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Replacing Onboard Charger Gen3 2017 MS75D...My Experience (With Photos)
- Thread starter dbldwn02
- Start date
Yea, that wasn't available to normies when I posted this way back when. I'd like to think they plagiarized my work. Lol
You think it's ok for us just to post the pdf here? Not sure if it's against the rules or not.
Made an account to say that your post was immensely useful, thank you. I would not have attempted to try this had it not been for your trial and error. I want to also to share my experience in case other people run into the same problems or are trying to diagnose their charger.
Specs:
2019 Model S 75D, May build. Charger failing at 80k miles. Almost always charged at home since new.
Charger: 1052532-00-D REV01 >ADC12< 113492 XS 2-1
Ebay car's charger was from a wrecked 2018 S 75D
Symptoms:
- Began charging at only 24 amps out of 48. My utility company has a tool that lets me monitor energy usage per hour, and the charging speed halved at about 1-2 hrs into a 5 hour charging session.
- Supercharging initially unaffected. Tried a supercharger during the first week I noticed it failing, and it charged at a rate typical for my SOC for about 10 minutes before I unplugged it.
- Tried supercharging about two weeks later, and the car refused to. Received errors CHG_w063 and CHG_w062, and car told me service required. This was the first time I saw any errors on my dash.
- Day after that, when leaning on the rear seat to pick something up from the back, the area on the rear seat directly above where the charger sits was hot. I had not driven it for about half an hour and the car was not plugged in. Checked periodically after that and it was the only time I noticed that area warm.
My differences in experience:
- In step 20: For the black retaining clips, I found it easier to unbolt the charger from the chassis first, undo the whole top cover of the old onboard charger (which has a lip that prevents good access to the clip), and then positioned the charger up just a bit while it was still connected to the coolant lines to get better access to the bottom part of the clips to remove them. I put the top cover on the bad charger back on to protect it from coolant spill from step 25 just in case my donor car's charger was bad.
- My 12v battery during the software update couldn't sustain a charge long enough to finish the update. My screens would go to black, and noticed that the door handle motors were a bit weaker. Ended up borrowing a friend's truck and kept my car's 12v connected to his with a jumper cable until the update was completed. I haven't changed my battery since new, so I'll have to replace that.
- The repair was initially successful, but would stop charging after about 10 minutes, with the error CHG_f099_noFlowDetected, and another message saying the charger was overheating, and to unplug and try again. I figured it was air in the coolant lines. I kept initiating charging, ran some accessories like the heater and a/c to hopefully get more coolant pumping, and topped off the coolant. After babysitting it for an hour and restarting the charging about 5 times, enough air left the system, and the car has been charging normally since -- about 3 days now for hours at a time on the full 48 amps. Also tried supercharging, and that also works now!
Total repair time with help from a friend was about 7 hours, about 1/3 of that was figuring out I needed more 12v support to get the software update completed. I recommend removing the rear seat before attempting the full repair or ordering the part to see what charger version you have to avoid potential problems, this is not something I would be happy doing twice.
This community is incredible. Thank you!
Thanks to dbldwn02 for his work and all the other people here. My situation is a bit different but still want to seek advice here.
I moved to Spain and brought my 2015 S with me for relatively low mileage free SC and overall very good shape. All the EU mods were completed but somehow along the way the phase 1 on the master charger failed (this makes it impossible to charge at 220V outlet or monophasic wall charger). Could be during the mods or just because it was the time. Tesla in Spain refuses to work on US cars that were modified (they don't do the mods so is BS), on charging issues, everything else they would service. They would also sell me the gen 2 charger. Looking at this and having computer engineering background, I could probably do it, however honestly I'm hesitant as I would not be able to go anywhere if the car is bricked. Ideally I would like to change the fuses in the gen 2 charger to avoid messing with everything else. Also I was under the impression that the charger will have to be programmed as master no?
I spent countless hours searching on how to replace the fuses in the gen 2 charger, however I could not find anything, even though everyone says you could (including dbldwn02). To add to the frustration I have seen a gen 2 open and all is glued in, was not sure what could be done or where the fuses were. Also searched for a place to do it for me but couldn't find anything in Spain.
Anyone could offer advice please?
Thanks!
