Replacing Model S front upper control arms

[CFinVancouver]

Model S 2015 85D with 103K kms
I have found the source of the clunking sound during low speed maneuver over uneven road surfaces. This seems to be the common issue for aging Model S/X car owners, similar spot to where the early model 3 suffers the squeaking.
Everything else seems intact with no excessive play evident. My front passenger side is the source, but I fear the driver's side is not too far behind. I am curious if this replacement is best done on both sides, preventing repeating the procedure months down the road?
This seems like an easy procedure on older cars.
Curious if there are 3rd party parts (non-performance versions), I would assume Tesla OEM parts are likely the cheapest. Hopefully there has been enough revisions that the part will last more than 100K kms. Also, anyone had luck ordering these through Tesla and actually finding them in stock?
Funny how we used to worry about how long the battery would last, only to find the suspension is a real Achilles tendon.
I can post a conking video if you so desire.

 

[Lukez]

Model S 2015 85D with 103K kms
I have found the source of the clunking sound during low speed maneuver over uneven road surfaces. This seems to be the common issue for aging Model S/X car owners, similar spot to where the early model 3 suffers the squeaking.
Everything else seems intact with no excessive play evident. My front passenger side is the source, but I fear the driver's side is not too far behind. I am curious if this replacement is best done on both sides, preventing repeating the procedure months down the road?
This seems like an easy procedure on older cars.
Curious if there are 3rd party parts (non-performance versions), I would assume Tesla OEM parts are likely the cheapest. Hopefully there has been enough revisions that the part will last more than 100K kms. Also, anyone had luck ordering these through Tesla and actually finding them in stock?
Funny how we used to worry about how long the battery would last, only to find the suspension is a real Achilles tendon.
I can post a conking video if you so desire.

Having recently done this I can tell you to do both even though it's a pain in the butt on the passenger side. It is also very likely the rest of your control arms (and links) in the front are already or will be bad in the near future, be prepared to do those. Also be prepared that what you change isn't actually where the sound is, that its a different control arm (or stab bar link) and you will be chasing one by one.
I'd actually recommend doing them all, including the links, and getting one alignment done instead of waiting but that's your call.

Aftermarket parts do exist and they are much much cheaper than tesla. The ones I got looked identical, hard to tell if they are better or worse.
Do a google search and cross shop. Rock Auto tends to have the best prices but cross shop with some other sites.

 

[CFinVancouver]

I looked at Rockauto as suggested. There are various brands, one European, one from the US and one from Canada. The Canadian manufacturer also shows a bolt on upper ball joint if you want to drill out the existing rivets in the stock arm. This is an interesting idea. Just replacing the ball joint is cheap.
Most issues with Rockauto seem to be variations in shipping costs and trying to return products.

 

[Lukez]

I looked at Rockauto as suggested. There are various brands, one European, one from the US and one from Canada. The Canadian manufacturer also shows a bolt on upper ball joint if you want to drill out the existing rivets in the stock arm. This is an interesting idea. Just replacing the ball joint is cheap.
Most issues with Rockauto seem to be variations in shipping costs and trying to return products.

Agreed but no reason to return if you need to do it. Also tesla won't take returns on some parts, not sure about suspension parts. But cross shop with other sites, rock auto not always the best pricing.

When doing the uppers, the pinch bolt is a bear to remove. Almost hard to believe how hard it is. The trick is to heat the knuckle aluminum part a lot, like torch it or hold a heat gun to it for 5-10 minutes and spray deep creep into it. Then hammer the snot out of it. Prepare to curse a lot.

Also replacing just the ball joint on the passenger side would be awesome, driver side isn't too bad to take off the whole arm.

 

[CFinVancouver]

Great advice on the control arm disassembly, likely just replace the whole thing.
What on the passenger side makes it so difficult? Have not been in there closely, just perused the shop manual. Hopefully no cutting bolts involved.

 

[Lukez]

Great advice on the control arm disassembly, likely just replace the whole thing.
What on the passenger side makes it so difficult? Have not been in there closely, just perused the shop manual. Hopefully no cutting bolts involved.

No cutting bolts but a lot of disassembly and removing the 12v battery, unless your 12v is in a different location? I'm not sure when/if they move the 12v battery location.
Grab yourself the service manual (google it, plenty of free copies online).

 

[CFinVancouver]

Feeling like ranting...I went into Tesla service here to ask about the parts, I find in easier and faster to pop in because I work nearby. Turns out they only have the left in stock, 4 to 6 weeks before new ones will arrive, and they have a car that has been sitting there for a month waiting for the same part. To add insult to injury, the parts alone are about 350CDN each!
Same morning I started chatting about cross border parts ordering and shipping/taxes/duty with our regular FedEx delivery guy at my office. He went on to use Rockauto as an example of one of the few companies that get that process correct and that he has ordered parts regularly from them. Small world. I'll take it as a sign and order parts from them.

 

[Decibelle]

Feeling like ranting...I went into Tesla service here to ask about the parts, I find in easier and faster to pop in because I work nearby. Turns out they only have the left in stock, 4 to 6 weeks before new ones will arrive, and they have a car that has been sitting there for a month waiting for the same part. To add insult to injury, the parts alone are about 350CDN each!
Same morning I started chatting about cross border parts ordering and shipping/taxes/duty with our regular FedEx delivery guy at my office. He went on to use Rockauto as an example of one of the few companies that get that process correct and that he has ordered parts regularly from them. Small world. I'll take it as a sign and order parts from them.

I have had good experience with Rock Auto including returning a part that broke down within the warranty period.

 

[gordinvan]

It's always the passenger side upper control arm because you always go faster on a left turn in the city then you do on the right. It was CAD$1800 with parts, labor, four-wheel alignment and taxes a year ago. A 2011 Nissan Leaf for exactly the same repair was $1200 without taxes and alignment.

 

[CFinVancouver]

Replaced both FUCAs with parts from Rockauto. Just shy of 300CDN taxes and delivery included. Took a few hours, I found I did need to undo at the least back half of the wheel liners. There is an annoying basket on the passenger side which would not allow the rear bolt to drop back far enough to be removed easily. Totally doable yourself, I could probably replace the pair in half the time next time.

 

[Justwn]

Replaced both FUCAs with parts from Rockauto. Just shy of 300CDN taxes and delivery included. Took a few hours, I found I did need to undo at the least back half of the wheel liners. There is an annoying basket on the passenger side which would not allow the rear bolt to drop back far enough to be removed easily. Totally doable yourself, I could probably replace the pair in half the time next time.

Sorry to bump an old thread, just wondering if you’d would have any steps or tips for the passenger FUCA replacement? I’m also in Vancouver and had a ball joint separation yesterday. Looking to work on it tomorrow. I’ve heard mentions in various videos about that rear back bolt so I'm wondering how to go about it (aka if a reciprocating saw, angle grinder is needed)

 

[CFinVancouver]

Sorry to bump an old thread, just wondering if you’d would have any steps or tips for the passenger FUCA replacement? I’m also in Vancouver and had a ball joint separation yesterday. Looking to work on it tomorrow. I’ve heard mentions in various videos about that rear back bolt so I'm wondering how to go about it (aka if a reciprocating saw, angle grinder is needed)

If I remember correctly, the passenger side has some basket that was in the way. I was able to bend it with some vise grips out of the way without cutting in tight space. It is thin metal and will tear back fairly easily.