is just a screen and you use your existing IC driver board (which is what would be versioned anyway). Both the new screen and my original screen were made by LG and did indeed appear to be the same part.

View attachment 546784

As I said above, I was happy with my transaction with reeldealev and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them.
Click to expand...
@BrettS please let me know how much was this screen. Thanks
 
#155
If you're on the fence about doing the repair, go ahead and do it! I waited longer than I should have and was left with a bigger mess than if I had just replaced it when it first started. I used the earlier how-to videos and worked my way through one step at a time. I bought my LG Display from AliExpress (Seller HuaTaiJia Store) on 05/18/21 and it arrived 06/03/21. The cost to my door was $143. Its a bare display that you must swap your board onto.

www.aliexpress.com

139.99US $ |LA123WF1 SL01 12.3 inch LCD Display screen LA123WF1(SL)(01) For 2014 Tesla model s model x Car Instrument parts only lcd|Tablet LCDs & Panels| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com www.aliexpress.com
 

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#157
I believe it'll work fine. The glass came off pretty easy, just be careful not to crack it, I cleaned the goo off with ice cream sticks, lint free rags, and electronics parts cleaner. The goo is Nasty... glove up, don't touch anything, it stick to EVERYTHING! :^)
 
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#158
2014 MS84 AP1 with 102,000 miles. Never had bubbles until recently, and it was a small one in the upper right corner. And well dang. I was trying to remove the screen protector that Tesla installs., just because I thought it would be easy and fun. And well silly me. Cracked the whole screen. Thanks to uscgreel I have a replacement screen on order from RealDeal EV.

So, I heated up the edges and most of the screen lightly, and started to pry with my trim remover which is plastic.
All was going well then I heard the crack, but it sounded like the glue crackling and popping as I tried to pry slowly up the glass. So applied a little more heat. I kept going then I saw the large crack shoot across the whole screen. Then F***. See attached image.

MLqGUyh.jpg


Luckily I can still drive, even though the screen is a hot mess. I will just use my phone as speedo for now. AP works just fine. Everything works just fine.

Ill update when I replace the screen with the one from ReelDeal EV.

Also, great thread.
 
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