I moved to Spain and brought my 2015 S with me for relatively low mileage free SC and overall very good shape. All the EU mods were completed but somehow along the way the phase 1 on the master charger failed (this makes it impossible to charge at 220V outlet or monophasic wall charger). Could be during the mods or just because it was the time. Tesla in Spain refuses to work on US cars that were modified (they don't do the mods so is BS), on charging issues, everything else they would service. They would also sell me the gen 2 charger. Looking at this and having computer engineering background, I could probably do it, however honestly I'm hesitant as I would not be able to go anywhere if the car is bricked. Ideally I would like to change the fuses in the gen 2 charger to avoid messing with everything else. Also I was under the impression that the charger will have to be programmed as master no?
I spent countless hours searching on how to replace the fuses in the gen 2 charger, however I could not find anything, even though everyone says you could (including dbldwn02). To add to the frustration I have seen a gen 2 open and all is glued in, was not sure what could be done or where the fuses were. Also searched for a place to do it for me but couldn't find anything in Spain.
Anyone could offer advice please?
Thanks!
Yea, pictures are worth 10,000 words when dealing with Tesla chargers. Haha.
Hopefully we can get you back up and running.
Also, what fault codes is it throwing.
That's a gen 3 charger. What's the part number on the lid? Looks exactly like mine. 2017 MS.
No fuses to replace. You went way farther than I did. It just sounds like one of the three modules is bad. I don't ok now anyone who has replaced a module.
No fuses to replace. You went way farther than I did. It just sounds like one of the three modules is bad. I don't ok now anyone who has replaced a module.
It looks exactly like the inside of my gen3 charger. If you provide a pic of the lid or a part # of the unit you have (not the unit Tesla says you have) I could tell you for sure.
I can say for sure you don't have user replaceable fuses so you can give up finding those. Also Tesla doesn't replace fuses. They usually replace the whole charger and send it back to the factory for refurb.
The two 50amp fuses in gen2 are very easy to get to.
I just spoke with the guy who made the EU mods. He confirmed is gen 2 what i posted and what I have. What fuses I need model etc? I cannot stand Tesla for refusing to work on my car, and I have been supporting them since 2014. I still do although my respect goes to Tesla to all people working there not just one guy…
Yup. You're in a tough spot.
You just need to order another charger with the same part #. Follow my instructions in post #1 and you'll be fine.
There are YouTube videos on getting to the gen 2 charger fuses.
Also wanted to say the OP helped me. I too had my 12v run out and needed to sit it on a tender over night and then I had to get all the bubbles out of the coolant else it would stop charging randomly at different intervals (longest charge first thing each morning).
teslamotorsclub.com
Also wanted to say the OP helped me. I too had my 12v run out and needed to sit it on a tender over night and then I had to get all the bubbles out of the coolant else it would stop charging randomly at different intervals (longest charge first thing each morning).
Faulty Onboard Gen 3 Charger
Six months ago my MS 75D started charging at half the speed on a wall charger, it would only go up to 24 amps instead of 48. Yesterday it stopped charging entirely - it would charge a mile or so, drop to 23 amps and then eventually to zero. It would happen 3 or 4 times and then error out. I...
teslamotorsclub.com
I don’t think those videos are for gen 2, found out they were all about gen1.There are YouTube videos on getting to the gen 2 charger fuses.
Also wanted to say the OP helped me. I too had my 12v run out and needed to sit it on a tender over night and then I had to get all the bubbles out of the coolant else it would stop charging randomly at different intervals (longest charge first thing each morning).
Faulty Onboard Gen 3 Charger
Six months ago my MS 75D started charging at half the speed on a wall charger, it would only go up to 24 amps instead of 48. Yesterday it stopped charging entirely - it would charge a mile or so, drop to 23 amps and then eventually to zero. It would happen 3 or 4 times and then error out. I...
tldr: If you posted photos of the outside we would have been able to tell you it was Gen2. Your internals look exactly the same as a Gen3, which has no 50amp fuses in them. Buy a new charger and be done with it.
When I google "Tesla Gen 2 Onboard" charger, I get these results...These don't have the fuses.
This is probably what you have but your internals look exactly the same as a Gen 3. You only posted internal photos so that's why everyone thought Gen3. While you may be able to figure out which charging bank is bad, I don't know if replacing one bank is going to work. Maybe if you got another doner charger with exactly the same PN and firmware, but at that point, why not just replace the charger itself. It's like $300-500 on ebay.
Hell...here's one for $400, Brand New in Packaging.
When I Google "Tesla Gen 3 Onboard Charger", I get this...which is exactly what my 2017MS charger looks like
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