replacing repeater cams on model 3?

[crackers8199]

all of the videos / tutorials i've seen on youtube and unofficial tesla forums seem to indicate that you have to go in through the wheel well to pop the camera out (including some people who say that's how the tesla mobile service did the replacement), but the official tesla service guide has a video showing them just popping it out with a pry tool from the front and never opening up the wheel well.

has anyone done it this way? is there any reason to open the wheel well up if i don't have to?

 

[Shelburne]

A few weeks after picking up my 2020 M3, the camera on the left front fender stopped working. A mobile tech came to replace it and yes, he used some sort pry tool to pop it out of the fender's sheet metal. I didn't get a good look at the tool so I can't describe it for you but I would be very careful about scratching the paint in that area. I assume your car is out of warranty but if not, why not have a mobile tech do the job?

 

[crackers8199]

A few weeks after picking up my 2020 M3, the camera on the left front fender stopped working. A mobile tech came to replace it and yes, he used some sort pry tool to pop it out of the fender's sheet metal. I didn't get a good look at the tool so I can't describe it for you but I would be very careful about scratching the paint in that area. I assume your car is out of warranty but if not, why not have a mobile tech do the job?

I got the two cameras on eBay for $160 shipped. I don't see any reason to pay an extra $50 per camera plus another $100 for the install for such an easy swap.

 

[adayley]

I have not done work on the exterior of my car, thankfully. But, if I were to attempt what you want, @crackers8199, I would get a spudger. I have this one for when I replaced the interior and puddle lights: Spudger (Trim Removal Tool)

 

[MrFusion4]

i've tried to remove it myself without that tool and it was a pain to do, i actually broke the camera doing so. If you can do it then all the power to you

 

[S&B's M3]

I got the two cameras on eBay for $160 shipped. I don't see any reason to pay an extra $50 per camera plus another $100 for the install for such an easy swap.

Were the cameras the new type within the holes that affect the blind spot image? If so, what was the part number(s)?

 

[crackers8199]

I have not done work on the exterior of my car, thankfully. But, if I were to attempt what you want, @crackers8199, I would get a spudger. I have this one for when I replaced the interior and puddle lights: Spudger (Trim Removal Tool)

yup, I have several trim removal tools ready along with masking tape to protect the paint. I'll probably open the wheel well up just to try to give myself some extra leverage, but I was curious if anyone has done it without doing that since it is obviously much less work (I won't say easier because I haven't tried yet).

Were the cameras the new type within the holes that affect the blind spot image? If so, what was the part number(s)?

1495864-20-D
1495865-20-D

 

[MrFusion4]

Tesla service recently replaced my side repeaters and front camera. I can confirm that the repeaters are the new ones since i dont get the glare from the turn signals anymore

 

[S&B's M3]

yup, I have several trim removal tools ready along with masking tape to protect the paint. I'll probably open the wheel well up just to try to give myself some extra leverage, but I was curious if anyone has done it without doing that since it is obviously much less work (I won't say easier because I haven't tried yet).



1495864-20-D
1495865-20-D

Thanks..

 

[stopcrazypp]

yup, I have several trim removal tools ready along with masking tape to protect the paint. I'll probably open the wheel well up just to try to give myself some extra leverage, but I was curious if anyone has done it without doing that since it is obviously much less work (I won't say easier because I haven't tried yet).



1495864-20-D
1495865-20-D

You don't save any significant work from avoiding the wheel well. The wheel well clips are easy to pop open with a flat head (they look like below, just use screw driver to pry up the middle circle in the two obvious pry areas):

Zoro Select 1860PK $7.56 Retainer, Round Head, 8 mm Dia., 20 mm L, Nylon Body, 25 PK | Zoro.com

You may still break the clips on the camera even if going from behind, in the front you are even more likely to break them. I have seen others that looked at it say even the Tesla guys break the clips on the old camera, so maybe they go from the front if they assume they won't salvage the old cameras anyways.

 

[crackers8199]

You don't save any significant work from avoiding the wheel well. The wheel well clips are easy to pop open with a flat head (they look like below, just use screw driver to pry up the middle circle in the two obvious pry areas):

Zoro Select 1860PK $7.56 Retainer, Round Head, 8 mm Dia., 20 mm L, Nylon Body, 25 PK | Zoro.com

You may still break the clips on the camera even if going from behind, in the front you are even more likely to break them. I have seen others that looked at it say even the Tesla guys break the clips on the old camera, so maybe they go from the front if they assume they won't salvage the old cameras anyways.

fair enough. i know it's easy to pop the clips out, just figured i'd save time if it's not necessary...but i guess it won't hurt to just open it up.

 

[stopcrazypp]

fair enough. i know it's easy to pop the clips out, just figured i'd save time if it's not necessary...but i guess it won't hurt to just open it up.

I guess it depends on if you want to salvage the old cameras and sell them. If you don't intended to save them, you can go from the front and just break the clips on the old cameras (still remember to tape the edges of bodywork around camera to avoid scratching your paint using whatever pry tool you are using).

But even going behind, getting the clips to release is very difficult. You have to do it all by feel reaching your hand behind the wheel well (as you should have seen on the youtube videos).
Here's some pictures from eBay listings.

These two clips on the bottom and side you are likely to break if you don't release them in the right way (I broke one of them in removing the cameras for PPF, I just superglued it back):

These two tabs on the top you are likely to chip (as they are in this listing, I chipped one of them on one camera myself when I did mine):

Tesla Model 3 Y passenger side Repeater Fender Camera Black 1125107-50-g | eBay

You can see in other listings for example both bottom and side clips broken, which indicates how easy they are to break when removing the camera:

Tesla Model 3 Fender Lamp Repeater Camera Left 1495866 or Right 1495867 | eBay

 

[crackers8199]

I guess it depends on if you want to salvage the old cameras and sell them. If you don't intended to save them, you can go from the front and just break the clips on the old cameras (still remember to tape the edges of bodywork around camera to avoid scratching your paint using whatever pry tool you are using).

But even going behind, getting the clips to release is very difficult. You have to do it all by feel reaching your hand behind the wheel well (as you should have seen on the youtube videos).
Here's some pictures from eBay listings.

These two clips on the bottom and side you are likely to break if you don't release them in the right way (I broke one of them in removing the cameras for PPF, I just superglued it back):

These two tabs on the top you are likely to chip (as they are in this listing, I chipped one of them on one camera myself when I did mine):

Tesla Model 3 Y passenger side Repeater Fender Camera Black 1125107-50-g | eBay

You can see in other listings for example both bottom and side clips broken, which indicates how easy they are to break when removing the camera:

Tesla Model 3 Fender Lamp Repeater Camera Left 1495866 or Right 1495867 | eBay

yeah, i can't get the damn thing to release even from going in thru the wheel well. ugh. i should have known better than to think this would be as easy as it looks on the videos...

 

[Shmoe]

yeah, i can't get the damn thing to release even from going in thru the wheel well. ugh. i should have known better than to think this would be as easy as it looks on the videos...

Getting ready to do this myself, not feeling inspired here

 

[crackers8199]

Getting ready to do this myself, not feeling inspired here

i've watched more videos and i think i have a bit of a better handle on what exactly needs to be done, but i'm going on a road trip this weekend and don't want to risk breaking it and losing autopilot...so i'm going to wait until next week to give it another shot.

it seems like the key is to try to push the two bottom clips just enough to nudge them under the fender, and then get a squeegee in on the top to release those top two. if you get it right, it should just pop out without breaking the clips.

here are two videos i've watched that led me to that idea (one is for the S/X, but same general idea)...